Diving watches

[Fishdip]

I didn't read more than two or three replies in this thread so sorry if this is redundant...

Dive watches have almost zero utility for diving. These days, at worst, most recreational divers are using some form of bottom timer/depth gauge device. What's a dive watch going to give you that you don't already have?

Further, any watch that fits you properly on land is not going to fit you with a wetsuit on. And certainly will not fit with a drysuit on.

I really wanted a dive watch when I first started diving. But it turned out, it was a solution to no particular problem.

Strap extender in fact mine fits 100% in all 3 situations. On top of that its a back up for the day that computer fails…

 

[El Diablo]

Well you would be wrong in fact I use a hud computer a back up analog depth/air/compass. I use my watch with a depth gauge and the tables. I set the watch bezel first to my turn around time. Then I set it to my deco stop time. Just because you are lazy and expect a computer to be correct 100% of the time don’t mean all divers are. On top of that if the computer failed you can still use it as a safety/deco stop timer even if you did not do the tables first as you should know based off how long you been at depth how long of a stop you will need.

1. From my understanding, many diving agencies don't teach the US Navy Dive Tables anymore.

2. Following the profile set on dive tables is VERY different than real life scenarios and real time algorithm adaptation. These differences can be crucial while at depth and in DECO situations and you know as well as I do that you cannot predict using the US ND tables the actual seabed nor your actual exact depth at all times. This means, IF you've planned your dive to 28m, you need to stay at 28m for the whole dive right? Problem is, you have a DC so you are following the rest of the divers and now your dive computer "fails" mid-dive so you have no idea what calculations apply anymore... OR you've planned your whole dive based on your max depth, you follow it religiously, you are obviously separated from the rest of the group and your bottom time is greatly reduced as a bonus. Nice.

3. You must also be taking notes UW on your slate right? Your dive watch bezel can only be used for one thing at the time... so let's say NO DECO to make a point. Did you noted down your NO DECO stop exactly at the point your DC failed or you didn't noticed in time that you now have a mandatory DECO stop...??? And did you had the time to adjust that bezel from Dive Time / NO DECO to DECO and write all down as well??? Humm... not so easy now right? Mind that NO DECO will show basically unlimited time in shallower waters while it will readjust automatically when going deeper. You simply cannot do that and you cannot predict WHEN your DC will fail as well.

4. Bottom line, why in hell would I want to overcomplicate things when I can simply use a backup dive computer??? One just need to be sure that it is the same brand and/or it uses the same algorithm and problem solved. As a last resort, If you follow the buddy system and stick to it, you still have a backup instrument to safely return to the surface.

Not using any anachronistic methods just to look 'cool' has nothing to do with being lazy my friend, it is about not being a cheap bastard in order not to become a statistic as you already mentioned

You think I am lazy while I am simply outsmarting you.

ps. Dive to 30m for 30min and then descend to 40-45m for 4.5min and try to make some basic calculations in your slate while the clock is ticking and your air running out just for fun, we can continue this conversation afterwards.

 

[Fishdip]

1. From my understanding, many diving agencies don't teach the US Navy Dive Tables anymore.

2. Following the profile set on dive tables is VERY different than real life scenarios and real time algorithm adaptation. These differences can be crucial while at depth and in DECO situations and you know as well as I do that you cannot predict using the US ND tables the actual seabed nor your actual exact depth at all times. This means, IF you've planned your dive to 28m, you need to stay at 28m for the whole dive right? Problem is, you have a DC so you are following the rest of the divers and now your dive computer "fails" mid-dive so you have no idea what calculations apply anymore... OR you've planned your whole dive based on your max depth, you follow it religiously, you are obviously separated from the rest of the group and your bottom time is greatly reduced as a bonus. Nice.

3. You must also be taking notes UW on your slate right? Your dive watch bezel can only be used for one thing at the time... so let's say NO DECO to make a point. Did you noted down your NO DECO stop exactly at the point your DC failed or you didn't noticed in time that you now have a mandatory DECO stop...??? And did you had the time to adjust that bezel from Dive Time / NO DECO to DECO and write all down as well??? Humm... not so easy now right? Mind that NO DECO will show basically unlimited time in shallower waters while it will readjust automatically when going deeper. You simply cannot do that and you cannot predict WHEN your DC will fail as well.

4. Bottom line, why in hell would I want to overcomplicate things when I can simply use a backup dive computer??? One just need to be sure that it is the same brand and/or it uses the same algorithm and problem solved. As a last resort, If you follow the buddy system and stick to it, you still have a backup instrument to safely return to the surface.

Not using any anachronistic methods just to look 'cool' has nothing to do with being lazy my friend, it is about not being a cheap bastard in order not to become a statistic as you already mentioned

You think I am lazy while I am simply outsmarting you.

ps. Dive to 30m for 30min and then descend to 40-45m for 4.5min and try to make some basic calculations in your slate while the clock is ticking and your air running out just for fun, we can continue this conversation afterwards.

