Diving watches

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"If someone is so worried on backup instruments and safety" it should be resolved by educating him/herself on basic deco principles not by investing in another DC.
For the same profile, different computers or the same computers with different settings will give you different information so how can you say that they are accurate? Precise yes but which one is correct?
I have nothing against DC and you are right that a cheap basic one is a good choice but, here, we are talking about diving with a watch and yes, even if you don't agree, a watch is also a good option to monitor your diving parameters.
Read all of the above, its easier to reply that way. I've already stated that both DCs ideally should be using the same algorithm ALTHOUGH not really a problem as both will start simultaneously at the beginning of your dive and differences between algorithms are not so extreme.

And yes, we disagree. A watch is not the best option as practically no one follows a predetermined diving profile set in advance using the US NDT like in the earlier days. This is an open forum and people can say whatever. IF you belong to that small category that really plans your dives in addition to using a dive computer, my answer is the same as previously: Congrats.
 
I'm kind of lusting after this one...

View attachment 729478

Its the Captain Willard re-imagined in black and a slightly larger case.

And Ramadan is supposed to teach me the difference between need and want. Oh well.
Friend mind that the watch is PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) and not DLC (Diamond Like Coating).
Of course the finish will be harder than normal steel BUT any scratches cannot be buffed out nor polished like you can with a normal steel case. PVD will show scratches and fade relatively easy. The 2 methods for coating are very similar but the materials used on DLC make it much more durable. Just Google used watch in bith finishes and you will instantly see the differences.

The watch looks great but you will have to live with the wear as it will not last long especially with activities where you cannot baby it like scuba diving!

For general information, watches material hardness is measured using the Vickers scale. These are categorized as such*:

316L Steel = 150 - 200 HV
904L Steel (like Rolex) = 200 - 240 HV
Ti grade 1 = 150 - 200 HV
Ti grade 5 (like Citizen) = 350 - 400 HV
Ice-hardened steel (like Damasko) = 700 HV
PVD = 1.000 HV - 1.500 HV
Ceramic Coating (like IWC) = 1.300 HV
DLC (like Breitling) = 1.200 - 2.000 HV
Tegimented (like Sinn) = 1.500 - 2.000 HV
Tungsten = 1.000 - 2.500 HV (Hardened Carbide)
Ceramic = 9.000 - 10.000 HV

PVD and DLC coatings are often greatly exaggerated by brands, all and all, the coating is about 2-3 nanometers only so basically an egg-shell that is only as durable as the metal underneath.
From my personal experience, I would go with Ceramic first (Omega, Longines), Tungsten (I have a vintage Rado that only showed a few scratches after I had a motorcycle accident) then Tegimented with DLC (Sinn) and then DLC (Cartier, Breitling). Everything else comes after.

*All of the above are approximates as watch manufacturers use different techniques and materials but nevertheless it should give you some idea of watch case hardness :)
 
Yet your original post said you want it to be the same DC.
The same algorithm preferably. It is easier to switch but not mandatory.
It is clearly stated.
 
I dive under the “$hit can happen” mind set. I also never ever rely on someone else to “save/help” me. So I do every thing with multiple back ups including using different types of devices.
Get a backup DC. Easier, safer.
 
My 2 Dive Watches, the other 2 are GMTs cause I travel a lot :)
 

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It is not about wearing a Rolex. It is about having a Rolex Submariner as a diver. Is it worth it?
No. Period.

Dive computers are what you need. There's nothing wrong with wearing a watch too, but it really serves no purpose. Dropping thousands on a Rolex is to show off, nothing more.
Literally everyone in my circle is a pretty hard core diver and none of them wear watches. A well known UW photographer/cinematographer who has stayed at my house and who I consider a friend, recently shot and starred in a series of ads for a Seiko dive watch. Big budget diving in Alaska and Antarctica. She doesn't actually wear a watch when she dives.
 
No. Period.

Dive computers are what you need. There's nothing wrong with wearing a watch too, but it really serves no purpose. Dropping thousands on a Rolex is to show off, nothing more.
Literally everyone in my circle is a pretty hard core diver and none of them wear watches. A well known UW photographer/cinematographer who has stayed at my house and who I consider a friend, recently shot and starred in a series of ads for a Seiko dive watch. Big budget diving in Alaska and Antarctica. She doesn't actually wear a watch when she dives.
Totally agree on the part that you don't need a luxury watch to dive (nor a watch in general as I already stated).

However, we should clarify that everything you buy beyond the absolutely necessary is to show off.
Not only your luxury watch. No one needs a 1K BCD, 800$ regulator, a 70K car, a 1.3K cellphone, 2K Yeezy tennis shoes, a 3K 70" TV, etc.

People like 'shinny' things. The more you make, the more you spend. It's life.
 
Those Garmin computers do look nice. If they ever had the functionality of an Apple watch, I would be down with it.
What functionality are you looking for? The Garmin Descent Mk2 series has all the usual smart watch features. However, it isn't available with LTE so if you need that then it won't work.
 
Probably the ability to interact with the rest of the Apple ecosystem. It's hard for me to imagine a feature that would tempt me to forgo my Watch's interaction with my iPhone and associated software, especially the health and fitness apps.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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