How to setup a new tank

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Don't be upset that someone asks you a question. You will be asking questions on this forum and we will be asking questions back. Relax and learn.
 
Thank you for the welcome guys :)

Yeah, I was taught that tanks require regular visual inspection and hydro, but I wasn't sure if there were special circumstances for brand new tanks, especially since the posters in the previous scubaboard thread I linked to concluded it wasn't necessary, so I wanted to ask to confirm.

Anyway, I purchased a Faber HP100 steel tank -- largely for the buoyancy characteristics, because I'll be diving in cold waters with lots of positively buoyant neoprene (off the coast of MA) and wanted to minimize the need for extra weights, and for the superior capacity to size ratio. I understand there are some drawbacks too, like increased corrosion potential, and maybe not all shops can fill it, but I figured even if they only fill at 3000 psi it might still be close to a 80cf (though I haven't done the exact calculation)
 
The tank should be in hydro, depends on how old it is. I've seen new tanks that were old enough that they needed a hydro. New Old Stock. Usually discounted for this fact. Never know until you read the neck.

You will need a VIS. It shouldn't be much of anything. Make sure there isn't anything in the tank that shouldn't be there (spiders, paperwork, rust, etc.)

Did you order a tank with a valve? They are not standard but many will add one.

The tank will be shipped empty. If it were filled it would be shipped haz-mat, which is very expensive.

Expect your new tank to need a trip to the local dive shop for a VIS and a fill.


As a side note, every tank I have ever bought from a dive store always came with a VIP and filled ready to go. A little thank you for buying local.
 
new tank will have the born on date stamped on the tank and that hydro should still be valid and fairly recent. if a visual sticker was included, you put the sticker on the side of the tank (punch out the month/year), a thin coating of tribolube on the oring, torque the valve down correctly, and then use a transfill whip to put a little pressure in to verify it seals correctly. it wouldn't hurt to stick a led light string inside the tank and check for debris before you install the valve and also verify the dip tube is threaded into the valve.

akimbo had a previous thread about installing valves:

Scuba Cylinder Valve Installation
 
Don't bother installing the valve... it has to come off for the inspection, anyway. Some places ship with the valve installed - but a sealed empty tank is a potential corrosion problem, and some shops would require a VIP prior to filling even if it has a current sticker.

Congrats on the new tank - I dive hp100s, as well. With a little luck, your local (or preferred) dive shop will be good about filling to your desired pressure.
 
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With that said, my reason for asking if a visual inspection is really necessary is specifically because I had read a previous ScubaBoard post, in which the consensus from members who answered at that time is that a brand new tank does NOT require a VIP sticker because of the fresh hydro stamp. This contradicts what several of you now have just said, so I'm not sure who to believe:
Visual inspection for new tank?

There's only one person that you need to believe: the person that's going to fill your tank.

If that person is at your local scuba shop, go there and explain your situation. They will likely tell you that they have to do a visual inspection before they fill the tank. But if they are willing to fill it without a viz... well, there you go!

Don't be too surprised if the cost to get the viz and fill is about the same as what you saved by buying the tank online vs. from the shop. I'll never forget the genius who brought a new tank to the shop my son was working at, bragging about how he saved $20 over the shop's price by buying his tank online. My son told him it would need a viz before he could fill it... and that the cost of the viz and fill would be $25. The guy didn't have much choice at that point... and his demeanor flipped 180 (i.e. the bragging stopped.)

My son looked in the tank, told the guy it was perfect, slapped a viz sticker on it and filled it. Hopefully the guy learned a valuable lesson that day... for the extra 5 bucks.
 
@WetSEAL, the HP 100 is a nice tank for a lot of reasons. Just about any shop should be able to fill it to its rated capacity. If you do get a short fill to only 3000 psi though, you'll have 87 cf, so still better than an AL 80 (which is actually only about 77.5 cf at 3,000 psi).
 
It is all a "crap shoot". Shop's compressor, shop's rules......

Many places will require a visual for an empty tank prior to filling. They will crack the valve, in if no air exits, they say it must be inspected (sticker or no sticker).

Walk in with it in pieces, and they may or may not assemble it for free or charge. Each shop can be different.

No sticker on it? Likely they will require an inspection.

Products specifically for SCUBA (grease/lube) are the only ones that should be used, so if you are not versed in the proper product (and have it on hand), I'd suggest leaving it to the shop.

Enjoy your new tank, and I hope you get to use it like crazy!
 
Don't bother installing the valve... it has to come off for the inspection, anyway.

This. I was new to tank buying and bought my first tank online because I just assumed it would cost less than buying from the LDS, and besides, they didn't normally stock what I wanted. Mine actually came with the valve installed, but unpressurized, and with no "visual inspection" sticker that was acceptable to the LDS. After paying for shipping and the LDS's $25 fee for visual inspection, I suspect I might have gotten the same price had I had the LDS special order it for me.
 
Even if they did fill the new tank without a sticker, it will still need a VIS for the second fill. Plan on diving with it more than once?
 

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