ams511
Contributor
I did it too but luckily it was on a Sherwood so I only needed to flip the seat.
My *new* old Scubapro 109
- Thread starter uncfnp
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I did it too but luckily it was on a Sherwood so I only needed to flip the seat.
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OP
uncfnp
Solo Diver
My typical modus operandi to new experiences is to jump right into the middle of things, mess around a bit, see what happens and learn from my mistakes. Clearly I need to change that approach when it comes to scuba gear and "lifesupport equipment." 
Disassembled the stage, soaked in hot dish liquid solution and inspected. The lever looks to be the middle on couv's photo from the other threads with the narrower feet but not curved. The end of the adjustment knob appears pitted under a magnifier, feels smooth when I run a finger across it but catches if I use a sharp edge. The balance chamber has a small rough area at the base but the poppet seems fine. And yes, the LP seat has a very fine groove in it from the oriface. The oriface itself seems smooth visually and by touch.
So is the groove enough to need a new seat and if so can I buy separately or does it mean a whole new poppet? Any other suggestions?
Disassembled the stage, soaked in hot dish liquid solution and inspected. The lever looks to be the middle on couv's photo from the other threads with the narrower feet but not curved. The end of the adjustment knob appears pitted under a magnifier, feels smooth when I run a finger across it but catches if I use a sharp edge. The balance chamber has a small rough area at the base but the poppet seems fine. And yes, the LP seat has a very fine groove in it from the oriface. The oriface itself seems smooth visually and by touch.
So is the groove enough to need a new seat and if so can I buy separately or does it mean a whole new poppet? Any other suggestions?
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halocline
Contributor
The lever/poppet issue has to do with the shape and angle of the feet on the lever and how they match up with the tabs on the poppet. This determines the lever height at a given orifice adjustment and also the 'action' of the lever pushing the poppet. Related to this is the condition of the square holes in the air barrel that holds the ends of the feet on the lever.
I can't open your photos, it says "invalid attachment" but I can tell you that the end of the adjustment knob and the base of the balance chamber simply press against each other and there's no need to worry if there's a bit of roughness, it won't make any difference.
Don't worry about a slight imprint on the seat. That's what happens as soon as you use the regulator for a few dives. You can purchase the seats separately; there's a SP part number for the seat if you can get a friendly dealer to sell them, and trident makes a generic version that fits fine.
What you're going to have to do, probably, is determine whether or not you have the correct lever height at your optimal orifice adjustment without the diaphragm in place, meaning as far 'out' as the orifice can go before freeflow. Then you put the diaphragm in and see if this causes the reg to free flow, or if there is significant play between the lever and diaphragm. Either way you have a lever/poppet compatibility problem. A very slight freeflow that you can adjust out with 1/8-1/4 turn is ok, anything more and you'll be compromising performance too much (for my tastes, anyway)
Herman makes a tool to adjust the angle of the feet, but that's probably a bit more hit-or-miss for your first one of these. The new G250 lever with the curved feet has always worked perfectly for me.
That whole bit was about the lever height/feet angle. About the 'action' of the feet against the poppet, what you can do is make sure there are no burrs at all on the feet (you'll need a magnifying glass) and use a very fine, small file to clean up any wear in the corner of those square holes (air barrel). Both of these jobs are to make sure that when the lever gets pushed by the diaphragm, the feet smoothly move the poppet with no stickiness or catching. Sometimes you also have lever-feet that are spread a bit too widely apart and don't ride smoothly on the poppet. I've even seen one slip off the poppet, which means the regulator does not open and supply air. That's not too good underwater.... Both of these problems are solved with the curved-feet lever.
I can't open your photos, it says "invalid attachment" but I can tell you that the end of the adjustment knob and the base of the balance chamber simply press against each other and there's no need to worry if there's a bit of roughness, it won't make any difference.
Don't worry about a slight imprint on the seat. That's what happens as soon as you use the regulator for a few dives. You can purchase the seats separately; there's a SP part number for the seat if you can get a friendly dealer to sell them, and trident makes a generic version that fits fine.
What you're going to have to do, probably, is determine whether or not you have the correct lever height at your optimal orifice adjustment without the diaphragm in place, meaning as far 'out' as the orifice can go before freeflow. Then you put the diaphragm in and see if this causes the reg to free flow, or if there is significant play between the lever and diaphragm. Either way you have a lever/poppet compatibility problem. A very slight freeflow that you can adjust out with 1/8-1/4 turn is ok, anything more and you'll be compromising performance too much (for my tastes, anyway)
Herman makes a tool to adjust the angle of the feet, but that's probably a bit more hit-or-miss for your first one of these. The new G250 lever with the curved feet has always worked perfectly for me.
That whole bit was about the lever height/feet angle. About the 'action' of the feet against the poppet, what you can do is make sure there are no burrs at all on the feet (you'll need a magnifying glass) and use a very fine, small file to clean up any wear in the corner of those square holes (air barrel). Both of these jobs are to make sure that when the lever gets pushed by the diaphragm, the feet smoothly move the poppet with no stickiness or catching. Sometimes you also have lever-feet that are spread a bit too widely apart and don't ride smoothly on the poppet. I've even seen one slip off the poppet, which means the regulator does not open and supply air. That's not too good underwater.... Both of these problems are solved with the curved-feet lever.
Something looks strange to me in the photo of the poppet you posted. It may be the angle of the photo but your poppet does not look like any Scubapro poppet I have seen. Second, if it is some type of 109 poppet it should not have the hole in the middle of the seat. The only Scubapro poppet I have seen with a seat like yours is the old metal stemmed balanced adjustable poppet with a brass rivet holding the seat in place. You might want to post a side view of your poppet so the experts can confirm that it is Scubapro.
OP
uncfnp
Solo Diver
halocline. Thanks. I checked the lever feet, very smooth. There does seem to be some wear on the corners on the barrel so will look for a fine file tomorrow and smooth them out. I also have a curved foot lever on my eBay watch list. I hope to get it all back together tomorrow and run through the procedure you outlined but think I might just order that other lever anyway.
Notsure and OWIC647. The poppet is from the VDH 109 balanced adjustable conversion kit...
Notsure and OWIC647. The poppet is from the VDH 109 balanced adjustable conversion kit...
I sold it..It's correct. Poppet and balance chamber are factory Scubapro. Spring that came with the kit would be as well. Seat is aftermarket to OEM specs.
It must have been the angle of the photo because your poppet does appear to be correct. The seat still looks a little strange to me but I doubt that is your issue. I have never had the lever you picture not work on a BA, but it is possibe that the feet are bent incorrectly.
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