Review Blacktip DPV Woes

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Unfortunately I think at this point it’s a lost cause. I would have to find someone to custom fabricate a plastic part, and get a programmed VSEC chip to replace the dead one.

I’m saving up for a Seacraft or SubGravity, and teaching with the LeFeet S1 Pro for now (which is surprisingly good as a recreational DPV)
Programming the VESC is very easy. I did it myself - after buying a replacement board from Dive Xtras that arrived completely DOA, and their refusal to help, I realized that they use an off-the-shelf Flipsky VESC 4.2, and the firmware to flash on it is available on Github. As long as you have a Windows PC and a micro-USB cable, it's very straightforward to flash the firmware and replace the VESC. I will gladly walk you through it if you decide to go that route.

As others have suggested, I've functionally given up on Dive Xtras 'support', since their resolution for every problem appears to be:

  1. Assume that the problem is the fault of the customer
  2. Tell the customer their only resolution is to ship it back to Dive Xtras (at customer's expense) and have them diagnose to confirm the problem (at an hourly labor charge)
  3. Confirm that the problem must be the fault of the customer (with no way to appeal/dispute/disprove)
  4. Charge the customer for the repair/return shipping (at this point you're about at the cost of a new Blacktip)
However, if you're willing/able to fix everything yourself, it uses a lot of off-the-shelf parts, and Dive Xtras will also sell you any custom parts for a reasonable price. There's also a strong community of tinkerers/software documentation/open-source 3D-printed parts. So if you think of it more of a 'kit scooter' and less of a 'ready to dive' product, it makes a lot more sense.
 
This story stresses me out as mine got a small amount of water in it recently and as far as I can tell, the o-rings for sealing the tube are fine. Unfortunately, the water shorted out the VESC. I sent it back to them 2 weeks ago. They acknowledged they received it, and I haven't heard anything since.

If it is a shaft leak issue, how easy is this to resolve DIY?

I'm confident with soldering, I used to build FPV drones. I'm also a tech guy and not intimidated by flashing.
 
This story stresses me out as mine got a small amount of water in it recently and as far as I can tell, the o-rings for sealing the tube are fine. Unfortunately, the water shorted out the VESC. I sent it back to them 2 weeks ago. They acknowledged they received it, and I haven't heard anything since.

If it is a shaft leak issue, how easy is this to resolve DIY?

I'm confident with soldering, I used to build FPV drones. I'm also a tech guy and not intimidated by flashing.
If you can build FPV drones you can replace the VESC and flash it.

I'm not sure about the BT shaft seal, the old Cuda/Sierra seals are straightforward to change.
 
If you can build FPV drones you can replace the VESC and flash it.

I'm not sure about the BT shaft seal, the old Cuda/Sierra seals are straightforward to change.
I haven't actually changed my shaft seal yet (if it ain't broke, etc), but the procedure looked very straightforward when I looked it up. To save $$$, I definitely recommend buying the VESC from Flipsky directly and flashing it yourself. Be warned, some of the other low-voltage components (i.e. the screen) may have also shorted out, so you might need to also replace that. Easy enough to do, but kinda involved to do without just buying the replacement screen from Dive-Xtras.
 
I'll have to wait and see what they say
 
ok, glad I read that. I have a BlackTip scooter thats playing up. I've had it since Nov '24 and enjoyed it immensely (apart from the painful trigger finger its given me) - I've used it about 100 times in 6 months. However, the motor has became unbalanced in February, and feels like it's seized.

I can temporarily fix this by tightening/untightening the screws holding it in place, which seems to rebalance it. It then works for a day before needing adjusting again, so its become just too much effort to use anymore.

I feel like the BlackTip is just a recreational toy, so was considering upgrading to a CudaX, but now, after reading @hawaiian.hokie painful story.. I'm not so sure.

Can anyone recommend a reliable alternative (ideally one that uses the same batteries, seeing as they were an investment on their own!).

Thanks in advance :)
 
I have sold my replacement BT to a buddy who is a SB user and is 100% aware of my experience.
 
@divedisciple you can sell the batteries and charger pretty easily if they are dewalts to contractors and people with the power tools. there really is nothing else that uses the 9aH to 12aH 20v batteries.

assuming you aren't looking at making the jump to a genesis, then you're pretty much otherwise looking at a smaller suex in the sub 4k range outside of divex products
 
ok, glad I read that. I have a BlackTip scooter thats playing up. I've had it since Nov '24 and enjoyed it immensely (apart from the painful trigger finger its given me) - I've used it about 100 times in 6 months. However, the motor has became unbalanced in February, and feels like it's seized.

I can temporarily fix this by tightening/untightening the screws holding it in place, which seems to rebalance it. It then works for a day before needing adjusting again, so its become just too much effort to use anymore.

I feel like the BlackTip is just a recreational toy, so was considering upgrading to a CudaX, but now, after reading @hawaiian.hokie painful story.. I'm not so sure.

Can anyone recommend a reliable alternative (ideally one that uses the same batteries, seeing as they were an investment on their own!).

Thanks in advance :)

I think "reliable" and "uses the same batteries [as a BlackTip]" are two statements in conflict with each other.

DeWalt power tool batteries were not designed to run a DPV. They have literally NO quality control done to them to ensure they are fit for the purpose of running a DPV.

The BlackTip power connector has 3 wires. The blue wire is for the purpose of monitoring the voltage difference between the batteries. When the difference gets to be too great, the scooter shuts off. Usually, at least in my experience with my own, it will start back up after just a few seconds. But, it can still be anything from slightly annoying to a serious hazard.

And that is just going to be the nature of using that type of battery pack to power a DPV. They aren't made for that, and there is no guarantee they are going to deliver consistent power when you really need it.

I think it's an okay tradeoff to use those PTBs (power tool batteries) in a $2000 scooter. But, there is simply no WAY I would consider spending $7000 - 8000 for a scooter that uses them. There are too many great options that use batteries well fit for the purpose in the same ballpark of price. Plus, the PTBs don't have nearly the energy density of a well-designed pack for a DPV. I.e. a Cuda X does not have nearly as much battery capacity, and therefore burn time, as a Seacraft Future or Logic Gear Genesis of the same approximate size and weight. The PTB scooters waste too much space inside the scooter with PTB packaging and sockets.
 
I had one develop some leaks that got into the tail section, got a series of deep dives done with it, not sure what combination of shipped hidden weakness and usage contributed. Like you I was nowhere near close enough to deal with shipping (international).

Another [earlier] one I had has been cruising dry for years with no issues.

I think they vacuum check all the units before delivery, but real-world field use/performance is gonna be different and variable.

Without the recommended vacuum slice you will not be able to test or detect weaknesses before the end of a full dive, so that is a gamble. Still comes out to half the price (or less) compared to real 'tech' DPVs, slice included.

Just like with camera housings, there is a 'cheap' option, and YMMV. Some people are happy with them, but floods do happen.

Hope you and them can come to solution
 

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