Interesting points! Since you are out smarting me so well please tell me when that computer dies at 180 feet what are going to do? Because now you have no idea how deep you are or how to even track time. How do you even decided at what point to stop to deco how do you figure out how long you have been at that stop? Because for me I have done drills of acting like my computer had failed and using the depth and time on the watch to make my way up.

 

[BoltSnap]

nteresting points! Since you are out smarting me so well please tell me when that computer dies at 180 feet what are going to do? Because now you have no idea how deep you are or how to even track time. How do you even decided at what point to stop to deco how do you figure out how long you have been at that stop? Because for me I have done drills of acting like my computer had failed and using the depth and time on the watch to make my way up.

He already told you and answered your questions, if it is that critical, he'd use a backup computer and would just keep going. If you dive to 180 feet, I am sure that you can afford a back up dive computer.

Switching from a dive computer to dive tables with a watch isn't that practical or appropriate to do.

 

[jale]

It looks to me that a lot of people are mixing "precision" with "accuracy".
If you are using a back-up computer it doesn't mean that you are more accurate than using a back-up watch and a depth meter. It is not the tool, it is your understanding which is important. Tools should be there to confirm what you already know.

 

[BoltSnap]

It looks to me that a lot of people are mixing "precision" with "accuracy".
If you are using a back-up computer it doesn't mean that you are more accurate than using a back-up watch and a depth meter. It is not the tool, it is your understanding which is important. Tools should be there to confirm what you already know.

Yes, one has to understand deco theory and all of the terminology and concepts required to make the right decisions and understanding/knowing the proper use of the tools, tables or DC.

 

[Fishdip]

He already told you and answered your questions, if it is that critical, he'd use a backup computer and would just keep going. If you dive to 180 feet, I am sure that you can afford a back up dive computer.

Switching from a dive computer to dive tables with a watch isn't that practical or appropriate to do.

He already told you and answered your questions, if it is that critical, he'd use a backup computer and would just keep going. If you dive to 180 feet, I am sure that you can afford a back up dive computer.

Switching from a dive computer to dive tables with a watch isn't that practical or appropriate to do.

My point is not every one dives with two computers and a watch can be a cheap back up option. The point I am trying to make is when the Swiss cheese lines up you want as many options as you can. Also how is it not practical or appropriate to do? If you are not following your dive plan at least decently close then you really should not be diving. Part of that dive plan is setting depth limits and turn back times following the dive tables.

 

[El Diablo]

Interesting points! Since you are out smarting me so well please tell me when that computer dies at 180 feet what are going to do? Because now you have no idea how deep you are or how to even track time. How do you even decided at what point to stop to deco how do you figure out how long you have been at that stop? Because for me I have done drills of acting like my computer had failed and using the depth and time on the watch to make my way up.

Sure.

1. I NEVER had a dive computer dying on me UW in 20+ years. Others might.
2. I own a D5 and a D9. If I am going to do some deep diving, I will wear both.
3. I know how deep I am and my Dive Time as I also use a Cressi Digi2 SPG that also tells me how much air I have left at my current breathing rate in addition to my Air Integrated DC.
4. I do follow the buddy system religiously and I mean RELIGIOUSLY. The 2-3 people I dive with understand the importance of this so we keep at arms reach at all times. They also have their own dive computers. If mine(s) fail, we use theirs.
5. I have absolutely NO PROBLEM aborting a dive if necessary.

As I said, there's no need for overcomplicating things. I need no drills, no tables calculations, no slates, no stress. IF for you this is part of the 'hobby' and you enjoy the process, that's fine with me. The whole point was that in general, a dive watch has little use when DCs do more things, safer, faster and much more accurately.

 

[El Diablo]

It looks to me that a lot of people are mixing "precision" with "accuracy".
If you are using a back-up computer it doesn't mean that you are more accurate than using a back-up watch and a depth meter. It is not the tool, it is your understanding which is important. Tools should be there to confirm what you already know.

You need to set some parameters straight there bud. What you said id purely anecdotal (no offense intended).

Your dive computer will be 1.000.000 times more accurate and precise than you EVERY SECOND in real time at all times.

Please lets keep things real for the sake of other divers that have less experience or no experience at all with the US Navy / Recreational Dive Tables. I already pointed out that a Mares Smart or an Oceanic BUD clip-on DC are around the 200€ mark, that's around the same price as a (discontinued) Seiko SKX007 or Citizen Marine Promaster.

If someone is so worried on backup instruments and safety, investing that much shouldn't be a problem.

 

[El Diablo]

My point is not every one dives with two computers and a watch can be a cheap back up option. The point I am trying to make is when the Swiss cheese lines up you want as many options as you can. Also how is it not practical or appropriate to do? If you are not following your dive plan at least decently close then you really should not be diving. Part of that dive plan is setting depth limits and turn back times following the dive tables.

Please read my other post, a backup DC cost the same or less than a dive watch while it takes away all the additional hassle. It is a misconception that DCs are expensive. They can be but not the entry level ones.