Holy Cow. This post went nutz overnight. Let mee see if I can clarify and answer a few questions.
Totally silent. I had my BlackTip before the "quiet" firmware. The "quiet" firmware made it SO much nicer!
This is simply a product of how the motor is sent current. Square wave vs sinusoidal wave. See earlier post discussing it.
A built-in display that shows all the info the Logic Sentry shows, plus having a leak detector integrated into it.
These are all things that smart-dpv is working on with their latest innovation. it also ties into the smart-dpv esc which will allow readouts of rpm, est battery level, energy used (think trip meter on a car. if you started with a full tank and know you have a 300 mile tank, you know roughly where your battery level sits)
ditch the leak detector, they are a waste IMO. if you have a leak and the unit was properly setup (perfectly trim and neutral) that sucker is going to sink when there is ANY leak or water intrusion. you can add a humidity gauge but that's about the extent of what I would do.
Is there a software setting to reduce its sensitivity? Or maybe one of your batteries has a duff cell which is just dying.
Yes, there is an adjustment for it. but if you are hitting that limit routinely, you have a genuine issue with your batteries.
The setting is "$i" and the default value is 2. this means if the batteries are sitting more than 2v from each other at any time, it will give the warning, if you want you COULD bump it to 3 and see if that resolves your issue. they are 5s packs, IIRC the LVC is 30v so even assuming they are dead. 1 pack could be sitting at 18v and the other could be at 12v, they are Samsung 40T, that's a min of 2.4v/cell on the bottom pack. The 40T is rated to 2.5v minimum discharge.
Is it recommended for those cells to drop below 2.5v? no. will they take it and probably not care? yes.
The BT can not sustain any speed above 5 indefinitely in stock configuration. If you cruise around for 30min of 5 and try to go 6+ it will cut out and slow down after a few min. Its not a battery limitation, but a motor/esc one. The esc/motor gets hot and they power limit the DPV.
This is correct, there are a few ways to address it. The thermal issue comes specifically from the ESC as the BT does not have a temp sensor for the motor, It will keep running till it melts but you have to push way more power than what they are rated for. to increase this limit you can go passive for active cooling.
Passive: Add a heatsink to the top of the ESC plate, remove the serial number sticker, find a small 50x50 heatsink on amazon, drill a few holes in it, add some thermal paste and use the existing ESC screws to hold it down,
Active: Very invasive, requires deporting the ESC to access the trigger wires, Not going into It on this thread, The passive cooling route is more than sufficient in most use cases.
Yes, there is a firmware setting that can be changed to tell it to ignore battery balance. But, I have not used that because I assume there is a reason it works the way it does out of the box, but I don't know what it is. So, turning that feature off means (in my mind, anyway) that I am risking damaging the scooter, the batteries, or both. Not REALLY knowing why it works that way in the first place has made me unwilling to turn the feature off.
Note my response farther up to
@Wibble 's Comment. Don't turn it off as you will lose your battery gauge entirely, Why does DX use the sense wire as their meter for the battery gauge? Dont know, but they work in unison, Increase the limit but don't turn off Vsense wire.
I think of BLDC as referring just to the motor type, that is "BrushLess DC", with two categories of drive method: "sensored" and "sensorless". FOC is sensorless. Using hall sensors or encoder is sensored. What kind of drive method do you mean when you say "BLDC", and how is it not sensored or sensorless?
What I mean by BLDC is the old method of driving Brushless motors before they had FOC, Square wave PWM, Very jagged, very sharp, very noisy, If you remember when the Cuda wide blade xprop came out people shoved them on their Cuda Furys (Not recommended) and it would either shear the shaft pin or fry the controller on startup because it couldn't smoothly turn on the motor and those big boat props had a very large moment of inertia.
This could be 8 hours or more.
This is an insignificant amount of time and will not affect the battery balance in any way. the Vsense wire draws. 0.00216w which is so insignificant in this case it doesn't matter. the batteries themselves have a higher self draw and the ESC draws like 0.48w at idle.
As for your batteries, try to balance them out better because the Dewalt chargers are kinda lame. Charge both batteries until the charger says they are done. Remove them for an hour or two. put them back on the charger again until they are fully charged. and repeat once more. this will allow you to "top balance" those batteries as those chargers don't trickle charge them when they get near the top voltage.
Also, I'm not going anywhere near the UN38.3 conversation. I build batteries and don't want to be in the middle of it. My opinion on these power slices stays between select people and I'm not going to bash any other manufacturer. None of my packs are UN38.3 rated and likely never will be. I make at least 8 different battery designs and it cost ~$10k to test each design not to mention the 12-24 units they need for destruction.
Hope this answers most of everyone's questions....
