Apeks XTX lever height

[buddhasummer]

Like I said, DST body is 35€, replaceable HP valve seat is 12€. Initial price difference between the two is enough for 5 or so first stage bodies to get even. I don't think I will ever dive enough to expend 5 regulators. As for your other points, I can accept your point on turret failure point. Hose routing with 5th port on both is about the same.

Barrel twist is almost always a result of over torque of said nut.

I respectfully disagree with your last sentence, they twist very easily, even under the max spec recommended 3Nm. Apeks changing the torque setting from 5Nm to3Nm, changed nothing, it still twists, just less.

 

[buddhasummer]

As I said, there are other manufacturers that avoided that issue altogether using proper engineering solutions.

For the record I dive both XTX and G250s. Whilst neither is the "best", don't know if it's even possible to call any reg the best, breathing wise, design wise and servicing wise I prefer the G250. If I had to give one up, it would be the XTX.

 

[admikar]

Cracking Pressure Test: Absent a Magnehelic gauge, Venturi lever set on max +, Adjusting Screw (Inhalation knob) set to max open (counter clockwise), slowly submerge the 2nd stage mouthpiece facing up. The 2nd stage should very slightly hiss out gas when the waterline reaches the cover line (where the case cover meets the body). And increase the gas output as the 2nd stage is further submerged and finally freeflows before the waterline reaches the mouthpiece opening.

Would you mind posting a picture of this,I'm having problem understanding this?

 

[Couv]

Would you mind posting a picture of this,I'm having problem understanding this?

Not to be a butt-in-ski the "sink test" is shown in an excerpt of Vance Harlow's Scuba Regulator Maintenance and Repair on the web page where this excellent book is sold.
SCUBA REG MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR Excerpts

 

[admikar]

Not to be a butt-in-ski the "sink test" is shown in an excerpt of Vance Harlow's Scuba Regulator Maintenance and Repair on the web page where this excellent book is sold.
SCUBA REG MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR Excerpts

I understand sink test, what I don't understand is where is the cover line?

 

[Couv]

where is the cover line?

Most second stage cases have two parts. The main body and the cover that screws onto it. Where the two parts meet will form a line. Generally speaking, that is also where the diaphragm is also located. How far below water this line goes (with the mouthpiece up) when the reg begins to freeflow will give a rough estimate of the cracking pressure.

 

[admikar]

@couv, i thought so, but wasn't sure. Today I played with my XTX 50, and in no way I could get hissing at cover line. I mean I could, but then reg would not pass tool test (no flow side). If I tune it to tool test, it would start hissing somewhere at the bottom of XTX decal and freeflowing just below top of the decal. IP is set just a tad below 10 bar.

 

[Macan]

@couv, i thought so, but wasn't sure. Today I played with my XTX 50, and in no way I could get hissing at cover line. I mean I could, but then reg would not pass tool test (no flow side). If I tune it to tool test, it would start hissing somewhere at the bottom of XTX decal and freeflowing just below top of the decal. IP is set just a tad below 10 bar.

Using the Lever Tool will set it to factory specs. If you have a Lever Tool (which you seem to have), adjust the Metal Seat to meet the Flow/NoFlow test of the tool and you're done. You have a good functioning reg as the manufacturer intended. However, if you want to further tune your reg to be a bit more on the sensitive/aggressive side, then you can "tune" it out further (counterclockwise). This will decrease the WOB. But if you do this, you will be outside the factory specs and obviously not pass the Lever Tool test.

My suggestion, unless you know what you're doing and carry the needed tools and spare parts whenever you dive, stick to the factory specs by using the Lever Tool to set the Lever Height. If you try to tune the XTX manually (ie ignoring the tool), be prepared for good and some bad behaviour. The good - if you set it at its sweet spot, your WOB will be less, the reg will deliver a good flow at the slightest inhalation effort. The bad - if not set right, it may start to dribble gas (can be controlled by detuning it through the user knob) or leak. Be aware that the manual tuning without a Lever Tool will be several series of adjustments to find the sweet spot. The constant adjustment (ie clockwise and counter clockwise turns) of the Metal Seat will take a toll on your Silicone Seat causing it to have different "sets". This could lead to all sorts of issues as I described earlier and worse case, your reg will act like it is possessed , will need to be disassembled and the Silicone Seat will most likely need to be replaced.

 

[admikar]

Using the Lever Tool will set it to factory specs. If you have a Lever Tool (which you seem to have), adjust the Metal Seat to meet the Flow/NoFlow test of the tool and you're done. You have a good functioning reg as the manufacturer intended. However, if you want to further tune your reg to be a bit more on the sensitive/aggressive side, then you can "tune" it out further (counterclockwise). This will decrease the WOB. But if you do this, you will be outside the factory specs and obviously not pass the Lever Tool test.

My suggestion, unless you know what you're doing and carry the needed tools and spare parts whenever you dive, stick to the factory specs by using the Lever Tool to set the Lever Height. If you try to tune the XTX manually (ie ignoring the tool), be prepared for good and some bad behaviour. The good - if you set it at its sweet spot, your WOB will be less, the reg will deliver a good flow at the slightest inhalation effort. The bad - if not set right, it may start to dribble gas (can be controlled by detuning it through the user knob) or leak. Be aware that the manual tuning without a Lever Tool will be several series of adjustments to find the sweet spot. The constant adjustment (ie clockwise and counter clockwise turns) of the Metal Seat will take a toll on your Silicone Seat causing it to have different "sets". This could lead to all sorts of issues as I described earlier and worse case, your reg will act like it is possessed , will need to be disassembled and the Silicone Seat will most likely need to be replaced.

Thanks for explanation. I have an upcoming trip in two weeks, reg is almost due for a service anyway, have the tools and spare parts. So, play with old seat and learn from it, put new one in and have a good breathing reg. Scubaboard rules!

 

[race890]

I usually just set it flush with the top of the case then use the microadjuster to set cracking effort to 1.25 or thereabouts. This usually works for me. I have the go/no go tester but don't usually use it.

So do you mean that you have the AT20f lever height tool but prefer not to use it? I am asking to know if I should buy the tool for XTX, TX & ATX