Approximate cost of Tank Tumbling?

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Servicing every 5 years sounds good and may be recommended by the manufacturers (it's easy and i do it periodically myself) but it's typically not what happens in the real world.

I can imagine the cries of "money grab" if LDS started charging $25 + parts for a mandatory valve overhaul during every hydro. People think they are already raking in enough millions from VIPs, tumbling etc. Lol
If I was an LDS, I'd just up the cost of the hydro $10 to cover the cost of the burst disk from DGX (I think like $8-9?) and say hydro includes hydro testing, checking valve function, replacing the valve's burst disk with one at the proper rating for the service pressure (I've seen a few that didn't jive), VIP and fill. Yeah, It's a tiny little bit more than the shop down the street charges, but ask what checkup or service they include to the valve. Or more likely, the shop down the street ups their price as soon as they hear I upped mine without adding a thing to their service, just adding to their owner's multibajillion dollar surplus. Or I can tell them that for $15 more to cover the oring, packing washer, crush gasket and new valve seat, I can do a full rebuild of the valve. But the burst disk, IMHO, is a non-negotiable service item at the time of hydro.
 
You have a point but most people are highly resistant to change, especially when it lightens their wallet for little/no increase in perceived value.
 
re: Valve servicing - I need to learn how to do that, though it's not the highest priority at the moment. I have numerous spare valves, if one of my valves did suddenly start having problems.

I believe my dive-buddy had a valve leak once, though that was a few years ago, and I didn't really look into what the problem was.
If I was an LDS, I'd just up the cost of the hydro $10 to cover the cost of the burst disk from DGX (I think like $8-9?) and say hydro includes hydro testing, checking valve function, replacing the valve's burst disk with one at the proper rating for the service pressure (I've seen a few that didn't jive), VIP and fill.
Something LDS around here do a bad job of, is really describing what a service includes. IMO, if you properly describe the service, that sounds like a good deal.

That said, my one hesitation is knowing how some LDS actually operate from bad experiences, and watching local price-creep especially in the last 2 years. Yeah, sure LDS aren't making millions on VIPs but that doesn't mean the $30, $35 (and climbing) prices aren't getting ridiculous. I'd trust you, but I don't trust some of these other ones I've had to deal with.

(As an aside, I quit another hobby, because at the beginning of covid, 5 local events just took my money no-service and no-refund. I lost about $1000 because they apparently "needed the money more than me," and I was the bad-guy for complaining.)
 
re: Valve servicing - I need to learn how to do that, though it's not the highest priority at the moment. I have numerous spare valves, if one of my valves did suddenly start having problems.
As with tank inspection, valve service is dead easy. It basically comes down to having an ultrasonic cleaner, a vise, a torque wrench (I got all three of these as cheap-o units from Harbor Freight), and having the ability to insert parts in the correct order. 'Tain't no big thang.
 
As with tank inspection, valve service is dead easy. It basically comes down to having an ultrasonic cleaner, a vise, a torque wrench (I got all three of these as cheap-o units from Harbor Freight), and having the ability to insert parts in the correct order. 'Tain't no big thang.

If I can learn to do it, and I have, it is drop dead simple. I have the mechanical IQ of a gnat, but I learned quite easily to service valves. As is mentioned above, it is just a matter of learning the various parts (there aren't that many), how to clean them and what order they are assembled. Even replacing the burst assembly is the equivalence of screwing in a light bulb, just to a very specific tolerance with a torque wrench.
 
Update: I took and passed the "VIP" class, or to be precise "Visual Cylinder Inspector Course" (online) which I took from American Cylinder and Safety. Based on my research, it's $325 no matter where you take it from, so a little more than I'd prefer to spend but you probably won't save any money shopping around.

Normally I fall asleep in classes, but despite being 2-days 4-hours each wasn't bad at all. Taking the class from Myles it was easy to follow and I wasn't bored or overwhelmed at any time. Most of the "new to me" info was on day-2, and Myles was cool with followup questions, calls, or 2nd opinions needed at a later date. I even got some questions answered about a "craigslist special" tank I have sitting around, and how to do tumbling. So, overall I'd give him a great review if anyone else is considering taking the course.

Anyway, once I have a chance to pick up my tanks, I'll give an update on whatever I do for tumbling. Because of relatively small volume, I'm guessing I'll use one of the "whip" methods, though I probalby need to pick up my tanks and see the insides first before making a decision.
 
Update: I took and passed the "VIP" class, or to be precise "Visual Cylinder Inspector Course" (online) which I took from American Cylinder and Safety. Based on my research, it's $325 no matter where you take it from, so a little more than I'd prefer to spend but you probably won't save any money shopping around.

Normally I fall asleep in classes, but despite being 2-days 4-hours each wasn't bad at all. Taking the class from Myles it was easy to follow and I wasn't bored or overwhelmed at any time. Most of the "new to me" info was on day-2, and Myles was cool with followup questions, calls, or 2nd opinions needed at a later date. I even got some questions answered about a "craigslist special" tank I have sitting around, and how to do tumbling. So, overall I'd give him a great review if anyone else is considering taking the course.

Anyway, once I have a chance to pick up my tanks, I'll give an update on whatever I do for tumbling. Because of relatively small volume, I'm guessing I'll use one of the "whip" methods, though I probalby need to pick up my tanks and see the insides first before making a decision.

Questions:

1. Was the certification his company's certification or from PSI or TDI?

2. Do you get a textbook to go with the course?

3. Does he go over tank tumbling in detail in the course?
 
Questions:

1. Was the certification his company's certification or from PSI or TDI?

2. Do you get a textbook to go with the course?

3. Does he go over tank tumbling in detail in the course?
  1. PSI-PCI
  2. I received (1) a printed workbook with the slides, and (2) a book "Inspecting Cylinders" by William L High & Mark A Gresham 5th Edition. We only used the slides during the class. Skimming the book, it seems fairly concise, each chapter being only a few pages each with pictures and diagrams.
  3. He did cover the subject some detail, including the media he uses, rinsing and drying the cylinder, whips, and answered questions that myself and other students had. Though the level-of-detail wasn't what I'd describe as a "tumbling class", but he covered most of what was described in this thread.
You'll also need some tools for the class, although after taking the class IMO, I could have done the class with just a small 2x dental mirror and a decent flashlight, so long as the tanks you inspect don't have any pitting. Some Molykote 111 and o-rings the proper size and duro for the valve/neck can't hurt either, but weren't required for the class.
 
Some Molykote 111 and o-rings the proper size and duro for the valve/neck can't hurt either, but weren't required for the class.
That.

An alternative if you ever plan to run EANx or higher O2 concentrations might be TribalLube 71 or some version of Critterlube.

But that's just me - I only use the TribalLube and viton o-rings to simplify my on-hand stock of shi - er - stuff.
 

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