35f = -1c? 
If I dive at 150ft+/45m+ in water temps in 35f/-1c can I get away with a cheap $100 Xs octopus. Or should my octopus also be balanced at that depth
- Thread starter BigAladdin
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7 of one, half dozen of the other.35f = -1c?
eelnoraa
Contributor
Absolutely yes, but it does depend on the 2nd stage. For example, I will take HOG classic 2nd stage for any kind diving (within my capability) any time. It is $125.
stiebs
Contributor
You're a new diver. These aren't the sort of questions you need to be asking right now.
You are asking about saving a couple of hundred bucks. By the time you get to the experience and training required to do those sorts of dives, one regulator will feel like a drop in the ocean. At last count I think I had about a dozen first stages and about 20 second stages of different styles and brands. I've stopped counting now. And I sure most others on this board that regularly dive in the 40m+ range would be tbe same.
You will find the answers to your questions (or find more relevant questions to ask) as you gain more experience and training
OP
BigAladdin
Registered
It’s a question to understand how regulators work. It’s open ended. Not a yes or a no. Even though it may be formatted as that. Regulator packages come in package with sometimes cheaper octopus than a second stage, I’m wondering why. If you don’t like people asking questions maybe a forum isn’t for you. If you think a question is stupid or anything for that matter I suggest keep moving along. If something doesn’t make sense ask another open ended question and try to figure out the why before going down the rude route. This question was asked to get a better understanding in scheme packaging. Not to get away with a cheaper product or save money.
@stiebs has a point, but please don't take it too hard, @BigAladdin. It was absolutely not a stupid question. As you may have learned by now, the reason it is common to see regulator packages offered with a cheaper octo/backup is because there is some logic in thinking that because that octo/backup will only be breathed on rare occasion--and even then, perhaps not breathed longer than it takes to end the dive and ascend to the surface--that high performance isn't important. By the time experienced divers have invested thousands of dollars in equipment and training, they have come to realize the money saved is negligible, and there are advantages to having the same reg for your primary and your octo/backup. By the time a diver is ready to undertake dives to depths like 150 ft, it's not uncommon to have invested 10k or more in equipment and training. Very few of us ever undertake to do those kinds of dives. You may stay the course and someday become one such diver, and if you do, you'll probably have a garage full of regulators and tanks and other stuff by then.
Your question didn't make sense, and raised some serious red flags among more experienced divers. At depths past maybe 130 ft / 40 m you really need double tanks with an isolation manifold as a redundant gas supply in case of equipment failure (along with the training to use it safely). There is no "octopus" bought as a package. It's two separate first and second stage regulators.
I think this is a good question, not a bad one!
My suggestion has always been to use two identical second stages, balanced and with knob, and possibly to take the good habit to breath alternating them, so you are always sure that they are both fully functional.
This independent of depth or deco obligation.
I also second the suggestion to use a large capacity tank with independent valves and two first stages when diving deep and/or with deco.
Regarding twin tanks, they are compact and streamlined, compared with a single tank of same capacity, but I do not see them mandatory for recreational divers. They are definitely more expensive and not so easy to rent.
Here in the Mediterranean all diving centers provide 15 liters steel tanks with double valves, which are usually considered enough redundant for dives down to 50m max and with "light deco with back gas", something considered fully recreational here.
Of course double tanks are mandatory when you cross to tech diving.
My suggestion has always been to use two identical second stages, balanced and with knob, and possibly to take the good habit to breath alternating them, so you are always sure that they are both fully functional.
This independent of depth or deco obligation.
I also second the suggestion to use a large capacity tank with independent valves and two first stages when diving deep and/or with deco.
Regarding twin tanks, they are compact and streamlined, compared with a single tank of same capacity, but I do not see them mandatory for recreational divers. They are definitely more expensive and not so easy to rent.
Here in the Mediterranean all diving centers provide 15 liters steel tanks with double valves, which are usually considered enough redundant for dives down to 50m max and with "light deco with back gas", something considered fully recreational here.
Of course double tanks are mandatory when you cross to tech diving.
When you complete your OW, AOW, and especially Tec and drysuit courses to prepare yourself for diving 150ft+ at 35F water temp, you will cover equipment requirements and fully be able to answer this question for yourself.
Until then, the short answer is no, you don't want a cheap octo and won't be using one on that type of dive.
Most importantly, please do not attempt a dive that is well beyond what your training has prepared you for. Training, practice, and planning keep the chances of death or severe bodily harm at a minimum.
Until then, the short answer is no, you don't want a cheap octo and won't be using one on that type of dive.
Most importantly, please do not attempt a dive that is well beyond what your training has prepared you for. Training, practice, and planning keep the chances of death or severe bodily harm at a minimum.
scrane
Contributor
The OP’s questions seem WAY beyond his skills.
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