Check Valve - Need Help Installing on Alkin W31

[Hoosier]

A```ha, that is one...

We have already covered his filtration here.... You had better get two hydraulic accumulators instead of one.

 

[realdiver7]

A```ha, that is one...

We have already covered his filtration here.... You had better get two hydraulic accumulators instead of one.

Hoosier....please advise why you recommend this. I don't do that many fills because the compressor is for personal use only.

Thanks.

 

[frogman62]

Barry,
Hoosier is correct, IF, you did not have the other moisture trap and filter systems already on your compressor. The other consideration is the size of your compressor -- the low volume will be very well filtered because you will have 3 chambers in the system when you add mine.
I sell the two unit system with the first accumulator having only drying chemical (Linde 13X) and the second chamber with 80% Activated Carbon and 20% Linde 13X or the LF commercial cartridge
Adding the packable cartridge requires a fitting change because the packable cartridge and the LF cartridge have different configurations. You will see the difference when you receive them. Fitting and cartridge will be additional $16.00
Thanks,
Jim Shelden

 

[rjack321]

He advised me to keep my check valve, priority regulator, and moisture/CO indicator on my small on-board factory filtration canister. I can check for moisture at the final stage on my Lawrence Factor filter moisture monitor strip. Kinda makes sense to me, but I'm sure others will have varying opinions.

Toss the CO spot detector, its basically worthless.
The little strips that they sell with those don't turn until 40% RH is reached. That's too wet, definately wetter than grade E gas. Get yourself a 10/20/30 RH disk from Texas Technologies. 20% RH at 2200psi is roughly the grade E moisture limit.
The strip in the LF canister will never change if you are changing your primary filter at grade E limits and using the 2nd filter as a "backup". That's how I use mine. I end up changing my 2nd filter every 60 to 70 hours which is roughly is rated capacity. Fortunately it doesn't do much work, there's probably 30+ more hours of life to it. But for $45 its cheap insurance.

 

[realdiver7]

Toss the CO spot detector, its basically worthless.
The little strips that they sell with those don't turn until 40% RH is reached. That's too wet, definately wetter than grade E gas. Get yourself a 10/20/30 RH disk from Texas Technologies. 20% RH at 2200psi is roughly the grade E moisture limit.
The strip in the LF canister will never change if you are changing your primary filter at grade E limits and using the 2nd filter as a "backup". That's how I use mine. I end up changing my 2nd filter every 60 to 70 hours which is roughly is rated capacity. Fortunately it doesn't do much work, there's probably 30+ more hours of life to it. But for $45 its cheap insurance.

Sounds like a good idea. Thanks for the tip!

 

[rjack321]

oops weird double post

 

[pescador775]

20% RH at 2200psi is roughly the grade E moisture limit.

rjack, do you have a published source for this or was it calculated independently? I was not aware that CGA grade E specified a pressure level which correllates with the moisture limit. However, the Europeans have dual moisture requirements under EN12201 which depend on final cylinder pressure and but I'm not up to date on this; I wonder about the current specific level specified for 200 bar, eg if they have actually lowered the volumetric humidity to the level of 20 mg/m3 @ 200 bar and 15 mg/m3 @ >200 bar as they were planning to do. These levels would be equivalent to 20% RH at 200 bar and 300 bar respectively at temp of about 24C. Furthermore, the numbers should be equivalent to dew point of about 0 C at the respective pressures. That is the point, really, to restrict condensation in cylinders of high and very high pressure ratings to fairly low ambient temps.

 

[pescador775]

Realdiver, over the past couple years I've done several experiments and performed some calculations while attempting to avoid what you are doing. I will never install humidity meters, CO strips or organic gas sniffers but those who do such things interest me. As I fill a limited number of tanks, and not having a commercial, liability sensitive operation, I simply watch the hours and service the compressor accordingly. I also inspect tank interiors now and then. It may be of interest that I've estimated that one ounce of desiccant will function satisfactorily over a duration of 10 average size tanks, possibly 12. This information may be of use to you. Also, it would be of interest on my part to hear of the results of strip testing, etc. Ideally, some assurance could be provided that the bearer of such results were operating and maintaining equipment and chemicals in a prudent fashion. If this is uncertain, then at a minimum, report actual results and include any possible screw ups like forgetting to close all vents and ports while idle or forgetting to operate drains efficiently and timely. The list is long but any info may be useful, especially details as to the size and composition of filters, the type of compressor, operational data such as temperature, etc.
TIA
Pesky

 

[frogman62]

Pesky and all,
I have done air quality testing for the Wichita Fire Dept for many years using TRI Air Testing Inc. for independent results from a certified lab. All testing was done with low volume air flow 6-10 cfm at 10-12 psi. Results to pass grade E specs require: water (ppmv) to be less than 24 and water (dew point) to be colder than -65 F. Other info includes: O2 vol% =19.2-23.5, CO = (ppmv)<10, CO2(ppmv) <1000, oil mist(mg/m3) <5, particulate(mg/m3) <5, and no pronounced odor.
Fire departments who work when air temperatures outside are -20F do not want their regulators freezing up -- the diver underwater is never going to have that occur.
Jim Shelden

 

[frogman62]

BTH just for information -- I also tested my two accumulator filter system after 25 hours of 6CFM compressor run time and was still better than grade E specs.
Jim