Apeks XTX lever height

[buddhasummer]

I tried out my regulators and I'm pretty sure he just checked the IP (he said 135) and screwed in the hoses. The low pressure inflator was on the wrong hp port (would work if I dive with the environmental seal up) and I got the following results to your checklist:

1. Nope. Double nope. I couldn't get either my primary or octo to freeflow no matter what I did out of water. In fact, when I push the purge on the side instead of middle for the half purge, I get NO purge. No massive flow when holding the purge button either, fairly told.

2. This worked fine. Both second stages would freeflow if I held the purge underwater for a second while they face up. I had to hold the purge a second though, and they would stop slowly and dribble a bit, but then stop freeflowing in a second or two.

3. No problems. Harder to breath but could still get air on demand.

4. No leaking or dribbling.

5. Primary starts to hiss air maybe halfway in. Full flow just before mouthpiece becomes submerged. Octo is a little more sensitive.

Can a shop return regulators only used once in their pool? Or am I screwing the shop by doing that? I got a killer deal but I'm really starting to wish I had paid more at the other dive shop because I'm not sure how much confidence I have now.

Re your #1: A properly tuned Apeks second stage will not free flow if you push the purge button, it needs to be tapped rapidly.

 

[Scuba Doobie Do]

properly tuned

Wouldn't that be nice...

I met this guy face to face and instantly regretted my purchase. He told me if I wanted him to flip the hoses so I could dive with the environmental seal down, that it would cost more to service because that's where you adjust it...

Then he reluctantly flipped the hoses and asked what else I needed. I told him that I needed the lever height adjusted, and that I'd like him to measure the opening effort.

"What's that? You can't adjust that!"

So I showed him that the purge buttons wouldn't work on a half push and kindly explained that it should be flowing. A really dumb look later and I say, where's your manual I'll show you exactly what I'm talking about...

"I don't need no manual" says the "technician"

A brief phonecall later with his rep and I confirmed this guy literally knew nothing about the regulator. I asked for my money back and will be purchasing it from another LDS which is very reputable (and the owner actually dives Apeks). I should have known not to try and save money between two shops at the risk of service.

Lever height = important

It's nice to see so much collaboration on here from people who stoves to be better when there are so many dive shops doing so little.

 

[sh1513]

Wouldn't that be nice...

I met this guy face to face and instantly regretted my purchase. He told me if I wanted him to flip the hoses so I could dive with the environmental seal down, that it would cost more to service because that's where you adjust it...

Then he reluctantly flipped the hoses and asked what else I needed. I told him that I needed the lever height adjusted, and that I'd like him to measure the opening effort.

"What's that? You can't adjust that!"

So I showed him that the purge buttons wouldn't work on a half push and kindly explained that it should be flowing. A really dumb look later and I say, where's your manual I'll show you exactly what I'm talking about...

"I don't need no manual" says the "technician"

A brief phonecall later with his rep and I confirmed this guy literally knew nothing about the regulator. I asked for my money back and will be purchasing ifo another LDS which is very reportable (and the owner actually dives Apeks). I should have known not to try and save money between two shops at the risk of service.

Lever height = important

It's nice to see so much collaboration on here from people who stoves to be better when there are so many dive shops doing so little.

WTAF???? cost more to service because that's where you adjust it... what a complete joker!!!

 

[Macan]

A brief phonecall later with his rep and I confirmed this guy literally knew nothing about the regulator. I asked for my money back and will be purchasing it from another LDS which is very reputable (and the owner actually dives Apeks). I should have known not to try and save money between two shops at the risk of service.

Try to do the test I outlined earlier before buying the Reg. It is not uncommon for the Reg to be detuned out of the box. They just simply have to use the lever height tool to set it. Quick simple process. The FSR first stage and XTX second stage are the best Reg system in the market IMO. .

 

[admikar]

@Macan, in your opinion, why is FSR better that FST or DST? Replaceable HP valve seat is only thing I can think of, and for prices I can get for DST body(35€), it takes a lot of broken first stages to compensate for initial price difference.

