Question Scubapro DIN Conversion - to DIY or not to DIY?

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I did have a conversation with Lieven a while ago about this. I got confused as the ScubaPro dealer portal shows a 26mm nut which is completely wrong.



Long story short, the 25mm is in most cases the correct nut to use with regards to ScubaPro.
I am confused - you mean to say the 26mm is the wrong nut to use correct?

  • the hex nut itself should never exceed the nominal size: e.g. 25mm is MAX 25mm across the flats
As you can see from the data above, the SP origina socket is a sloppy class 2 25mm socket and doesn't meet the specs for a proper 1" socket (too small).

Here he is saying even the 25mm is not the right fit. Or is it the case that when you order a 25mm socket from scuba-clinic you actually get 25.4mm?
 
Just found this clever hack for removing A-Clamps with just a spanner and without the thin-walled sockets. If anyone wants to try -


Edit - Just realised : However there’s a catch! When rebuilding the reg you need a torque wrench with specific toque settings and this hack won’t let you do that.
I don't know that I would automatically take the word of a "tech" who doesn't know a 6mm hex is the go-to tool for an Apeks reg but he is more or less correct.
 
Admittedly I am new to all this - but a 6mm hex long shaft with 3/8” drive in the socket is also what we can use to torque Scubapro regs. It’s easy to take apart something with hacks like these but if you need to rebuild with the right torque specs then the right tools are necessary for the job. I’m guessing the creator of the video simply under or over-tightened things and when he put things back together he also spoke about handing it over to the dive shop to “do all the right things”…
 
I am confused - you mean to say the 26mm is the wrong nut to use correct?

Here he is saying even the 25mm is not the right fit. Or is it the case that when you order a 25mm socket from scuba-clinic you actually get 25.4mm?

I admit that the terminology can become a tad confusing when looking at the numbers, I guess that is where your confusion is coming from.
  • A 25mm hex nut must never exceed 25mm, this is the maximum allowable width across the flats. In reality most are a bit smaller than this to keep within the specs.
  • A 25mm spanner/socket will be larger across the flats than 25mm, specifically +0.06 t0 +0.36mm for a class 1 and +0.06 t0 +0.46 for a class 2 spanner/socket.
If both the socket and hex nut were exactly 25mm, it would be impossible to fit a socket/spanner over the hex nut.

The 25mm is the one you want for ScubaPro regulators - most of the time at least. There are certain exceptions like older units, which do really have a 1" yoke nuts.
 
Hi,

Just a theoretical doubt from a new diver.

MK25 Yoke is certified to 230bar, while MK25 DIN configuration is certified to 300bar.
If I convert my Yoke to DIN configuration using the original adapter, will I be able to use a 300bar scuba tank?

Will it not affect the internal parts of the regulator?
 
Hi,

Just a theoretical doubt from a new diver.

MK25 Yoke is certified to 230bar, while MK25 DIN configuration is certified to 300bar.
If I convert my Yoke to DIN configuration using the original adapter, will I be able to use a 300bar scuba tank?

Will it not affect the internal parts of the regulator?
No, internally they're identical. 230bar is the limit on yoke connectors, DIN connection can be as high as 300 bar (although many DIN valves are only rated to 230 bar)
 
What is 230 bar rated, is that matched to tank pressure, number of threads, burst disc size, most din valves?

The brass is the same

Yes DIY always DIY the guy in the shop is faking it too!
 
What is 230 bar rated, is that matched to tank pressure, number of threads, burst disc size, most din valves?
[...]
  • DIN477°13 is the thread standard for "DIN" valves rated to 232bar. This connector has 5 threads.
  • DIN477°56 is the thread standard for "DIN" valves rated to 300bar. This connector has 7 threads.
The thread dimensions for both is a G5/8" BSP, which is the same as BS341°3.

It is physically impossible to achieve a seal with a 232bar rated regulator, attached to a 300bar valve. This is because the 232bar regulator with it's 5 threads will not reach far enough into the valve, which has 7 threads, to press the O-Ring against the sealing surface.
A 300bar rated regulator however will work just fine on a 232bar valve, it will just stand a bit proud.
 
Hey mate why quote me, I'm talking about the comment about valves, the guy above me made

Whilst there may have been manufactured over the years, shorter threaded din wheels, also the
nub or protrusion at the front of the din fitting may not have permitted it to be properly seated
due to the length, diameter, do you really think there are manufacturers out there building regs

Non compatible with 300bar valves, now that would be interesting

232bar regulator with it's 5 threads

Are you talking about valves dude or regs, go have a count peoples


232 bar regulator with its more than 5 threads fits 300bar din valves
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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