Atlas gloves for Viking Bayonet Dry Glove Rings

[rye_a]

I am planning on ordering the "stripped" viking ring kit and ordering gloves from a fishing supply company.

On the website that I am ordering the rings from it looks like they typically use the Atlas 495or the Atlas 660 gloves. Can anyone tell me which is the better choice?

 

[crlavoie]

Not sure where you are planning to buy from but one of the regulars on this board (Bob3, I think) appears to be THE source for Viking Rings. Anyway, he's a hell of a nice guy and has the best pricing I've found. I just got my "stripped down" kit from him on Monday and he sells the 660's for $4 / pair. I'm not sure you can find them any cheaper than that.

You can reach him here: admin@comdive.com or check out his page at Viking Bayonet Dry Glove Ring Kits.

Everything you need to know about Bob and Viking Dry Rings:
Drygloves & Rings Info:

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We have 2 "basic" types of dryglove ring kits. The Viking "Classic", where the glove gets stretched over the outside rubber ring, and the Viking Bayonet style, the version that allows the diver to mount & unmount gloves by himself.
Both types are hazmat certified, so you can count on having dry hands with either type.
The "Classic" system (inner & outer rings) runs $68 + $8.70 postage.
They'll handle a wide range of either Viking or aftermarket unlined gloves. You just stretch the glove's cuff area over the outer rubber ring & let it snap.
I'll sometimes use a vacuum cleaner belt to make sure the glove stays in place. (Hoover "Elite type 16 for the flat or Eureka 1100 for the round)

The Bayonet System comes in a couple forms, the complete kit has a spare pair of cuffs & a couple pairs of gloves of your choice & sells for $150 + $10.35 postage.
You may not need the spare cuffs so the "stripped down" version may be the best for you, it runs $87.50 + $8.70 postage (without the cuffs or gloves).
We have a good assortment of gloves here & can add any of those to your order, basically they start at $16/pair for the "Blue Smurf"/Showa/Atlas (#495) with the cozy liners & $4 for a plain pair of gloves (like the #660) with no liners. Light weight Poly liners are $4 per pair.
There are also the green PVC "Froggy" gloves in size Large ($4), along with some spiffy poly-fleece liners ($4).

We also have a few other styles of rubber gloves, like the Viking 5-finger; a heavy latex rubber for more severe duty.
Many aftermarket varieties of gloves will work, such as Harbor Freight's $5 - $6 "sandblasting gloves" that will need to have the gauntlet cut down.
Spare cuffs run $32/pair if/when needed. Some folks like to keep at least 1 spare cuff handy. If stored properly you should have no problem seeing spare cuffs last 5 years or better.
More info on the Bayonet and pics of both types can be found at: Trelleborg Viking
More specifically the rings are at: Trelleborg Viking
The heavy rubber 5-finger gloves, 2-finger mitts & 3-finger mitts are at: Trelleborg Viking
We stock only the heavy rubber 5-finger from Viking but 3-finger latex mitts are available; the more common sport use Smurf/Showa/Atlas/Froggy are aftermarket provisions. To purchase send email with your shipping address for exact shipping cost; we charge as close to actual postage as possible.
We gladly ship internationally with the US Postal Service being our primary choice.

One of our customers has, at our request, posted an online instruction set for the installation of the Viking Bayonet Dryglove System that is superior to the often-confusing printed instructions that come with the rings.
See: http://www.scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=192634

If you'd like more info or want to order, email works the best/fastest for us. Copy & paste the text here into an email to: admin@comdive.com

 

[rye_a]

Thanks. Bob's the guy I'm planning on going to!

 

[bryanmc57]

I got my rings from Bob3 as well. As far as gloves go, Seattle Marine Supply has an awesome selection. Here's a link to the 660s.

https://www.seattlemarine.net/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=982&idproduct=1801

 

[fdog]

Generally, the glove choice seems to be based on:

• How it fits
• Personal preference for glove liners
• The durability/freedom of movement tradeoff

The 495 outer (blue waterproof part) is sized to fit the glove liner that comes with it. The glove w/ liner is about $20 IIRC. I know a couple of divers that use this and they're happy as clams. I found the gold liner not quite warm enough for me, and a bit loose. The glove is triple-dipped, like the 660, which is both a good and bad thing depending on your perspective (see below). The price is a bit steep, too, by comparison with the 660 and 620's.

The 660 (blue) is what you get if you already have fleece or wool gloves that you're happy with. They are triple dipped, and hence rather durable, but tend to be a bit stiffer and not as dexterious as the 620's. I'd say I see these used by about 70% of the divers. What can I say? A workhorse.

The 620 (orange) is only double dipped, so they're thinner. There is qute a bit of difference in ease of motion, with the trade off of course that there is greater chance of a slice or puncture. These make valve drills like cheating. I haven't had to switch to my backup pair because of a leak, but I replace them annually. The tradeoff of more dexterity for less durability has been a good one for me. These seeem to be about 15% of the gloves in use. They're about the same price as the 660's, 3 and a half dollars or so.

The sizes (especially when worn over toasty warm glove liners) seem to be a bit whacked. I bought a bunch of sizes from Seattle Marine just to find the perfect size, they're that inexpensive. A couple of sizes larger than your glove liner size is a good starting point.

Hope this helps.


All the best, James

 

[TSandM]

For whatever reason, I have also found that the blue gloves have longer fingers (for the same size glove) than the orange ones. That's why I use the orange ones and put up with the fact that I replace the right one several times a year because of pinhole leaks around the wrist. Don't ask me why it's always the right one, because I don't have an answer. I don't lobster or anything where I'm using my right hand in a situation where the glove should be damaged. But it's always the right one that leaks. I have a whole collection of left gloves now!

 

[rye_a]

Do bicycle tube patches work to repair he 495s? I wouldn't worry much about the $3-4 dollar models, but It seems like it would be worth patching a $16 glove.

 

[ClayJar]

Don't ask me why it's always the right one, because I don't have an answer. I don't lobster or anything where I'm using my right hand in a situation where the glove should be damaged. But it's always the right one that leaks. I have a whole collection of left gloves now!

I know the feeling. I've got a collection of fake Crocs. For some reason, I always break something with the strap on the left shoe. *Always* the left. I have at least five broken left shoes and zero broken rights, although I may have lost count somewhere.

Do you use the Viking bayonet rings? I've got SI-Tech rings, but I'm seriously considering swapping out for the Viking bayonets, as the SI-Techs are annoying to get on and off. (I haven't spent much on scuba recently, so I'm due for a purchase. )

 

[TSandM]

I use the Viking bayonets, and I adore them. After seeing people using just about any system out there, I'm convinced this one is the best. Easy to install and remove (I talked somebody through it on line in about five minutes last night), and a positive lock system, so that you can have a glove pop off once you're in the water. I've had plenty of glove leaks, but no problems related to the rings, except when I'm careless and let grit get in them.

 

[chaOs85]

Any good advice on good gloves for the classic viking system? The viking gloves are expensive!