Laziness, complacency or is it just me?

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True wrt 300 - 300 are deeper than 200s, by a lot. If youre diving 4500psi tanks, then 300DINs are required, and no pro convertable exists that I know of....

The 300 bar DIN valves have no greater pressure handling than do the 200 bar valves, and actually the 300 bar valves are not as durable. The only reason for the 300/200 different valves was to keep regulators not rated for high pressure off HP tanks. Now-a-days, all regulator DIN fittings are 300 bar fittings, at least as far as I'm aware of.

There is absolutely no reason on earth to buy 300 bar DIN tank valves unless they are significantly cheaper than the 200 bar convertible valves.
 
I role with din regs and carry my own O-rings.
If I am on a dive using a converter then I will carry my own O-rings as well.
I am not a big fan of DM switching my tanks nor touching any of my gear.
I was trained to keep my gear tight and clean and pick up after myself.
My instructors both REC and TECH have been clear on these issues.

You are responsible for taking care of your gear and have the option to call any dive you are not comfortable or prepared for.
This includes gas leaks, etc.
If you know the leak is there fix that simple.
Sherwood Bliz's trickle is annoying at depth if you are not aware of it's design.

CamG
 
The 300 bar DIN valves have no greater pressure handling than do the 200 bar valves, and actually the 300 bar valves are not as durable. The only reason for the 300/200 different valves was to keep regulators not rated for high pressure off HP tanks. Now-a-days, all regulator DIN fittings are 300 bar fittings, at least as far as I'm aware of.

There is absolutely no reason on earth to buy 300 bar DIN tank valves unless they are significantly cheaper than the 200 bar convertible valves.

I would respectively disagree with that. The additional threads do provide extra holding capacity for the valve-regulator fit. And for divers using HP tanks, or LP tanks with "cave-fills," a 300 bar valve provides a measure of security that a 200 or 250 bar valve does not provide, and ensures that a yoke valve cannot be fitted to a HP tank with an adapter.

I've had my tanks filled to 4000psi in cave country, well above the rated pressure for a 200 or 250 bar valve.
 
People often comment that I stream bubbles behind me when I dive. I don't know how they can see that since I dive solo 95% of the time. I dive DIN so I'm not too worried about o-ring leakage. However, it can indicate a possibility of future failure which can be a problem if you are at depth. Likewise with some of the leaks on my gear, but the vast majority of my dives are well within CESA range if I'm not carrying my pony. If I were doing deep dives (160-200 fsw) like I was a few years ago, I'd e much more cautious about such leaks.
 
I have 2 DIN regs, love them, however I have found that when traveling it is much easier to find yolks than DINs, therefore I travel with my yolk set up. When I call ahead before traveling to ask about DIN valves I usually get a "no" or "we have a few".

Just a minor point, but it's "yoke", not "yolk". It's called that because of the frame that's connected to the working part of the regulator, which goes around the valve.

A "yolk" is the part of an egg that provides nutrition for the developing embryo ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

---------- Post added April 15th, 2014 at 09:31 AM ----------

I have yet to see a DIN in real life being used.

Nine of my eleven regulators are DIN. I have an old MK10 that I use in the pool and a MK16 that I use for travel that are yoke. All of my tanks have Thermo Pro valves on them that can be used with either DIN or yoke regs.

That's fairly standard where I live, except that I don't think most folks own 11 regulators ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

---------- Post added April 15th, 2014 at 09:43 AM ----------

Curiosity: will the inserts I have for my pro valves work with any DIN valve? I don't see any logical reason why not, but you never know...

No ... they work with 200 bar valves, which have five threads and not with 300 bar valves, which have seven.

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

---------- Post added April 15th, 2014 at 09:46 AM ----------

People often comment that I stream bubbles behind me when I dive.

... perhaps you should consider getting a drysuit ... :wink:

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
 
People often comment that I stream bubbles behind me when I dive.


Yeah, I've received a few comments about that too.
The only thing is that I usually only have board shorts around the area that is "streaming."
But hey, that's better than streaming yellow, right?
 
People often comment that I stream bubbles behind me when I dive.
You can fix this by not stopping at Taco Bell for a bean burrito on your way to the dive site.




:D
 
I have 2 reg sets a SR1 and a MK25. Both are yoke. The majority of your dives are far more difficult than mine. Caribbean diving is different from your usual dives.........I haven't seen a DIN set.

Nine of my eleven regulators are DIN. I have an old MK10 that I use in the pool and a MK16 that I use for travel that are yoke. All of my tanks have Thermo Pro valves on them that can be used with either DIN or yoke regs.

That's fairly standard where I live, except that I don't think most folks own 11 regulators ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

 
Just a minor point, but it's "yoke", not "yolk". It's called that because of the frame that's connected to the working part of the regulator, which goes around the valve.

A "yolk" is the part of an egg that provides nutrition for the developing embryo ...

Yup, already pointed out. I guess having a brain fart is an unforgivable offense on SB...
 
with a DIN; you'll never have to worry about a tank O ring again.
No, you can worry about the 1st stage O-ring instead :D

I've experienced a blown O-ring on a DIN reg set. It happens a lot less often than with a yoke setup, but it's entirely possible. At least on land, while setting up the gear. Which is why I keep a few O-rings and a pick in my save-a-dive kit.


--
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Typos are a feature, not a bug
 

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