Question First regulator

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

The Zeagle F8 is like a MK 17 but better because it’s still available in the US. :wink: I always buy yokeland add DIN so when I travel I just switch back. The F8 second stage is also about 1/2 the price of a G260.
 
The Zeagle F8 is like a MK 17 but better because it’s still available in the US. :wink: I always buy yokeland add DIN so when I travel I just switch back. The F8 second stage is also about 1/2 the price of a G260.

Can you tell the Ford Granada from the Mercedes? Well, much to Ford's dismay, most consumers could :wink:.

At least with a Mark 19 it can serve dual purpose. If your dive boat looses their anchor just sub in the Mark 19.

Scubapro and Mares could put their first stages on a diet.
 
In the US, the Mk11 is a better option than the Mk17 or Mk19 for OP. It is the least expensive and lightest of the three. Op does not need the additional features of either the other two. And, unlike the Mk17, it is available.
 
Thank you all so much for your replies.... :)

Just so you know since I am from Germany American brands are not an option here. That also includes Atomic.

In Europe you can nail it down to SP, Mares, Cressi (not too popular) Aqualung and Apeks.

After reading all the recommendations I am even more torn than before because it seems that there can be no clear recommendation.

So I would like to pose another question: Are the more expensive regulators more prone to failures or other problems than the simpler ones?

If there is no difference I could just as well buy a top of the line model even if I will never use its features.

As I stated before there is really not a big difference in price and money is not an issue here.
 
Can you tell the Ford Granada from the Mercedes? Well, much to Ford's dismay, most consumers could :wink:.

At least with a Mark 19 it can serve dual purpose. If your dive boat looses their anchor just sub in the Mark 19.

Scubapro and Mares could put their first stages on a diet.
I think it’s not nice the compare the ford Granad(e,a) with the MK 19!
 
So I would like to pose another question: Are the more expensive regulators more prone to failures or other problems than the simpler ones?
No, but they are often heavier, and better in extreme conditions of cold etc.

If there is no difference I could just as well buy a top of the line model even if I will never use its features.
True, but some of the features are negatives if you don't need them (usually by adding weight and volume)

As I stated before there is really not a big difference in price and money is not an issue here.

There are 3 main things to think about besides price: environmental sealing, weight, and port layout.

And then some people prefer piston to diaphragm designs. They are simpler, but less easily environmentally sealed.

For the other brands available in the EU, I don't have particular advice. but for SP: the Mk11 is better for travel, the Mk17/19 is better for cold/ environmental sealing. If you want an SP piston, the Mk25 is the flagship, but others are more compact.
 
Oh, one more thing. You can't really go wrong with the major brands.
  • Pick piston or diaphragm based on your environmental sealing requirements ( most people for most diving this doesn't really mater).
  • Determine your port layout requirements (for most people they all have a good enough layout).
  • Determine your priority on weight.
  • Pick any reg that meets those, and you will be happy.
 
Just so you know since I am from Germany American brands are not an option here. That also includes Atomic.

Germany is one of the biggest markets for Atomic/Huish. The biggest distributor in the EU is in Germany. Atomic is well represented in the EU (not as big as SP but it is easily available there).
 
Germany is one of the biggest markets for Atomic/Huish. The biggest distributor in the EU is in Germany. Atomic is well represented in the EU (not as big as SP but it is easily available there).
I do not know where you got that piece of information but if you check for regulators here you would be hard pressed to find them. If your LDS has 15 regulators in stock you might find 1 Atomic among them. More likely there will be none.
That might be due to the fact that they are much more expensive than most of the others without having any distinguishing quality that justifies the higher price.
If you shop on the internet you find the same....
 
So, as @L13 has so conveniently broken it down, there is:

price
piston or diaphragm
weight
environmental sealing
port configuration

You already said price is not a factor for you.

Piston or diaphragm is moot, I think. Either will work for you. Neither has an inherent advantage or disadvantage.

Weight is personal. The difference between the lightest reg set and the heaviest of the ones being discussed is what I put in the category of "negligible". It's a few ounces at most. All the 1st stage regs being considered are chrome-over-brass. They're all heavy. If you really want a "light" reg set, you have to go titanium. And even then, the weight savings for a complete reg set is pretty darn small. Weight would just not be a factor, whatsoever, to me, among the regs being discussed.

Environmental sealing is something where I would take it if an option, but it would be very low on my priority list. You said you're not going to be diving super cold water, so environmental sealing to prevent freezing is moot for you. The advantage it offers is keeping sand/dirt/grit out of the ambient chamber portion of the first screen. That really is not a big deal. Nice, but definitely not major. I have ScubaPro Mk25 EVO 1st stages. They are not sealed. That means that someday, years down the road, I will have a little extra expense during a service to replace a cheap part or two that will get wear from having sand/dirt/grit in there.

Which only leaves port configuration. You can buy a Mk17 and have no bottom port. If you ever decide you want one, you are out of luck. Or you can get a reg with a bottom port, like a Mk19 (or any Atomic). Then, you can attach your hoses the same way you would on a Mk17 - if you want - or you can take advantage of having the bottom port. The only downside is what some have brought up. It's a little bit bigger and heavier... which you can skip back 2 paragraphs to read my opinion on that. The difference is something like a couple of ounces. Just me personally, but I would not forego a feature that I might potentially want at some point just to save a couple of ounces on my reg set.

If price truly is not a factor, then buy the best regulator on the market and be done. Buy once, cry once. Get the Atomic TFX. The lightest and the best breathing reg you can buy right now, as far as I know. I have one. It really does make everything else mentioned in this thread seem second class.
 

Back
Top Bottom