SP MK25 removing yoke for DIN conversion

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rthorntn

Registered
Messages
25
Reaction score
4
Location
Sydney
# of dives
50 - 99
Hi,

Many thanks to everyone that has helped me in the past.

I am attempting to remove the yoke nut with an adjustable wrench and making a mess of it.

I don't want a specific tool, this is the only yoke I will ever own, I got it cheap, if someone tells me it's OK then I'm happy to just dremel the yoke frame off?

Another question, I have the DIN conversion kit, I'm worried that I won't get the torque right, I have a torque wrench but it only does 0 to 75-inch pounds, any tips or tools I should use to get the DIN connector on tight?

Thanks again.

Richard
 
If you're willing to dremel the yoke off and can't find a shop to help for free, then you'd spend about the same amount of work hacksawing a 1" socket. Cut it so it's about 3/4" high (enough to fit in the space under the yoke. Remove the knob and a standard 1/4" extension will fit right in. Then you'll have the tool to put the yoke back on some day.

As for torque, having it slightly less than spec is not a safety issue, and the redesigned bolt after the Mk20 recall fiasco will protect the body against overtorquing for the most part. You can just make a gentle twist of the reg on your tank part of your pre-dive check. If it ever moves after you've turned on the air, then your DIN bolt has come loose and you can abort the dive.

For a WAG, 20 foot pounds is like two bowling balls worth of pull with a 1 foot handle (likely a 1/2" socket wrench handle with a 1/2 to 1/4" adapter on it. Hand torquing this one is not as dangerous as overtorquing the swivel retainer. So go for it.

Or if you really want to use your existing torque wrench, you'll need to figure out a way to add a two foot extension from the connection of your torque wrench to your DIN bolt. Then do the math of the ratio between your total new working length divided by the working length of the original torque wrench. That factor will multiply any given setting on your torque wrench to find one that yields 230 inch pounds.

Sounds like finding a local shop to change the bolt for $10 would be a better path, lol!
Unless you're like us, when DIY is ALWAYS better!

Cheers!
 
...send it to me ill remove it and put the din on for free its a 5 minute job ..steve .....PS sorry just noticed your on the other side of the world ...I cant belive your lds would not do it for free as good will
 
Did you ask your LDS? It would take less than a minute. I'm not a big fan of permantly trashing something if possible, I've been bitten before and it's cost me, not to mention it's a waste.
 
Hi,

Many thanks to everyone that has helped me in the past.

I am attempting to remove the yoke nut with an adjustable wrench and making a mess of it.

I don't want a specific tool, this is the only yoke I will ever own, I got it cheap, if someone tells me it's OK then I'm happy to just dremel the yoke frame off?

Another question, I have the DIN conversion kit, I'm worried that I won't get the torque right, I have a torque wrench but it only does 0 to 75-inch pounds, any tips or tools I should use to get the DIN connector on tight?

Thanks again.

Richard
Her is how you get it off in a few seconds.

get a medium screw driver and wedge it between the inner yoke wakll and the nut inside the yoke that holds it on. Turn the yoke and it will screw right out. I did it that way to all my regs
 
Thanks everyone, I went to the hardware store and purchased a 1-inch hex tap spanner for $4 and used the dremel cutting discs to hack it up, pushed it into position, set a chisel on top and tightened the yoke screw, locked the reg in a vise with the holding tool, turned the chisel anticlockwise by the handle, voila!
 
Her is how you get it off in a few seconds.

get a medium screw driver and wedge it between the inner yoke wakll and the nut inside the yoke that holds it on. Turn the yoke and it will screw right out. I did it that way to all my regs

Good tip, cheers. I'll try that on my next non seized one.
 
Her is how you get it off in a few seconds.

get a medium screw driver and wedge it between the inner yoke wakll and the nut inside the yoke that holds it on. Turn the yoke and it will screw right out. I did it that way to all my regs

Good quick and easy. Or at least quick and easy.

Done that in a pinch myself, works. Even on some pretty crusty second hand regs.
 
It's too late now, but for the next time, try putting the reg in the vise yoke-down so the vise grips two flats on the yoke retainer, then just spin the reg off. If it's really tight, you might need a piece of pipe to slip over the turret for some leverage. PVC would work and will not scratch it. Some yokes (I have a MK2 like this) are machined so that you can't get a grip on the retainer this way, but it works for many.

I also think (but I'd have to check) that some yoke SP retainers have a hex-walled passage to the HP chamber, not round. So with those you can take out the filter and simply get a hex wrench down there to remove the retainer, just like the DIN retainers.
 

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