Handling question

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Liberty01

Contributor
Messages
250
Reaction score
6
Location
Germany
# of dives
500 - 999
Hi!
I am trying to get advice on the following:
I bought my first reg last year and went diving in tropical waters (20dives).
It was a Seemann with an adapter that comes with the usual dust cap.

The dust cap is important to keep dirt and water out of the reg. When you fix it on the reg, you can put the whole thing in the water (that is what I did for the last ten years).
During my dive trip, one divemaster told me that the dust cap was not very tight (it seemed rather tight to me), I should not put the reg in water, only put water from the sides gently.
The reg worked well during that trip, but has not been used since December. When I removed the adapter today, the O-ring looked okay.
I went to my LDS to ask about the dust cap not being tight enough. They said it was not waterproof anyway and should not get wet at all.

Now I am confused. What should I do with the reg?
Cheers,
Liberty
 
Liberty,

The DM had a good point,the dustcap's are not garanteed to be waterthight.
As for the Seemannsub regs.most of them are balanced 2nd stages and have a (LP)seat saving orifice.Most popular being the SL400&SL600.You can not leave them in a rince tank.
The trick with the seatsaving is that the (LP)seat is not resting on the orifice when not under pressure,thus leaving the reg.open to water.Best you rince with running water.

hope it helps.

cheers,
 
Thank you for your reply.
I used it a few times before, I am not too sure whether it was put in the tank.
After I was told, I was very careful about rinsing with running water only.
It worked well (about one dozen dives afterwards), does not show signs of erosion, but has not been used since November.
Should I get it revised?
Cheers,
Liberty
 
It depends,

1st on the model
2nd did you leave it in the tank(minutes or even hours)
On the balanced 2nd stages water can enter in minutes.
As for the non balanced 2nd stages,the dustcap is not gatanteed to be water proof
and thus water can enter, especialy after a longer stay in a rincetank.
You can remove one of the LP hoses and check for water or debry.(white stuff in the hose)

hope it helps.

cheers,
 
I checked my reg again. I was wrong.
The first stage is Oceanic CDX 5, the second stage CT 3.
Only the DIN Adapter and the pressure gauge are Seemann.
Would it be wise to get an adapter of the same brand?
Cheers,
Liberty
 
DON'T :no

If the adapter fits on the tanks you've being using,don't switch adapter.
If you do a search on the board you'll find a lot of questions on non fitting
adapters.

As for the Oceanic GT3,dunk it, rince it,but don't leave the CDX5 i the tank.
 
Thank you.
Actually, should I get the reg serviced because of above situation? It has been working well, only six months old.
Cheers,
Liberty
 
As long as the inside is dry,there is no need.
Don't know on what kind of interval you where planning to get it serviced,


cheers,
 
Thank you.
The servicing interval is 2 years for oceanic.
The reg has not been used much. In the owner´s guide they say you should leave it (completely with dustcap on) in the tank for one hour. That confuses me. I have not left it in he tank for more than half an hour, and only during the first days of diving, afterwards, I only rinsed it without submerging it.
The question is: Was there a risk of water getting inside and should I get it serviced for this reason even though it worked well all the time? The O-ring looks okay. I cannot see any filter mentioned elsewhere on SB.
Cheers,
Liberty
 
In the owner´s guide they say you should leave it (completely with dustcap on) in the tank for one hour. That confuses me. I have not left it in he tank for more than half an hour, and only during the first days of diving, afterwards, I only rinsed it without submerging it.
The question is: Was there a risk of water getting inside and should I get it serviced for this reason even though it worked well all the time? The O-ring looks okay. I cannot see any filter mentioned elsewhere on SB.
Cheers,
Liberty

The problem with just rinsing is it will not get the salt out of the the threaded connection that are not protected by an o-ring to block salt water incursion. Threads like the yokde nut (or din connection) in the 1st stage body, tyhe LP hose connection to the 2nd stage and the HP hose swivel connection all have unprotected threaded connections that can only be cleaned of salt by soaking (or disassembly). I soak my regs for hours after a SW dive trip.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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