All we use on steel brake lines. With the double flaring inserts.I've used one on steel brake line, it worked but I wouldn't want to make a habit of it. The unit Akimbo linked probably would have been easier.
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All we use on steel brake lines. With the double flaring inserts.I've used one on steel brake line, it worked but I wouldn't want to make a habit of it. The unit Akimbo linked probably would have been easier.
All we use on steel brake lines. With the double flaring inserts.
All we use on steel brake lines. With the double flaring inserts.I've used one on steel brake line, it worked but I wouldn't want to make a habit of it. The unit Akimbo linked probably would have been easier.
Mine does not look like the one in rob's picture, and was made for copper. The block holding the pipe clamps with wing nuts, and it's hard to get it tight enough to hold the pipe from slipping while flaring steel.
That is why I clamp it in a vise.Mine does not look like the one in rob's picture, and was made for copper. The block holding the pipe clamps with wing nuts, and it's hard to get it tight enough to hold the pipe from slipping while flaring steel.
That is why I clamp it in a vise.
How about a link to a site where this can be purchased? TIAMine are the simple clamp together kind. I have a full stock of 1/4 fittings and have used it for a lot of connections. frogman62 told me he believes the 45 deg flare seals better. I don't know, but it seals fine.
Mine are the simple clamp together kind. I have a full stock of 1/4 fittings and have used it for a lot of connections. frogman62 told me he believes the 45 deg flare seals better. I don't know, but it seals fine.
How about a link to a site where this can be purchased? TIA
I have the Olsen 2002. I don’t know anyone who makes the mistake of forgetting the sleeve and nuts, especially after making complex bendsI strongly recommend against mixing 37 and 45° flares and fittings. However, a great trick for getting stainless fittings tight against HP Helium is to use copper conical seals.
The softer material act as gaskets between the two harder stainless surfaces and compensate for less than perfect flares.
Production flaring is done with electrically driven machines with offset rotating cones. Here is a benchtop unit. The amount of clamping force required is much lower than manual flaring units because the cone is offset as it rotates and moves toward the tube. We had a floor standing model when I was manufacturing sat systems. Some hydraulics shops have units like this and will flair your tubing for a small fee.
Just remember to slide the nuts and sleeves on the tubing, in the right direction, before flaring the second end, not the I have ever made that stupid mistake,
More like you don't know anyone that makes the mistake anymore.I have the Olsen 2002. I don’t know anyone who makes the mistake of forgetting the sleeve and nuts, especially after making complex bends