It's going cut through the webbing faster.Why not?
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
It's going cut through the webbing faster.Why not?
No it won’t, not if you do it my way.It's going cut through the webbing faster.
Well the OP DID buy a cheap plate and instead of returning it he just want’s to make it work. We’re trying to be constructive and help him do that.I asked why? It's a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.
Webbing doesn't need to be bolted down... but than I try to buy quality gear instead of looking for the cheapest, crapiest gear on alibaba and make it work somehow.
No it won’t, not if you do it my way.
When I deal with one slot to run a shoulder strap I put a keeper on the backside and run the tail and the main strap through the same slot, then it can be stitched or use another wider keeper to hold the main strap and the tail together, or not, it doesn’t matter.
Like this:
View attachment 793975
I buy cheap stuff too but is does require some research.and only buy top quality gear, good for you.
It isn’t helping here and just comes off as snipe.
The reason those plates are like that is because the original design had the shoulder straps crossing in the back. If you run the webbing naturally where it wants to go, as it leaves the plate you will see that each strap wants to go in and the natural way for them to go is to cross.So far we have Hollis, HOG, and now DGX plates having this “problem”. Not just random no name plates, although they might all use the same stamping template in the same factory. I guess people must just be freaking out now.
Add Mares to the list. I just replaced the webbing and burned a hole in the proper place.So far we have Hollis, HOG, and now DGX plates having this “problem”.