How to setup a new tank

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WetSEAL

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Just purchased my first new cylinder (faber HP), and am curious what steps I should take before my first dive.
Wanted to ask here first so that when I go to my dive shop, I know what to expect and don't end up spending more than I have to.

My questions:
1) Since it comes brand new, should I have to do a visual inspection or hydro, or can I assume that it's factory passed already?
2) Should I assume the tank is already pressurized, if so should I assume it comes at full pressure (this is a HP tank), or at some partial pressure for storage? In other words, do I need to take it to a shop to get filled before I go diving?
3) It comes with a plastic thing stuck into the cylinder opening, and the valve is separate. Should I just screw in the valve myself, or is there some reason I should take it to a shop first? If so, should I expect to pay a fee to have the valve installed?
4) If I install the valve myself, should I use grease -- if so what kind?
 
1) if it does not have a vip sticker it will need a vip. If the hydro is in date it will only need the vip.2) it cannot be shipped pressurized and think about it....if it has a plastic plug in the opening and no valve..how could it have pressure in it. 3) based on things im reading take it to the shop and have them do it. 4) no lube on the neck ....i must ask...are you a certified diver? I ask this because if so you should already know about vip, hydro and things you are asking. Not flaming you, just asking...
 
1. It's good on hydro, but may need VIP - check the sticker, is it there?
2. Of course not! Pressurized tanks are dangerous goods. Also...
3. It can't possibly be pressurized without a valve. You can screw it in yourself, but a friendly enough shop shouldn't charge for the effort, and will help you check it's good.
4. A tiny bit of O2-safe (!!!) lube.
 
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Should of purchased at local dive shop if you have these type of questions. Will need to pay for visual inspection, fill. If purchased at dive shop it would be sold to you filled and visually inspected,usually at no charge. Bring your certification card with you as it sounds like you are not a certified diver.
 
Just purchased my first new cylinder (faber HP), and am curious what steps I should take before my first dive.
Wanted to ask here first so that when I go to my dive shop, I know what to expect and don't end up spending more than I have to.

My questions:
1) Since it comes brand new, should I have to do a visual inspection or hydro, or can I assume that it's factory passed already?
2) Should I assume the tank is already pressurized, if so should I assume it comes at full pressure (this is a HP tank), or at some partial pressure for storage? In other words, do I need to take it to a shop to get filled before I go diving?
3) It comes with a plastic thing stuck into the cylinder opening, and the valve is separate. Should I just screw in the valve myself, or is there some reason I should take it to a shop first? If so, should I expect to pay a fee to have the valve installed?
4) If I install the valve myself, should I use grease -- if so what kind?
1. It is shipped pressure tested already when purchased new from a reputable company and if there is a VIP sticker it may already have a visual inspection completed. If not, you awil need to buy one before getting it filled.
2. It is not currently pressurized (no valve and just a dust cover).
3. If you have the knowledge and skill set you can install the valve yourself. To have a good dive shop do it will be very inexpensive and that way you'll know it is done right.
4. Yes, there is specific lubricant needed.

Do you plan to use it for scuba diving or some other purpose?
Cameron
 
Guys, I appreciate the thoughtful feedback and answers to my questions, but I don't appreciate the back-handed comments that several of you have made implying that I must not be certified or that a certified person would never ask such a question.

Whether or not I am certified is absolutely and completely irrelevant to my questions, even if my questions are something that would have been covered in the certification course -- which I don't believe they are (Nowhere in my certification course did they discuss cost-saving tips for how to prepare a NIB cylinder for first time usage. We always started with a cylinder that had the valve installed already. I assume this is information that would be covered by one who is certified to perform visual inspections, but that outside the scope of my open water certification).

In fact it so happens that I am certified, but I don't pretend to be an expert. I am a new diver, this is my first post here, and I have a lot of questions. I would like to feel free to ask my questions on this forum without having my certification constantly and needlessly "challenged" for no apparent reason. It's not helpful, it's not friendly, and contributes towards a certain toxicity that is is likely to discourage myself and other new divers from feeling comfortable asking questions here in the future. Is that your objective?

With that said, my reason for asking if a visual inspection is really necessary is specifically because I had read a previous ScubaBoard post, in which the consensus from members who answered at that time is that a brand new tank does NOT require a VIP sticker because of the fresh hydro stamp. This contradicts what several of you now have just said, so I'm not sure who to believe:
Visual inspection for new tank?
 
It's OK... these are things that should be covered in your course, but quite often peeps forget them. It's OK for you to ask questions and be sure what you're getting. Buying your first tank is always exciting. I don't think I've lost the feeling even after buying dozens of tanks. What size did you get and who did you get it from?

As for your questions, if you haven't done this before, you should probably let your LDS assemble it for you. Yes, they are going to sell you a VIP, with a sticker, which is kinda bogus. New tanks don't need much. By all means, grease should be used when installing that valve, but not just any grease. Personally, I use Christolube or Tribolube since it keeps things oxy-friendly. There are lots of options in that regard, so check with your LDS and figure out what's right for you. And please: let us know how things worked out for you.
 
Sorry if I sounded a bit short. In a ow class you should of learned that tanks require visual inspections every year and hydro every 5 years. If it was not in your class I would think about what else you were not taught. When anyone brings in a new out of box tank in a dive shop will need to inspect it being it is empty it can have anything in it. Can be metal shavings, bugs, a mouse, anything. Tank may have a sticker from the online retailer you brought it from, but most if not all dive shops will not honor it as tank has no pressure in it. A visual here cost $15, includes a air fill at no charge that cost $7 for an 80 cu ft tank or $10 for a100 cu ft tank.
 
In a ow class you should of learned that tanks require visual inspections every year and hydro every 5 years.
It does, but I can bet they don't always tell you what to expect of a new tank. In fact, teaching Tank Inspections, I am surprised at the amount of apocryphal crap that instructors hold onto.
 
@WetSEAL

Everyone here on SB is certainly stoked you’ve gotten certified and are diving, and that you’ve made the huge jump and investment to purchase your first cylinder. Likewise, I’m sure everyone agrees that we want you to continue to ask questions.

It's not helpful, it's not friendly, and contributes towards a certain toxicity that is is likely to discourage myself and other new divers from feeling comfortable

However, don’t misunderstand others’ Thoughtful questions. In something as potentially technical and dangerous as diving, we all want to ensure we’re a) answering your specific questions and b) focusing on your safety. If anything, you should realize what you mistook for toxicity was actually deep concern for you. Nothing more, and certainly nothing less.

Welcome. Happy AND safe diving!
 

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