I saw this video of John Hoover, in a surge on Nakalele Point, Maui. Has anyone else experienced something this dramatic? Worse? What did you do?
[video=youtube_share;rNE-27wY9Js]http://youtu.be/rNE-27wY9Js[/video]
I was in a surge at least that bad in Tobago many years ago.....The only "safe" way to handle this, is being flat on the bottom and hanging on to rocks or coral with gloves, when each wave passes over. While not eco-friendly if the rocks are coral, that is not your issue if you found yourself in this situation. You absolutely do NOT stay "near" the tops of the rocks like this guy in the video did, because of the possibility/probability that you would get tossed into a rock at high speed, and you would be "damaged" significantly. And too high up above the rocks, and you could get pulled into the upward directed current of the wave, and be sent up toward the surface in a potentially fatal washing machine effect..... When my buddy an I were traversing an area like this, we never came up as high as the diver in the video--that made GREAT VIDEO, but it is just too likely you would be injured....near the bottom 2 feet to the sand, the current is much less, the major surge is over the tops of the rocks--so being under this is a form of cover.....At least it was in Tobago, and it looks like a very similar hydraulic environment.
When waves are this big, you can move 20 to 40 feet by emergency speed swimming( near the bottom), until you see the shadow coming, which is the next big wave/surge. In the 2nd half of your speed burst, you are looking for your best handholds, and best rocks to become one with, for each wave. You don't want to be in a "surf zone" like this for long.
The one I was in was about 100 yards worth, to get into a vast 4 football field size enclave full of more fish than any place I have ever seen in my life. The waves were like 40 foot rollers, many breaking.
This was a place where three major currents converge about 3 miles out --someone familiar with Tobago may know the area I am speaking of.
I do have to say, this is an awesome video, and my hat is off to both the videographer and his "stunt man" with camera, in the video!!!!!!!