SP MK25 removing yoke for DIN conversion

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It's too late now, but for the next time, try putting the reg in the vise yoke-down so the vise grips two flats on the yoke retainer, then just spin the reg off. If it's really tight, you might need a piece of pipe to slip over the turret for some leverage. PVC would work and will not scratch it. Some yokes (I have a MK2 like this) are machined so that you can't get a grip on the retainer this way, but it works for many.

I also think (but I'd have to check) that some yoke SP retainers have a hex-walled passage to the HP chamber, not round. So with those you can take out the filter and simply get a hex wrench down there to remove the retainer, just like the DIN retainers.

Another good tip, cheers, I'll try that one too.
 
Great tip!

I did try this but my vise throat wasn't deep enough to swallow the entire yoke.

It's too late now, but for the next time, try putting the reg in the vise yoke-down so the vise grips two flats on the yoke retainer, then just spin the reg off. If it's really tight, you might need a piece of pipe to slip over the turret for some leverage.
 
Hi,

Another question, I have the DIN conversion kit, I'm worried that I won't get the torque right, I have a torque wrench but it only does 0 to 75-inch pounds, any tips or tools I should use to get the DIN connector on tight?

Thanks again.

Richard

Sorry, I forgot about this part. The DIN retainer spec is something like 21-22 ft/lbs, (266 in/lbs) The right way to do it, of course, is to have a hex socket and a torque wrench that has that range, but in a pinch you can get reasonably close with a big allen wrench and a piece of pipe that fits over it. Just secure the reg and position your hand 1ft from the center and try your best to apply 20lbs of force. A couple of caveats: 1) I would not recommend doing this regularly, get a torque wrench! 2) I read someplace that mechanics almost always over-torque when they're trying to guess-timate by hand, so keep that in mind. 3) Don't forget that the early MK20 retainers occasionally caused the reg to split in half when grossly overtorqued. I would never ever do this on a MK20 with the original yoke or DIN retainer. The replacement retainer (called the "universal" retainer) has a shoulder on it that keeps it from applying splitting force on the reg body even when it's over tightened. All MK25s have the newer retainer AFAIK.

As long as you're using the new retainer, I don't think the torque spec is that crucial. It doesn't affect the seal, you just don't want it coming loose when a helpful boat hand picks up your tank by the regulator.
 
I read someplace that mechanics almost always over-torque when they're trying to guess-timate by hand, so keep that in mind.
As a former automotive technician, I take exception to this. Measuring torque is important when you're trying to maintain even pressure over several bolts (a wheel or a head gasket), when a fastener is exceptionally fragile (in pounds, anyone?) or when the fastener needs a lot of torque (flange nut on a Bug). Most fasteners need between 18 and 25 ft/lbs. Hoses, and the port plugs need far, far less on the order of 6-10 ft/lbs. When it comes to o-rings, it's very easy. Tighten it down to when the metal comes into contact with metal. Then give it a 1/16 nudge. You're done.
 
Exception to what? Cheers.
To the quote. A real mechanic torques fasteners within specs without the use of a torque wrench. I can do that using air tools or manually. 30+ years of making my living by twisting wrenches gave me muscle memory that a non-mechanic simply can't fathom. In any event, it's not hard for a critical thinking mechanic or mechanic wannabe to start to learn that skill.
 
As a former automotive technician, I take exception to this.

Not many people know that Pete used to make training films when he was an automotive technician.

 

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