- Messages
- 6,797
- Reaction score
- 5,947
- # of dives
- 2500 - 4999
He's had no takers so make an offer to buy if he sends it and sell the rest to equalise or profit
Buying First Reg Set - help me compare! (Scubapro MK25/S600, Oceanic CDX5/GT3, EDX/Delta 5)
- Thread starter Arcelia
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
It'd cost an arm and a leg to post it all, but I have shot him a message. Thanks for the nudge
Cheers @BoltSnap - I do like the idea of the pre-dive/dive toggle.
For the R195, you leave the switch on the "Pre-Dive" setting all the whole time during the dive and on surface until you actually use it and the mouthpiece is in your mouth or the OOA's mouth. Same thing applies for the primary second stage, the S600. That switch is for Venturi control and it will make it much easier to continue to inhale from the second stage but it will free flow if it is activated when the second stage is out of your mouth (surface or underwater) and you will lose the air very rapidly. It is only activated (switched to "Dive" mode) when the mouth piece is in your mouth. In the S600 there is also a "cracking pressure" adjustment knob that makes it easier to start the initial flow of air, crack or open the valve, that should be turned in all the way when the regulator is out of your mouth to prevent free flow. It should be turned out (turned all the way counter clock wise) for the easiest breathing effort when you are using it and the mouthpiece is in your mouth. The "cracking pressure" knob should be turned all the way out, easiest breathing position, when you are out of the water and done with the dive during storage of the regulator. You store the regulator with the cracking pressure knob turned counter clockwise all the way out. The venturi or the "Pre-Dive" adjustment doesn't matter when the regulator is off the tank and air is turned off.
If you have a question, send me a PM.
Don't buy the lower end HOG octo. Get a Classic Second and a hose and you won't have to worry about it. The Classic with a hose is about the same price as the HOG Rec Tek octo that comes with a hose. But the Classic is adjustable and has the micro adjust that allows the seat life to be extended by tweaking it instead of the orifice. Don't worry about the yellow faceplate BS. If you want you can put a yellow hose on it. You can replace the faceplate or have it done by a dealer for a few bucks. Changing the faceplate does require the stage to be retuned just because of the difference in how it contacts the diaphragm.Definitely not the LDS coming at me with that quote - that's what I saw from an online search. Looks like I'd be able to pick up the whole first stage for $200 anyway if I went that route (but it looks like I'm going to head down the Scubapro path!).
Side note: you mentioned HOG regs, I was considering one of their Octos to replace the junk occy that'd come with the MK25/S600. They seem very affordable, but I don't know much about their reliability at the lower price end. Thoughts? (Alternatively, I'll look at a SP R095 or R195.)
Thanks for the read @Belzelbub - that was really interesting!
I did see this listing, he's on the other side of the country to me and I don't think he's keen to separate at this stage otherwise I would've made an offer on the regs
HOGclassic second stages are very good and don’t cost much.
The OP is in Australia, isn't she? Is HOG available and easily supported there? Even if available and supported there, why not get a system from one vendor to make it easier and more practical when it is time to service? Unless the dive center is an authorized and trained in both brands and stocks the service kits for both brands for all components, it will be a big pain to get the regulator and octo from a different brand serviced.
A blind 3 fingered monkey can service a HOG classic
How are they going to get the parts for just one octo.? Also, if they aren't certified by the mfg., technically they shouldn't touch it even if they are capable of servicing it. Australia isn't exactly a country next door. I don't see the point of getting a HOG octo if HOG has no support or presence there. It would make more sense to buy a brand that is supported in the OP's area even if it isn't a SP brand. I would go with a SP Octo. just to keep things easier to service and source parts for them. I have had different brands for octos and main regulators and it was a nightmare trying to synchronize the service and tuning the second stages when I had to send them to different service centers. It is much simpler and a lot less headache and much less expensive to keep it all in one family (adding a part that isn't even supported in the country is another headache and major pain to say the least). The HOG octo maybe cheaper to buy but it will cost money to ship to Australia, pay duty and then worry about how to service, WHY go through all of this for a HOG brand???
Similar threads
