Buying my first regulator

[Sagi]

Are you still thinking of buying used? If so, you should decide your budget and see what's available. Unless you are buying directly from a shop that has serviced it, you should figure in the cost of a service when setting your budget.

What is the averege cost of service and how often do you need to do it?

I know that different regs has different service times, where can I see info regarding that?

 

[Angelo Farina]

What is the averege cost of service and how often do you need to do it?

I know that different regs has different service times, where can I see info regarding that?

Are you planning to service yourself? (as I highly recommend to technically-oriented people - it is your life, better that you are responsible for it, not an unknown technician of dubious skillness).
In this case you just need to source some critical parts (such as seats and O-rings) on the Internet. For original SP parts, consider 20 eur for 2nd stage and 15 eur for first stage.
If relying on a shop, expect much higher costs, something as 100 eur for servicing a whole set (1 first stage, 2 second stages). Perhaps even more, depending on where you live. A phone call at your LDS can give this info in minutes.
When diving in Mediterranean sea (very salt) consider that servicing is required at least every two years. Possibly every year if you have an unsealed fist stage piston, as some salt tends to grow inside it despite soaking carefully.

 

[lowwall]

What is the averege cost of service and how often do you need to do it?

I know that different regs has different service times, where can I see info regarding that?

You'll need to check typical service costs with the shop that will be doing the repairs. Prices are all over the place. To give you a really rough idea, figure $100-$150 to service a full regset.

Most of the regs mentioned have a 2-year or 100 dive published service interval. Even the ones that originally came with a 1-year interval have typically been pushed out to two when updated with current service parts.

If you are buying new, you need to observe this service interval to preserve your warranty. If you buy used, it's up to you. Many of us service on condition, meaning we wait until the reg exhibits signs it needs to be serviced before taking it in. Regs will keep working well for a long time if you take care of them.

 

[shurite7]

So those regs are pretty much in the same level as the mk17/C370 and mk11/C370?

For the most part, yes, with the exception of the Aqualung Core. When it comes to cold water the Mk17 / G260 or A700 along with Poseidon’s X-Stream hold up very well for performance. I always thought Apeks did too, until I witnessed otherwise. That does’t mean Apeks is not an excellent reg, it is, SP and Poseidon hold up better in cold water.

Don’t get caught up in servicing your own reg quite yet. Learn how to become a good diver, then consider servicing; one less thing to worry about. Apeks and SP have a similar policy, service the reg every two years or earlier if you dive a lot, which ever comes first. When you call the manufactures and ask them what a “lot” is, each one and each person gives a different answer. The general answer ranges from 100-200 dives.

Above, Angelo Farina stated he prefers both second stages be the same. I am also in that school of thought. I prefer my alternate to have the same performance as my primary, especially when it comes to diving in adverse conditions such as cold or moving water. Keeping both second stages the same isn’t “required” or the norm in the recreational community, but it does add simplicity and those whom you donate to will appreciate it.

 

[Cdncoldwater]

Apeks (and Aqua Lung) has parts for life, my understanding is SP does but only in certain locations, not sure of your area. I work mainly on SP, Apeks, Aqualung, Dive Rite and Shearwood regulators. If you are diving in a lot of sediment / salt l would recommend you look at a sealed diaphragm regulator. I would take Apeks over SP personally but SP is well represented globally and very good quality. An Apeks DS4 or DST with XTX40 or XTX50 2nd and Octo would be great. I also believe having the same Octo as the 2nd is the best practice for use and servicing. I dive in Canada, in the North Atlantic Ocean and have dove in waters at 2 Celsius with no freeze issues on my Apeks DS4 / XTX40 or Dive Rite XT1 / XT2 set ups so IMO they are very good cold water regulators.

 

[stepfen]

Depend on where in the Med.
In Israel water you have lots and lots of particels in the water (sand coming from the Nile delta) and the temp changes from 13 deg C in the winter to 33/35 deg C in the summer. Not to mention that the Med is the saltiest it gets right in Israel water so that probably have an effect too.

When it comes to cold water the Mk17 / G260 or A700 along with Poseidon’s X-Stream hold up very well for performance.

Just to explain myself for last time:
1. To the OP: when divers discuss regulators for "cold water" diving, by cold they mean close to freezing (i.e. below 5oC or so). There are no such temperatures in the Mediterranean. For quite a lot of divers calling 13oC cold water is an insult
2. No matter how salty or dirty the Mediterranean sea can be (believe me we have such "muck" sites here in Crete too - they are my favorite for chasing nudibranchs), an unsealed first stage (like the Mk11) will cope very well for normal use (i.e. up to few hundred dives a year, not left under the sun 24/7/365, rinse with fresh water after use, follow service intervals etc). The diaphragm that according to @BurhanMuntasser in a previous post might deteriorate if not cleaned properly is replaced during service - and I can't believe a diaphragm will have problems with normal use (as described above) between service intervals.

To sum up for the OP: if the extra money/weight/volume and trouble for servicing a sealed first stage (like Mk17) is not a problem to you, then go ahead and buy a Mk17 - it is a very good reg. But if any of these are important to you, a Mk11 will serve you just as well.

All the best

 

[Angelo Farina]

Just to explain myself for last time:
1. To the OP: when divers discuss regulators for "cold water" diving, by cold they mean close to freezing (i.e. below 5oC or so). There are no such temperatures in the Mediterranean. For quite a lot of divers calling 13oC cold water is an insult
2. No matter how salty or dirty the Mediterranean sea can be (believe me we have such "muck" sites here in Crete too - they are my favorite for chasing nudibranchs), an unsealed first stage (like the Mk11) will cope very well for normal use (i.e. up to few hundred dives a year, not left under the sun 24/7/365, rinse with fresh water after use, follow service intervals etc). The diaphragm that according to @BurhanMuntasser in a previous post might deteriorate if not cleaned properly is replaced during service - and I can't believe a diaphragm will have problems with normal use (as described above) between service intervals.

To sum up for the OP: if the extra money/weight/volume and trouble for servicing a sealed first stage (like Mk17) is not a problem to you, then go ahead and buy a Mk17 - it is a very good reg. But if any of these are important to you, a Mk11 will serve you just as well.

All the best

I would add that, if buying used, a good old MK5 will also serve him the same!
My oldest MK5 was bought in 1976 and having being serviced properly (by me) for all these years, it is still working perfectly! I have 5 MK5 and they are great regs, which you can buy used for a few bucks.
I suggest the latest models, with DIN 300 bar connector, turret with 5 ports and SPEC.
The service kit is easily available (either use the MK10 kit, or special kits made by VDH).