NW OH, SE MI, NE IN- who services your scubapro regulator locally?

[Mobulai]

Thanks so much for that reply!! Yep, that's the video that I was watching. I did remember reading somewhere that the Halcyon Halo was a match- thank you for pointing that out!!

I will indeed research and understand cracking pressure!!! OK, so even if I service the second stage myself, have the first stage professionally done so that the intermediate pressure is in spec and is acceptable for my G250. Don't just buy the $18 gauge from Amazon? Obviously I've no experience in this so if that's your advice I'll follow it.

Yes the Halcyon regs are just rebranded SP
Halo is the g250V

Get the IP gauge either way, it’s how you can tell that your 1st stage is in spec/needs servicing; regardless of doing it DIY or not — I actually take mine with me even traveling and check IP before every diving day

If you have *stable* IP in range 120-145 PSI ; then go ahead and work on the 2nd and service the 1st later on

There are quite a few threads here on mk10 and g250 service intricacies — and a wealth of useful knowledge there in case you go with the DIY approach

Problem is, since you’re not scuba certified, what tank will you do that on?

 

[HamTrainChickenLaser]

OMG!!!!! That's Rsingler here on the forum!!!! I've read a billion of his posts here. When I grow up in this scuba thing I was to be a "regulator geek"!!!!!!

Yes the Halcyon regs are just rebranded SP
Halo is the g250V

Get the IP gauge either way, it’s how you can tell that your 1st stage is in spec/needs servicing; regardless of doing it DIY or not — I actually take mine with me even traveling and check IP before every diving day

If you have *stable* IP in range 120-145 PSI ; then go ahead and work on the 2nd and service the 1st later on

There are quite a few threads here on mk10 and g250 service intricacies — and a wealth of useful knowledge there in case you go with the DIY approach

Problem is, since you’re not scuba certified, what tank will you do that on?

Brilliant to all of this!!!!!

Oh the tank is not a problem- I'm 25 days away from flying to Cancun to do my open water. EXCITING!!!!!!!! In the meantime I can get the parts and tools in order for this job and play around watching videos and learning. I don't have any problem stretching it out 3 weeks+; I mean, I have a TON of gaps in my knowledge that videos and forum posts will help to fill. Just things like nomenclature/terminology are pretty intense at this point!!!

So there isn't a book about servicing regulators that compares the different styles/types- something comprehensive? Do I just grab the service manual for the G250 from eBay, or maybe it's available as a PDF online somewhere?

 

[HamTrainChickenLaser]

That cracking effort video is awesome!!!!! It's sometimes called "cracking pressure" true?

Oh, and this is adjusted by changing the pressure that the lever exerts on that plastic disc in the middle of the diaphragm, right? And do I want more cracking effort for cold water? So let's say I want to tune this regulator to work in either warm or cold water- I'd just do my best to set it at the middle of the manufacturer's range? Or if it becomes my dedicated cold water rig then at the stiff end of the range but still "in spec"?

 

[Mobulai]

OMG!!!!! That's Rsingler here on the forum!!!! I've read a billion of his posts here. When I grow up in this scuba thing I was to be a "regulator geek"!!!!!!

Brilliant to all of this!!!!!

Oh the tank is not a problem- I'm 25 days away from flying to Cancun to do my open water. EXCITING!!!!!!!! In the meantime I can get the parts and tools in order for this job and play around watching videos and learning. I don't have any problem stretching it out 3 weeks+; I mean, I have a TON of gaps in my knowledge that videos and forum posts will help to fill. Just things like nomenclature/terminology are pretty intense at this point!!!

So there isn't a book about servicing regulators that compares the different styles/types- something comprehensive? Do I just grab the service manual for the G250 from eBay, or maybe it's available as a PDF online somewhere?

Pete Wolfinger — Regulator Savvy
Vance Harlow — Scuba Regulator Maintenance and Repair

Schematics:

You can find it along with tons of other interesting files at Vintage Scuba - Vintage Scuba Gear at Vintage Double Hose -->Manuals and Catalogs-->ScubaPro > 2nds > g250 > …

 

[Mobulai]

That cracking effort video is awesome!!!!! It's sometimes called "cracking pressure" true?

Oh, and this is adjusted by changing the pressure that the lever exerts on that plastic disc in the middle of the diaphragm, right? And do I want more cracking effort for cold water? So let's say I want to tune this regulator to work in either warm or cold water- I'd just do my best to set it at the middle of the manufacturer's range? Or if it becomes my dedicated cold water rig then at the stiff end of the range but still "in spec"?

Might be possible that some refer to it as pressure — the unit is in water column depth (so yeah pressure)

It’s a function of the orifice contact to the seat (and this dictates the lever height which should be at max regardless) and the spring compression (knob)
You guessed in the right chain just the opposite direction: you apply suction that pulls on the diaphragm, that pushes on the lever to try and open the contact between orifice and seat, hence “Effort”

Ideally you want to achieve 1.1~1.2” for a barrel reg like the g250, anything less and water pressure triggers it into freeflow
(Water will preload the diaphragm so it will be barely closed/effortless to breathe)
This is called “case fault geometry”

Maybe a bit stiffer (higher effort) for coldwater use, to avoid freeflows and frozen 1st stage

 

[HamTrainChickenLaser]

Might be possible that some refer to it as pressure — the unit is in water column depth (so yeah pressure)

It’s a function of the orifice contact to the seat (and this dictates the lever height which should be at max regardless) and the spring compression (knob)
You guessed in the right chain just the opposite direction: you apply suction that pulls on the diaphragm, that pushes on the lever to try and open the contact between orifice and seat, hence “Effort”

Ideally you want to achieve 1.1~1.2” for a barrel reg like the g250, anything less and water pressure triggers it into freeflow
(Water will preload the diaphragm so it will be barely closed/effortless to breathe)
This is called “case fault geometry”

Maybe a bit stiffer (higher effort) for coldwater use, to avoid freeflows and frozen 1st stage

Thanks for all of this info- much appreciated!