Dudesesses

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

I've used one on steel brake line, it worked but I wouldn't want to make a habit of it. The unit Akimbo linked probably would have been easier.
All we use on steel brake lines. With the double flaring inserts.
 
All we use on steel brake lines. With the double flaring inserts.

Mine does not look like the one in rob's picture, and was made for copper. The block holding the pipe clamps with wing nuts, and it's hard to get it tight enough to hold the pipe from slipping while flaring steel.
 
I use this one for stainless tube. It works well. .035 requires a bit of soap on the anvil for every flare.

 
I've used one on steel brake line, it worked but I wouldn't want to make a habit of it. The unit Akimbo linked probably would have been easier.
All we use on steel brake lines. With the double flaring inserts.
Mine does not look like the one in rob's picture, and was made for copper. The block holding the pipe clamps with wing nuts, and it's hard to get it tight enough to hold the pipe from slipping while flaring steel.
Mine does not look like the one in rob's picture, and was made for copper. The block holding the pipe clamps with wing nuts, and it's hard to get it tight enough to hold the pipe from slipping while flaring steel.
That is why I clamp it in a vise.
 
Mine are the simple clamp together kind. I have a full stock of 1/4 fittings and have used it for a lot of connections. frogman62 told me he believes the 45 deg flare seals better. I don't know, but it seals fine.
How about a link to a site where this can be purchased? TIA
 
Mine are the simple clamp together kind. I have a full stock of 1/4 fittings and have used it for a lot of connections. frogman62 told me he believes the 45 deg flare seals better. I don't know, but it seals fine.

How about a link to a site where this can be purchased? TIA

I strongly recommend against mixing 37 and 45° flares and fittings. However, a great trick for getting stainless fittings tight against HP Helium is to use copper conical seals.

1645536188844.png

The softer material act as gaskets between the two harder stainless surfaces and compensate for less than perfect flares.

Production flaring is done with electrically driven machines with offset rotating cones. Here is a benchtop unit. The amount of clamping force required is much lower than manual flaring units because the cone is offset as it rotates and moves toward the tube. We had a floor standing model when I was manufacturing sat systems. Some hydraulics shops have units like this and will flair your tubing for a small fee.


Just remember to slide the nuts and sleeves on the tubing, in the right direction, before flaring the second end, not the I have ever made that stupid mistake, :(
 
How about a link to a site where this can be purchased? TIA
Everybody sells them OTC 6502 is a high priced one
 
I strongly recommend against mixing 37 and 45° flares and fittings. However, a great trick for getting stainless fittings tight against HP Helium is to use copper conical seals.


The softer material act as gaskets between the two harder stainless surfaces and compensate for less than perfect flares.

Production flaring is done with electrically driven machines with offset rotating cones. Here is a benchtop unit. The amount of clamping force required is much lower than manual flaring units because the cone is offset as it rotates and moves toward the tube. We had a floor standing model when I was manufacturing sat systems. Some hydraulics shops have units like this and will flair your tubing for a small fee.


Just remember to slide the nuts and sleeves on the tubing, in the right direction, before flaring the second end, not the I have ever made that stupid mistake, :(
I have the Olsen 2002. I don’t know anyone who makes the mistake of forgetting the sleeve and nuts, especially after making complex bends
 
I have the Olsen 2002. I don’t know anyone who makes the mistake of forgetting the sleeve and nuts, especially after making complex bends
More like you don't know anyone that makes the mistake anymore. :facepalm:

It is the sort of error you only make once.
 

Back
Top Bottom