 

[Macan]

I think any Apeks first stage will serve you well. However, I prefer the FSR for the following reasons:

1. Super easy to maintain and service as compared to a DST. Turrent serves as another point of failure, bulk and weight.

2. Streamlined hose routing for Singles or Doubles. An FSR with a 5th port is just perfect for Doubles and this is with a bulky Transmitter on the right post and a standard SPG HP hose on the left post.

3. The replaceable HP Valve Seat protects your investment. I've had and seen broken Valve Seats in US4/DS4. You will need to replace the Body if this happens as the Valve Seat is moulded as part of the body. A broken Valve seat will lead to unacceptable IP creep and serious issues. Broken valve seats are more common than most people think. Divers may not even realize that they have a broken valve seat and an IP that's creeping up to unacceptable levels. The regulator will continue to breathe normally because the increasing IP pressure creep drops back when you inhale. Until one day, something gives (the increasing and building IP has to go somewhere - 2nd stage leak or uncontrollable free flow, fittings leak, hose burst, first stage seal leaks, LPI leak causing a BCD auto inflate situation, etc.).

What is the primary cause of a broken HP Valve Seat? Anytime you open the tank valve to pressurize the regulator system, the HP Valve (piston shaped part) forcefully contacts the HP Valve Seat. Over time, the HP seat weakens due to age (multiple contact with the HP Valve) particularly if salt water unsuspectingly or inadvertently enters the first stage and corrodes/weakens the seat. This is why divers should be trained to slowly open the tank valve when pressurizing the system. What I teach my students is to press the purge button of the 2nd stage allowing some air to vent out while opening the tank valve, then release . In most resorts, the boat or resort staff will set up your gear. Watch how they just quickly open the tank valve. Not a good thing. Check your 1st stage IP with an IP Gauge every 50 or so dives. For Apeks, It should peg between 9-10 bar and not creep up at all. If it creeps, you have a leak.

Hope this helps.

 

[StefinSB]

Try to do the test I outlined earlier before buying the Reg. It is not uncommon for the Reg to be detuned out of the box. They just simply have to use the lever height tool to set it. Quick simple process. The FSR first stage and XTX second stage are the best Reg system in the market IMO. .

I would not call a 2nd stage, where the air barrel can easily twist when you tigthen the nut on the oustside, the best reg on the market. The venerable g250 had a better solution for that. It’s not a bad reg by any stretch but “the best” it ain’t, IMO.

 

[admikar]

3. The replaceable HP Valve Seat protects your investment. I've had and seen broken Valve Seats in US4/DS4. You will need to replace the Body if this happens as the Valve Seat is moulded as part of the body. A broken Valve seat will lead to unacceptable IP creep and serious issues. Broken valve seats are more common than most people think. Divers may not even realize that they have a broken valve seat and an IP that's creeping up to unacceptable levels. The regulator will continue to breathe normally because the increasing IP pressure creep drops back when you inhale. Until one day, something gives (the increasing and building IP has to go somewhere - 2nd stage leak or uncontrollable free flow, fittings leak, hose burst, first stage seal leaks, LPI leak causing a BCD auto inflate situation, etc.).

Like I said, DST body is 35€, replaceable HP valve seat is 12€. Initial price difference between the two is enough for 5 or so first stage bodies to get even. I don't think I will ever dive enough to expend 5 regulators. As for your other points, I can accept your point on turret failure point. Hose routing with 5th port on both is about the same.

I would not call a 2nd stage, where the air barrel can easily twist when you tigthen the nut on the oustside, the best reg on the market. The venerable g250 had a better solution for that. It’s not a bad reg by any stretch but “the best” it ain’t, IMO.

Barrel twist is almost always a result of over torque of said nut.

 

[StefinSB]

Barrel twist is almost always a result of over torque of said nut.

As I said, there are other manufacturers that avoided that issue altogether using proper engineering solutions.

 

[buddhasummer]

I would not call a 2nd stage, where the air barrel can easily twist when you tigthen the nut on the oustside, the best reg on the market. The venerable g250 had a better solution for that. It’s not a bad reg by any stretch but “the best” it ain’t, IMO.

Although not a big issue, the barrel twisting when even the lightest pressure is put on it irks me.