New tank buyer questions

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twistypencil

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I'm 6'3" (170cm), 175lbs (80kg), steel BP/W with dual cambands and a zeagle F8 yoke. I am doing mostly air for shore dives, but am nitrox certified. I've just started diving dry (previously all wet) in the north east of the US. I've done ~115 dives. I'm at a point where I can get some tanks. A few statements/questions that help outline my requirements:

1. I have an outdoor, unheated garage space, can I store the tanks in there, or is that risky?
2. I'm wanting steel, as I prefer the bouyancy
3. I understand I should not buy used tanks without hydro
5. I use more air than everyone else
6. HP120 or HP133 seem like what others around my height/weight are recommending here on the forum. Does that match up with dry suit and steel BP/W?
7. Can I avoid LDS markup by doing hydro/VIP at a fire extinguisher place? I'm wanting to do the math to see how it all works out, and want to call some local shops. It costs me $30/tank/day for steel right now
8. It seems scuba.com has faber hp133 for about $400, DGX for $534... I usually find DGX to be a better price, why is that price so much higher?
 
1 no problem
2 sounds like a statement, not a question
3 Not an issue getting without a hydro, but the cost of the hydro needs to be factored into the value.
4(a) statement, and there are people who use more. Dive more and it will get better.
4(b) I think they are too big.
5 Going to a hydro shop directly may save you on the hydro. All depends on local markets. Locally there is a dive shop that does hydros in house for a better price that the bulk hydro shop that doesn't want to deal with walk ins and wants to just do big contracts for hundreds of tanks at a time. But the VIS will likely be best done via the local shop. The fire extinguisher shop doesn't usually do VIS stickers for scuba. And dive shops can get funky when they don't recognize the VIS sticker, or thinks it is just a generic off the internet sticker.
6 also check if they are in stock and what shipping prices are.
 
3. I understand I should not buy used tanks without hydro
It's christmas season at all the stores. Buy a cheap $4 string of white holiday lights that you can drop inside of the steel tank to check for rust before you buy it. It will save you alot of headaches when buying a used steel tank. If the seller won't let you look inside, it's a warning.
 
...HP120 or HP133 seem like what others around my height/weight are recommending here on the forum...

I'm assuming you know your RMV. Ideally, how much gas would you need to optimally execute your usual dives? That would logically dictate the best cylinder size for you.

The fatties, 117 and 133, are both shorter than a 120. A 133 weighs a little over 3 lbs more than a 120
 
I'm 6'3" (170cm), 175lbs (80kg), steel BP/W with dual cambands and a zeagle F8 yoke. I am doing mostly air for shore dives, but am nitrox certified. I've just started diving dry (previously all wet) in the north east of the US. I've done ~115 dives. I'm at a point where I can get some tanks. ...
My HP120 (the old PST 3,500 psig, 28" tall flavor) is a bit too long for me (6'2") to both dive comfortably as a single and to schlep around by the valve. A bit too long, too, for me for sitting geared up on a bench.

I like its OD (7.25", same as an Alum 80), though.

If you think you will begin diving doubles from dive boats (say, for diving deep, Northeast shipwrecks), I think you'll be happy to have double HP120's. Know, though, that filled double HP120's are quite heavy to walk around in.

I preferred my HP100 (PST 3,500 psig, 24" tall, 7.25" OD) for diving as a single cylinder when drysuit diving, especially for shore diving. Double HP100's are a bit too short for me (both for reaching valves and for sitting geared up on a bench), although they hold plenty of gas, and aren't nearly as heavy full as double HP120's.

rx7diver
 

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