Yoke regulator switch to DIN

[selytch]

Thanks all for your replies. My concern is that I will not be able to use any "Yoke to DIN" adapter with 300B valves. Even if filled to 200-230B the 300B DIN valve is too long to be used with a clamp. Am I right?

 

[ianr33]

Am I right?

Yes. if you have a 300 bar valve it IS NOT POSSIBLE to use a yoke reg on it.

I dont see that the difference in strength between 200 bar and 300 bar valves is a dealbreaker. If you might at some time want to put a yoke reg on a tank then make it a 200 bar valve and dont worry about it.

 

[John_B]

Thanks all for your replies. My concern is that I will not be able to use any "Yoke to DIN" adapter with 300B valves. Even if filled to 200-230B the 300B DIN valve is too long to be used with a clamp. Am I right?

I guess I'm not clear on what you are trying to do. Are you wanting to turn a yoke first stage into a DIN first stage? Or are you wanting to keep your yoke first stage and use a convertible DIN/yoke valve on a tank?

John

 

[docmartin]

Thanks all for your replies. My concern is that I will not be able to use any "Yoke to DIN" adapter with 300B valves. Even if filled to 200-230B the 300B DIN valve is too long to be used with a clamp. Am I right?

i don't understand your question. there are DIN to Yoke adapters (not the other way around). they work on any DIN reg. likewise any DIN reg will work on a 200 or a 300 bar valve. only the 200 bar valves can be converted to yoke accepting valves. personally i went for 300 bar valves. if i had to do it again i'd go for the 200 bar because of the greater versatility. the fact that the 300 bar valve captures a couple more threads makes absolutely no difference in any conceivable situation a diver may encounter.
converting your apeks to DIN is a piece of cake as mentioned. i just happened to do this 30 minutes ago for my trip to mexico. you may want to get a torque wrench - 12lb/ft is the correct torque. of course many will just do it by "feel". if you use the apeks part it will be the exact same part that is used if you had bought the DIN reg in the first place. i got mine for my atx 200 at LP - they had the same satin finish in stock. that's pretty rare. usually you will get the chrome version which will look a little odd on a satin reg. the new atx 200s are chrome so it's not an issue anymore (if anyone except for me ever cared).

 

[selytch]

converting your apeks to DIN is a piece of cake as mentioned. i just happened to do this 30 minutes ago for my trip to mexico. you may want to get a torque wrench - 12lb/ft is the correct torque. of course many will just do it by "feel". if you use the apeks part it will be the exact same part that is used if you had bought the DIN reg in the first place. i got mine for my atx 200 at LP - they had the same satin finish in stock. that's pretty rare. usually you will get the chrome version which will look a little odd on a satin reg. the new atx 200s are chrome so it's not an issue anymore (if anyone except for me ever cared).

That's what I would like to do too. Could you explain further? Buying the DIN, unscrewing Yoke, putting DIN on..

 

[Divin'Papaw]

That's what I would like to do too. Could you explain further? Buying the DIN, unscrewing Yoke, putting DIN on..

That's actually about it!

Both the Yoke and the DIN are "air intake" fittings (if I can call them that) that screw into a large "air intake" hole on the 1st stage. You need a large adjustable wreck to install/remove the yoke and a properly sized allen wreck to install/remove the DIN, and that's about it. That allows you to switch between a Yoke and DIN 1st stage based upon how you intend to use it.

Another option, which is what I do, is to leave it a DIN and use a DIN to Yoke adapter. I do this because 95+% of the time I'm using DIN. When I want to use my DIN 1st stage on a Yoke valve, I just screw the DIN to Yoke adapter ONTO the DIN fitting on the 1st stage. This doesn't change the 1st stage at all, but it does temporarily turn the DIN into a Yoke and allows me to connect the 1st stage to a K valve.

I know this might sound confusing, but once you see it a lightbulb goes off and it's like "Ahhhh, now I see. So simple!"

Believe me, if I can understand it and make the conversion, anyone can. I'm VERY non-mechanically inclined.

 

[350xfire]

If you are not cave diving or "extreme" diving, then go with the 200-bar. This will allow you to keed the DIN fitting and use it as yoke with a yoke adapter.

You cannot use a yoke adapter on a DIN reg with 300 bar manifold as previously mentioned. The threads are too deep.

 

[Divin'Papaw]

If you are not cave diving or "extreme" diving, then go with the 200-bar. This will allow you to keed the DIN fitting and use it as yoke with a yoke adapter.

You cannot use a yoke adapter on a DIN reg with 300 bar manifold as previously mentioned. The threads are too deep.

I just want to make sure we don't confuse the OP. What you're saying is go with the 200-bar VALVE on your tank or manifold. The current 200-bar valves from Thermo, called Thermo Pro Valves, can be either DIN or K (Yoke). Going with a 300-bar valve means you always have to use a 300-bar DIN 1st stage.

Now in terms up converting your 1st stage, you ALWAYS want to go with a 300-bar DIN fitting. I'm actually not sure there is a 200-bar DIN fitting for first stages. The 300-bar DIN fitting on your 1st stage will allow you to seamlessly use it with either 200-bar or 300-bar DIN valves. With the 200-bar valves, it just doesn't screw in all the way before it seats. This is no problem and causes no issues whatsoever in it's use. With the 300-bar valves, the 300-bar DIN fitting on the 1st stage actually screws in all the way before it seats.

I just wanted to make sure the OP didn't end up confused and buy the wrong thing.

 

[Eris Lucan7*]

You need a Polaris pice that make only 300bar ability,i have some but do not sell them.

You can not have that.


E.L.7*

 

[selytch]

That's actually about it!

Both the Yoke and the DIN are "air intake" fittings (if I can call them that) that screw into a large "air intake" hole on the 1st stage. You need a large adjustable wreck to install/remove the yoke and a properly sized allen wreck to install/remove the DIN, and that's about it. That allows you to switch between a Yoke and DIN 1st stage based upon how you intend to use it.

Another option, which is what I do, is to leave it a DIN and use a DIN to Yoke adapter. I do this because 95+% of the time I'm using DIN. When I want to use my DIN 1st stage on a Yoke valve, I just screw the DIN to Yoke adapter ONTO the DIN fitting on the 1st stage. This doesn't change the 1st stage at all, but it does temporarily turn the DIN into a Yoke and allows me to connect the 1st stage to a K valve.

I know this might sound confusing, but once you see it a lightbulb goes off and it's like "Ahhhh, now I see. So simple!"

Believe me, if I can understand it and make the conversion, anyone can. I'm VERY non-mechanically inclined.

This part I understand. But where do you get the DIN air intake fitting???