Approximate cost of Tank Tumbling?

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Boat rollers,
SS punch outs, from local fab shop,
 

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Thanks for the info. I think I'll look at the tanks, and see how bad the rust is. If it's pretty bad, I might pay for the tumble. If it's less bad, it might make sense to get one of those whips.

I did decide to take the VIP class, because VIP prices locally are getting absurd. It's also perhaps helpful to actually know what I'm taking about when it comes to tanks and inspections. Especailly after a very bad experience where a shop condemned a tank because it was manufactured in 1988. Not because of any flaw in the tank. I argued with the shop, but ultimately had to leave because my buddy was waiting for me at the dive-site. They REFUSED to hand over the tank. I'm still pissed about that, and had about a dozen different VIP-trailed people tell me that was absolutely improper and reccomended reporting them to PSI-PCI.
Do you know if the course goes through valve cleaning?
 
I did an online course with these folks:


What agency do they use?
 
One thing to keep in mind. Some shops will not fill tanks if the VIP was not done by an actual shop with a branded VIP sticker. I've seen shops refuse to fill self-VIPed tanks event when the person can verify their certification. Something to be aware of. It is their compressor/bank and their rules. Many of the folks who do self-VIPs also own their own compressors.
I've certainly heard of that happening. If I ran into that, I think the first thing I'd do is tell them to look up my number on PSI/PCI, and if they still refused, then it would probably be a deal-killer. I've also thought about going the route of buying a compressor too, though it's a little hard for me to justify financially right now.

having tumbled a pair of tanks before, the amount of labor and time involved totally justifies charging 50 to 60 bucks.

if you want to save a bit of money, find a hydro place that can blast the tanks with walnut shells instead. its quicker and generally only runs about 20 to 30 bucks because its a much simpler procedure.

or if you already have an oil free shop compressor, to build your own blasting setup
I've done sand-blasting before, though what I have done would not work great for the inside of a scuba-tank.

Do you know if the course goes through valve cleaning?
I didn't ask. That I'm less concerned about at the moment, and I've serviced my own regulators, so can't imagine that's any more complicated.
 
I've certainly heard of that happening. If I ran into that, I think the first thing I'd do is tell them to look up my number on PSI/PCI, and if they still refused, then it would probably be a deal-killer.

Yea, I did the same. But just be aware that the "deal-killer" might mean you don't dive any more on that trip. Some dive destinations don't have a large number of shops to choose from. The operator you are diving with may be the only one. If you need fills and they won't fill your tanks, you don't dive.

Just something to be aware of. If you ever find yourself traveling to a location like this with your own tanks (you'd obviously be driving), just call ahead and ask.

I just wanted to make sure you are aware of the risk. For me, the time and effort to VIP my own tanks (I own 10 of them), just isn't worth it relative the cost of a shop VIP. Others are different. This is very much a personal decision.
 
I didn't ask. That I'm less concerned about at the moment, and I've serviced my own regulators, so can't imagine that's any more complicated.
Its generally not a problem, but I've seen plenty of valves come through with minimal or no servicing, causing breakages and issues with the burst discs. The servicing is fairly simple - dismantle, ultrasonic clean, reassemble with appropriate new parts.
There are a couple of tips and tricks, as with reg servicing, but in general if people are getting their tanks Vized I recommend a valve service at the same time (or every 2 yrs, similar to regs) because most people generally neglect rinsing their valves.

Its the cork in your pressurized bottle - personally I think its equally valuable to service and most people neglect them.
 
Its generally not a problem, but I've seen plenty of valves come through with minimal or no servicing, causing breakages and issues with the burst discs. The servicing is fairly simple - dismantle, ultrasonic clean, reassemble with appropriate new parts.
There are a couple of tips and tricks, as with reg servicing, but in general if people are getting their tanks Vized I recommend a valve service at the same time (or every 2 yrs, similar to regs) because most people generally neglect rinsing their valves.

Its the cork in your pressurized bottle - personally I think its equally valuable to service and most people neglect them.
Valves need to be serviced at 5 year intervals, usually in conjunction with hydro. I contacted both Thermo/XS and San-o-Sub/Blue Steel directly to ask as I couldn't find literature on it. Response from both established the 5 year interval.

IIRC, PSI didn't take a position other than saying the burst disk needs to be replaced at every 5 year hydro interval. I know a lot of folks that never touch the valves, many of them local dive shops. I once asked what they charged and none could really tell me as that was not an issue they ever faced.

PSI has a separate valve technician class. I got it as a CYA thing if ever questioned and can point to a certificate over the bench. Valves are really really simple. My takeaway from it - two things - select the right burst disk for the service pressure of the tank and properly torque it; second - properly torque the packing nut. Oh, and the other second thing, like any crush washer app, those can only be torqued once and then discarded. Follow the valve manufacturer's specs on their exploded parts diagrams, just like rebuilding a reg. Only much simpler.

They have a separate O2 cleaning course as that is a different service and outside the scope of doing a visual inspection.

But, and it's a big but.... If you watch certain places like DGX, you can occasionally find their bargain basement 2-for-1 valve deals half price so a new valve is not much more than parts to rebuild. Just saying. And you can send me the old valves you replace. I hate to see machined and chromed brass, perfectly servicable, discarded.
 
Valves need to be serviced at 5 year intervals, usually in conjunction with hydro. I contacted both Thermo/XS and San-o-Sub/Blue Steel. Response from both established the 5 year interval.
directly to ask as I couldn't find literature on it.

IIRC, PSI didn't take a position other than saying the burst disk needs to be replaced at every 5 year hydro interval. I know a lot of folks that never touch the valves, many of them local dive shops. I once asked what they charged and non could really tell me as that was not an issue they ever faced.

PSI has a separate valve technician class. I got it as a CYA thing if ever questioned and can point to a certificate over the bench. Valves are really really simple. My takeaway from it - two things - select the right burst disk for the service pressure of the tank and properly torque it; second - properly torque the packing nut. Oh, and the other second thing, like any crush washer app, those can only be torqued once and then discarded. Follow the valve manufacturer's specs on their exploded parts diagrams, just like rebuilding a reg. Only much simpler.

They have a separate O2 cleaning course as that is a different service and outside the scope of doing a visual inspection.

But, and it's a big but.... If you watch certain places like DGX, you can occasionally find their bargain basement 2-for-1 valve deals half price so a new valve is not much more than parts to rebuild. Just saying. And you can send me the old valves you replace. I hate to see machined and chromed brass, perfectly servicable, discarded.
5 yrs? Interesting. I’ve always done 2 (but I dive a lot), so good to know I’m on the conservative side of that.
Will adjust recommendations for others.
 
Valves are binary - they work or they don't work. Aside from a burst disc failure (very rare when a tank is being used rather than filled) a valve is not going to fail during a dive.

The most common failure i have seen on them is the stem o ring leaking (bubblle from under the handle, minimal gas loss) and the stem getting rounded off so the handle does not open/close the valve (you can take the handle off and turn the stem with pliers in a pinch).

Servicing every 5 years sounds good and may be recommended by the manufacturers (it's easy and i do it periodically myself) but it's typically not what happens in the real world.

I can imagine the cries of "money grab" if LDS started charging $25 + parts for a mandatory valve overhaul during every hydro. People think they are already raking in enough millions from VIPs, tumbling etc. Lol
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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