Do you think this can pass visual?

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I have a couple of Halcyon 300 BAR Din valves with the dimple on the back.
Thanks for the info.
 
Just remembered that I also have an OMS 300 BAR Din and on checking that also has the dimple so it may not be that uncommon.
 
Just trying to understand....what is the problem with sanding the outside of the tank? How is bead blasting any better for the removal of oxidation/rust with regard to the structural integrity of the tank?

-Z

Bead blasting, because of the nature of the blasting medium, doesn't abrade the material surface. Also the micro "hammering" from the beads shot peens the surface. This puts the surface of the material into compression, which is good for distributing stresses

Sanding on the other hand is abrasive, and has the risk of reducing material, so reducing wall thickness as well as if using a machine, can induce localised heating when done to excess.

When visually looking at a component that's been sanded you've no idea whether it's had a light burnish or had significant work which has then been camouflaged
 
As other's have said, in the big picture tanks are cheap. Over the life of a tank you will spend far more on VIPs, Hydros and fills than the cost of the tank. Given that it is a bomb I'm storing in my home, placing in my car, and strapping on my back, I choose not to dink around with questionable tanks. Perhaps that's just me.
I am in the same camp. If you clean it up, get it tested and, even after passing hydro, catastrophically fails, the first question a lawyer will ask is “what did you do to this tank?”

It’s not really worth the time and effort, considering, even if it passes all the inspections (and that isn’t a certainty), a shop may look at it and decide they don’t want to fill it because they think it has been altered.
 
Both of my DIN valves have the dimple. If want to use a yolk valve, you need them. Not all yolk valves are big enough to fit on my DIN with the yolk adapter.
 
Both of my DIN valves have the dimple. If want to use a yolk valve, you need them. Not all yolk valves are big enough to fit on my DIN with the yolk adapter.
All of my DIN valves have the dimple as well, as they are 200 BAR DIN valves. The OP needs a 300 BAR DIN valve to fit his neck threads. I got rid of all of my PST tanks and never owned a spun steel for exactly that reason. Because I don’t like the deep (300 BAR) DIN valves. I hate having mix and match gear, as then I have to keep different burst disks, different adapters, and different valve kits around. Now that I only have 8 tanks, it isn’t so bad, but I had over 100 at one time.
 
Absolute the best for repair of galvanize or bare steel. I prefer to roll on 3 coats and let cure for at least 2 weeks.

ZRC Galvilite
 

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