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Thanks for the info.I have a couple of Halcyon 300 BAR Din valves with the dimple on the back.
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Thanks for the info.I have a couple of Halcyon 300 BAR Din valves with the dimple on the back.
Just trying to understand....what is the problem with sanding the outside of the tank? How is bead blasting any better for the removal of oxidation/rust with regard to the structural integrity of the tank?
-Z
Will that fit the 7/8 bottles?I have a couple of Halcyon 300 BAR Din valves with the dimple on the back.
No, they are standard 3/4", I don't have any 3500 psi cylinders.Will that fit the 7/8 bottles?
I am in the same camp. If you clean it up, get it tested and, even after passing hydro, catastrophically fails, the first question a lawyer will ask is “what did you do to this tank?”As other's have said, in the big picture tanks are cheap. Over the life of a tank you will spend far more on VIPs, Hydros and fills than the cost of the tank. Given that it is a bomb I'm storing in my home, placing in my car, and strapping on my back, I choose not to dink around with questionable tanks. Perhaps that's just me.
All of my DIN valves have the dimple as well, as they are 200 BAR DIN valves. The OP needs a 300 BAR DIN valve to fit his neck threads. I got rid of all of my PST tanks and never owned a spun steel for exactly that reason. Because I don’t like the deep (300 BAR) DIN valves. I hate having mix and match gear, as then I have to keep different burst disks, different adapters, and different valve kits around. Now that I only have 8 tanks, it isn’t so bad, but I had over 100 at one time.Both of my DIN valves have the dimple. If want to use a yolk valve, you need them. Not all yolk valves are big enough to fit on my DIN with the yolk adapter.