Length of the 24" SPG hose

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That said, variations of more than a couple of inches are usually an indication that something else is not right with the equipment configuration.

Yeah 24" is a good place to start. You'd need to be a serious giant to use >26" and a midget to used <22". If 24" is totally unworkable something else is probably wrong and its cascading through your choices. The chance of ending up needing to use a borrowed reg with 24" cause something on your own reg broke is not zero once you're diving alot.

Bringing the SPG over the arm was actually taught in my Fundies. The principle of primacy has served me well.
 
That said, variations of more than a couple of inches are usually an indication that something else is not right with the equipment configuration.

Exactly. WHen starting out, especially if no mentors are handy, it can be very tempting to conclude that a longer hose (or whatever) is the solution rather than a minor change in the way something is done or rigged up.
 
Yeah 24" is a good place to start. You'd need to be a serious giant to use >26" and a midget to used <22".
Actually, if the gear is set up properly, then there should not be that much deviation in hose length based on height. The distance from the upper cam strap to the left hip D-ring is fixed, and should be fairly uniform for most divers. If the cam strap is mounted where it should be on the tank (just below the shoulder), then it's going to put the first stage in about the same spot (relative to the strap) for most people. So the distance between the two should be pretty close to 24", which is why that hose length is recommended.

I hate the 24" SPG hose. I dive a 26" with my single 130 rigs.

A longer SPG hose may be required for a singles vs a doubles rig, since the single tank places the first stage farther away from the attachment point at the hip (same reasoning that a longer backup hose may be required for doubles vs singles).

And FWIW, I'm 6'1", and the 24" inch hose works fine for me.
 
Actually, if the gear is set up properly, then there should not be that much deviation in hose length based on height. The distance from the upper cam strap to the left hip D-ring is fixed, and should be fairly uniform for most divers. If the cam strap is mounted where it should be on the tank (just below the shoulder), then it's going to put the first stage in about the same spot (relative to the strap) for most people. So the distance between the two should be pretty close to 24", which is why that hose length is recommended.

With the advent of "long" and "short" plates I'm not so sure this is as fixed a distance as its been historically. I don't really know though since I have been diving the same plate since about 2001-2 and it predates some of the various modern refinements.
 
That said, variations of more than a couple of inches are usually an indication that something else is not right with the equipment configuration.

Thanks. That's what I am worried about, so before I swap the hoses I am going to dive a bit and check out whether I am messing something else up. For instance, perhaps I am pushing my single tank up too high on the rig? or maybe I have the SPG set-up in the wrong spot on the first stage or my first stage is just positioned incorrectly. As much as I'd just lke to go and swap to a longer hose, I guess I better evaluate everything else on my rig. If everything else in the equipment configuration checks out, then I'll swap to a longer hose. I am obviously new to this type of configuration, so I appreciate the feedback and the responses.
 
With the advent of "long" and "short" plates I'm not so sure this is as fixed a distance as its been historically. I don't really know though since I have been diving the same plate since about 2001-2 and it predates some of the various modern refinements.
I've been diving the same plate since 1996, so I probably know less about it than you do - that will not stop me from offering an opinion, though. :wink:

Even with "non-standard" plates, the bolt spacing and placement of the cam straps or bands should be the same, relative to the location of the valves and first stage. The only thing that might change is the location of the lower slots, relative to the bottom bolt hole. It should be possible to construct a non-standard backplate where even that dimension does not change, but I don't know if the manufacturers take that kind of thing into account when they design them.

I still think the best option is to start with the recommended standard hose length, and then dive it for a while before considering a change. It's always important to remember that in DIR, "every piece of equipment is a team resource", and when you make a modification (even a seemingly minor one), it can have potential ramifications on your teammates (for example, limiting interchangeability of equipment, or putting something in a non-standard location). It's always best to make sure that you are deviating from the standard config for the right reasons, and not because of some supposed issue that you are actually creating for yourself.

In my experience, most (initial) difficulties with the DIR config are simply the result of unfamiliarity with it, and most new-to-DIR divers are able to make the switch after a few "adjustment" dives.
 
How do you actually do that... the logistics of it are lost on me

This is far simpler than it sounds in writing. When you unclip the SPG raise it out from your body rather than tucking it towards you chest and pulling it up. You don't actually have to do this since it will happen this way if you don't try to bring it straight up to your chest, but think about pushing your elbow under the hose and then raising it to view. This gives you plenty of hose rather than forcing the hose under your arm and then up. Also, think about how you would bring the SPG up if there was a stage on your left side by swinging around the stages and causing the hose to go over rather than under your arm.

The talk about needing special size hoses and backplates always cracks me up since you really do have to be extremely abnormally sized in the torso to actually need this and there just isn't a significant portion of the diving population this applies to so the answer 99% of the time is, the exceptions don't apply to you, fix the skill issue.
 
How do you actually do that... the logistics of it are lost on me

Tuck the elbow in then rotate wrist clockwise. Brings the hose outside the elbow then it all just falls over the deltoid area on the shoulder. Take GUE-F and all will be explained.

Really its a lot easier than it sounds to bring the spg outside the elbow. In tech diving you got stage(s) over there and you gotta bring it around them anyway. In cave diving you really need to bring the spg to the light not the other way around. Honestly it was a 2 dive fix for me after being told the "right way" in DIRF with Joe T.

As I mentioned earlier its no big deal in OW recreational diving (although reaching back with your lighthead still in your left hand is definately annoying). But DIR is all about learning the right way so you can seamlessly upsize your diving and not have to relearn different equipment, skills, or protocols.
 
Well stated, RJack.

My understanding is the "SPG over, arm extension" method is taught to facilitate the use of reading the SPG with stage / deco bottles clogging up the left side.

Diving a single tank, with no stage, no bottles and most of the time a large camera rig hanging off the left chest D-ring, I've found the arm out flail method is just so much silly flapping when I can just flick the wrist and take a look at my gas.

---
Ken
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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