G260 Micro-Adjust question?

[Duglum]

Tbh i'm still a bit confused on how exactly the steps work and in what order they are. But so far i didn't open my G260s fully, this will be my first attempt at servicing them myself. Maybe it will get clearer once i've disassembled everything and see the parts and how they interact. I believe i have all of the tools necessary, like inline adjuster, IP gauge and a digital differential pressure meter (magnehelic?).

Would something like this be viable?
1. screw adjustment knob all the way out
2. adjust orifice with inline tool until the regulator very slightly free flows
3. adjust the micro-adjust-screw in the knob until it does not free flow anymore and the cracking pressure is around 2.5mBar?

Or would just setting it to juuuust not free flowing in step 2 and ignoring the micro adjuster be better?
Or did i get everything wrong?

 

[rsingler]

Buy Regulator Savvy from Scubatools.com.
Once you read it, you will understand why that is not an approach that will be successful.

 

[Nemrod]

Tbh i'm still a bit confused on how exactly the steps work and in what order they are. But so far i didn't open my G260s fully, this will be my first attempt at servicing them myself. Maybe it will get clearer once i've disassembled everything and see the parts and how they interact. I believe i have all of the tools necessary, like inline adjuster, IP gauge and a digital differential pressure meter (magnehelic?).

Would something like this be viable?
1. screw adjustment knob all the way out
2. adjust orifice with inline tool until the regulator very slightly free flows
3. adjust the micro-adjust-screw in the knob until it does not free flow anymore and the cracking pressure is around 2.5mBar?

Or would just setting it to juuuust not free flowing in step 2 and ignoring the micro adjuster be better?
Or did i get everything wrong?

Maybe I am misunderstanding both of you guys . The MA should be set to a protrusion of 2mm for a starting adjustment. Follow the SM for the rest of the adjustment except that I still disagree with going back and forth with the orifice and MA. Unless they mean after the seat breaks in.

Setting my personal regulators to slightly leak, not free flow, but very slightly leak, with the knob full out is my preferred method. With the G250 this usually occurs naturally as the seat breaks in, with the G260 I am afforded a little fine adjustment with the MA after the seat breaks in. Or follow the manual, you are rarely wrong to follow the SM except for the tail chasing part, I am not going to readjust the orifice over and over, like picking a wall and then taking half steps, you will never get there in infinity, or just go all the way and touch the wall. That is what I do.

 

[Duglum]

Yeah, i've re-read the maintenance manual and a portion of this thread and i think it became a bit clearer to me. Guess i'll just have to try.

What amount of time or purging cycles would you say is enough to break the seat in? Would leaving it pressurized over night or something help with that?
I guess the first stage also has to break in a bit and would need readjustment after that..

 

[buddhasummer]

One

Yeah, i've re-read the maintenance manual and a portion of this thread and i think it became a bit clearer to me. Guess i'll just have to try.

What amount of time or purging cycles would you say is enough to break the seat in? Would leaving it pressurized over night or something help with that?
I guess the first stage also has to break in a bit and would need readjustment after that..

One dive

 

[buddhasummer]

Yeah, i've re-read the maintenance manual and a portion of this thread and i think it became a bit clearer to me. Guess i'll just have to try.

What amount of time or purging cycles would you say is enough to break the seat in? Would leaving it pressurized over night or something help with that?
I guess the first stage also has to break in a bit and would need readjustment after that..

DM me your email address I have some literature that if read will assist

 

[Pearlman]

What amount of time or purging cycles would you say is enough to break the seat in? Would leaving it pressurized over night or something help with that?
I guess the first stage also has to break in a bit and would need readjustment after that..

About 250-300 purge cycles are the recommended number for seat break-in. Alternatively leave the 2nd stage unpressurized overnight before final adjustment the next day (with the anti-set feature not used).

Since orifice position is critical to lever height and achieving maximum seat separation, it may be best not to tweak it over and over and risk losing it, rather work on the spring load using the micro-adjust till you achieve the balance between cracking pressure and a perfect seal while maintaining optimal lever height. May help to think about the balanced inline tool also as a kind of micro adjuster on the orifice side to achieve that perfect seal and use it with a delicate hand…

Edit: I just read the g260 service doc and it says that the adjustable orifice MUST be re-adjusted iteratively in tiny amounts to achieve a proper seat.