Exactly. Also, when the reg is in your mouth, turn the knob "away" from you to reduce cracking pressure. Or "towards" you to increase cracking pressure (i.e. reduce free flow potential).
Thinking of replacing current regulator
- Thread starter Allen-1
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Does all this counterintuitive complicated stuff cover breathing upside down buried in sand in the desert
How about, turn knob away=more air
TURN KNOB AWAY FOR MORE AIR
But not necessarily for easier or more comfortable breathing
TURN KNOB AWAY FOR MORE AIR one instruction to remember where the obvious rest follows
Away from what???
Away from the top or the bottom
Turn it to the left, which left, not that left the other left, what if I'm using my right hand on a left handed reg
How about, turn knob away=more air
TURN KNOB AWAY FOR MORE AIR
But not necessarily for easier or more comfortable breathing
TURN KNOB AWAY FOR MORE AIR one instruction to remember where the obvious rest follows
Away from what???
Away from the top or the bottom
Turn it to the left, which left, not that left the other left, what if I'm using my right hand on a left handed reg
OP
Do not think in terms of open and close. The "knob" adjusts the compression of the poppet/seat spring. Turning the knob inward (clockwise) increases the compression on the spring and thus increases the cracking force needed to offset the seat. Turning the knob counterclockwise reduces the compression on the spring and thus reduces the cracking force.
Some people (me) disobey the regulator MM instructions and will purposely set their (primary) regulator to ever so slightly dribble air with the knob fully out. In use my G250s are turned in .5 turn on the primary and about 1 turn on the secondary. Venturi is set to "dive" for the primary and pre-dive for the secondary. I do not consider the Venturi knob/lever an adjustment, for me it is either on (dive) or off (pre-dive). I see no reason to decrease Venturi (and thus increase the WOB) with some possible few exceptions.
Most conventional (balanced or not) second stages should free flow when the purge is depressed with the Venturi set to Dive. The free flow should stop with the Venturi then turned to pre-dive.
bradlw
Contributor
I always preferred to have my reg set to basically not freeflow ever. I guess I always figured that I wanted to reduce any and all wasting of the precious gas!
Not exactly hard to breathe at all, but just a scant hint of resistance that most average non technical folks wouldn't even notice. Just enough to reduce or eliminate free flow when jumping in the water or whatever....
I've never owned a second stage regulator with the adjustment knob, and in the past I always viewd that as just another thing to get in the way... except now I wonder about it more like an adjustment for storage...to take pressure off the seat. I do like that idea
Turning the knob fully out does of course reduce the pressure of the seat on the orifice and thus may extend the life of the seat. Maybe, a little. Regulators that have seat saver functions pull the seat back off the knife edge and do extend seat life or extend the number of dives the reg stays in good tune.
One of the reasons I set my second stages to barely dribble air, not free flow, with the knob fully out is because when I store them away there is minimal pressure on the seat. That and I am very sensitive to inhalation effort and there are times I will turn that knob fully out so that I have basically 0 inches of cracking effort.
Non adjustable regulators are set somewhat differently from adjustable. Particularly for a secondary/octopus and this is generally detailed the MM/SM. As well for cold water regs but in this case to prevent or reduce the chances of icing. The MM also may also reduce the IP for the same reasons. The Delta from IP to ambient being less, there is less cooling effect and thus less chance of icing and free flow. And a free flow itself can induce icing in cold water diving.
Any time the WOB is increased by increasing cracking effort, reducing Venturi or otherwise restricting air flow upon demand then consequentially the diver's SAC will increase. No way around that. Restricting air flow can have other effects upon the diver especially over multiple or physically demanding dives, retained fluid in the lungs, headaches, reducing normal tidal volume that leads to CO2 retention.
For something like the AL 1085 second stage that does not have a cracking force adjustment and the Venturi is fixed on (and very effective!) then the primary should normally be set up at or near minimum cracking effort per the MM and the secondary/octo may be set on the stiffer side of the given range.
OP
So, here's a really stupid question - unfortunately I know it's stupid, but I don't know the answer...
The Deep6 Signature first state is substantially different from my Oceanic DX3 in a couple of ways, with the rotating turret standing out.
What is the "correct" vertical orientation of the first stage?
Should the rotating turret with the low pressure fittings be on the bottom, (which places the logo up top) - or should the HP ports be on the bottom with the rotating turret up top?
Thanks.
The Deep6 Signature first state is substantially different from my Oceanic DX3 in a couple of ways, with the rotating turret standing out.
What is the "correct" vertical orientation of the first stage?
Should the rotating turret with the low pressure fittings be on the bottom, (which places the logo up top) - or should the HP ports be on the bottom with the rotating turret up top?
Thanks.
Turret down increases head room for when you tip your head back.
If doing primary donate (7 ft, 5 ft, or 40 in hose run under your arm), run it out the end-port and angle the 1st stage slightly.
If doing primary donate (7 ft, 5 ft, or 40 in hose run under your arm), run it out the end-port and angle the 1st stage slightly.
There really isn't a right or wrong orientation. What works best for your preferred configuration is what is right for you. The regulator is going to work fine regardless of orientation.
I personally prefer my HP ports on the bottom and LP on top. I don't use the end port. I like to have the LP ports "protecting" my HP transmitter, so I mount mine essentially "upside down". I don't like to have my transmitter significantly exposed.
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