Backplate hole not aligned with harness - Bad design or bad user?

[cerich]

So far we have Hollis, HOG, and now DGX plates having this “problem”. Not just random no name plates, although they might all use the same stamping template in the same factory. I guess people must just be freaking out now.

This has been the actual standard for going on 25 years. the plates aren't the issue, it's the harness when they centre the grommet versus offset like it should be. This is a very common issue, even my suppliers when I tell them to offset will forget and I get a batch with them centred.

 

[admikar]

How can the source of the webbing make a difference? It is webbing with a grommet punched in the center of the width. Same as everyone's...

It only really matters if you need that bottom hole. if you do, you are either just pushing it out of the way or burning a hole in the webbing for a bolt.

I bought Apeks plate that came with webing. Grommet is moved to one side to align with botom hole.

 

[Jcp2]

The reason those plates are like that is because the original design had the shoulder straps crossing in the back. If you run the webbing naturally where it wants to go, as it leaves the plate you will see that each strap wants to go in and the natural way for them to go is to cross.
But the DIR guys didn’t like them crossed so they ran them straight, but they never changed the slot placement to allow for that. Then everyone else just copied the same design with the same slot placement thinking this was how it was supposed to be done. None of them looked at the wadding up of the webbing from trying to be forced to bend a way that it doesn’t like. If you look at any of hose plates with how the webbing comes out of the top slot it is tight as hell on one corner of the webbing and on the other nothing.
In order for them to be right for running the webbing straight, the two 45 degree slots need to be a lot closer in towards the middle.

So I will cross the straps then. Problem solved.

 

[eelnoraa]

I don't understand this at all. Either I am not sensitive to mismatch of bp/w hardware, or I have been very lucky never see this. The plate I have used include DiveRite, OMS, Hog, Hollis, Halycon, oxycheq, DSS, no name Chinese made .... I have never had such an issue. Eyelet always lineup within reason, althought I prefer not having the metal eyelet at all. And then what is the big deal of that eyelet doesn't line up??? It won't get in the way of anything at all.

 

[huwporter]

.

 

[JoeTPhilly]

 

[Pyndle]

Wow, I didn't mean to start a war / trigger so many comments haha

I see a lot of people asking what is the problem. It just didn't look right, that's why I was asking since it's my first time buying gear I thought maybe I was missing something. Sounds like it is not a big deal and there are ways around it, which is reassuring. And yeah it makes sense, I don't see any issues, but I'd rather confirm than find out underwater

I was going to post an update now that the harness is mounted because I have a feeling that the belt is too high (belly button level) but I'm worried it willl trigger another 10 pages if I post a photo

 

[inquis]

I was going to post an update now that the harness is mounted because I have a feeling that the belt is too high (belly button level) but I'm worried it willl trigger another 10 pages if I post a photo

Oh, for sure it will. FWIW, the crotch strap should be sized to pull the belt down. I like the top about 3 inches below the navel, but I'm sure that's not universal.

 

[Gone for diving]

I was going to post an update now that the harness is mounted because I have a feeling that the belt is too high

I have the same problem with a standard plate, long torso, long arms,
Is very hard to clip to the Dring etc.
Dropped my waist band slots.
Is so much better, and nicer,

 

[Gone for diving]

I asked why? It's a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.
Webbing doesn't need to be bolted down... but than I try to buy quality gear instead of looking for the cheapest, crapiest gear on alibaba and make it work somehow.

1 reason is if you have short chunks of webbing, it's still useable,

stand up with double 130s and a stage and watch that triglide bend and then after a few times pull through.

There is a reason for the 1 continuous piece of webbing requirements.

Well maybe you shouldn't use the cheapest and thinnest triglide.

The 1/8 thick ones will hold, your 130s stages, and yourself no problem...