What to do with this tank?

[Ericspants87]

Hello everyone!

I'm new to scuba, not new to scba's because there is some firefighting training in my job.
Anyways, I'm getting into diving and when I told my dad he dug out a scuba tank that had been buried in his garage for 10+ years to give to me.
It was manufactured in 1981 and its last hydro was in 1993... Other than needing a hydro it's in really outstanding shape!
I know it's a luxfer and stamped e6498
And I've read that these were made with a different type of aluminum that makes the tanks explode at random?!?!
Is there truth to this and is this tank even worth hydro testing? I've also read that some shops won't fill tanks made before like 1988 or something...
What say you fine folks?

 

[dytis-sm]

I suppose hydro is supposed to eliminate all these concerns. Personally I would ask those questions to my LDS. I would first show them the tank and then see what they say.

Apparently Luxfer, Walter Kiddie, Alcan, US Divers, and Dacor cylinders made in January 1988 and before were all made out of a different alloy aluminum called T6351-T6 that has proven to exhibit sustained load cracking over time. Your concern is valid but again why not ask the people that would know best

PS. You may also check this thread: http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/tanks-valves-bands/450718-aluminum-tank-too-old-hydro.html

 

[OkByMe]

The complaint is sustained load cracks in the neck and shoulder of the cylinder. If it is a US Divers tank it might be worth salvaging. They were the best built by Luxfer to their specifications because USD has a lifetime warranty to the original owner. I still have 2 USD in service. 1978

Take that tank directly to a hydro test facility. Tell them to have it re certified to 3AA, Have them Visually inspect it. If it looks clean, then ask for an eddy current test on it next. If it passes that test, have it hydro tested. If it passes, you are good to go. eddy test $15 - $20, Hydro $25. Then take take the tank home, clean it well with simple green - 2 times and well rinsed. Dry it by blowing air into it with the exhaust from a shop vac - tape a flexible hose to the vac hose and run it all the way inside with the tank upside down. when you get it clean and dry you are good to go except for the valve. You have 2 options. You can disassemble the valve and clean it with simple green and replace all the o-rings with viton rings, or you can take the tank and valve to the LDS and have them OXY clean $45 - $50. The valve does not need cleaning for air only. If you elect to air only, have the LDS do a VIP and fill er up. If the valve is an older valve with a reserve lever, you might consider replacing it, if you don't understand how to use it.

dytis-sm comment was made because some LDS or air shops are reluctant to fill the tank. That is thier choice, but DOT regulations allow re certification, transport and use of these cylinders.

 

[Peter_C]

Notice not one photo shows the scuba tank with any kind of air pressure in it.

 

[tphelps]

Hello everyone!

I'm new to scuba, not new to scba's because there is some firefighting training in my job.
Anyways, I'm getting into diving and when I told my dad he dug out a scuba tank that had been buried in his garage for 10+ years to give to me.
It was manufactured in 1981 and its last hydro was in 1993... Other than needing a hydro it's in really outstanding shape!
I know it's a luxfer and stamped e6498
And I've read that these were made with a different type of aluminum that makes the tanks explode at random?!?!
Is there truth to this and is this tank even worth hydro testing? I've also read that some shops won't fill tanks made before like 1988 or something...
What say you fine folks?

Take it in to get hydro'ed if you think you would use it in the future. (My parents had a bunch of J-valves, too much money to replace valves AND get hydro-ed so I didn't) If it fails during the inspection, they will look at the serial number and cross-reference it with Luxfer to check for manufacturing problems. A buddy of mine failed his tank's hydro for the same reason you mentioned. There were impurities with that batch of tanks and it failed during the testing. When you take it in, voice your concerns and have them do an alloy test.


If all else fails (pun intended), you should totally turn your cylinder into a grill!!!! (Firefighters are know to be awesome grillers, yes?) Or you can be boring and get it scrapped for old steel (not as cool). Hope this helps!

 

[tphelps]

Then take take the tank home, clean it well with simple green - 2 times and well rinsed. Dry it by blowing air into it with the exhaust from a shop vac - tape a flexible hose to the vac hose and run it all the way inside with the tank upside down. when you get it clean and dry you are good to go except for the valve. You have 2 options. You can disassemble the valve and clean it with simple green and replace all the o-rings with viton rings, or you can take the tank and valve to the LDS and have them OXY clean $45 - $50. The valve does not need cleaning for air only. If you elect to air only, have the LDS do a VIP and fill er up. If the valve is an older valve with a reserve lever, you might consider replacing it, if you don't understand how to use it.
QUOTE]

Seeing as he is a new diver, I would not at all recommend that he try taking apart his valve more or less O2 clean it. Unless you really know what you are doing, save it for a technician. It's safer that way.

 

[OkByMe]

Then take take the tank home, clean it well with simple green - 2 times and well rinsed. Dry it by blowing air into it with the exhaust from a shop vac - tape a flexible hose to the vac hose and run it all the way inside with the tank upside down. when you get it clean and dry you are good to go except for the valve. You have 2 options. You can disassemble the valve and clean it with simple green and replace all the o-rings with viton rings, or you can take the tank and valve to the LDS and have them OXY clean $45 - $50. The valve does not need cleaning for air only. If you elect to air only, have the LDS do a VIP and fill er up. If the valve is an older valve with a reserve lever, you might consider replacing it, if you don't understand how to use it.
QUOTE]

Seeing as he is a new diver, I would not at all recommend that he try taking apart his valve more or less O2 clean it. Unless you really know what you are doing, save it for a technician. It's safer that way.

Nether one of us knows what his mechanical aptitude is and that has nothing to do with being a new diver. Lots of 14 year old boys tear down and rebuild cars, motorcycles and boats and one that I know, airplanes, long before they can drive.... I know I did. Not everyone is a desk jockey.

 

[spectrum]

Nether one of us knows what his mechanical aptitude is and that has nothing to do with being a new diver. Lots of 14 year old boys tear down and rebuild cars, motorcycles and boats and one that I know, airplanes, long before they can drive.... I know I did. Not everyone is a desk jockey.

I have to assume your post was tounge and cheek. It's crazy to put that much into a cylinder that by age alone will be difficult to fill and by spcific ID will be even more painful to keep in service. Over 20 years and 6351, It's just not worth the perpetual hassles. I'm fully aware that there are means and methods to thechnically keep these in service but more and more shops are making their own rules.

Recent policy update of LDS:
1) 2013 is the last year we will Hydro old Luxfer 6351 aluminum cylinders.
2. We will continue to service 6351 cylinders only if we conduct the Hydro testing and VIP.

Another shop will VIP these cylinders for $120.

This is not a technical discussion, it's a makrketplace reality.

And O2 cleaning?

I'm sensitive to it being dad's cylinder but the obstacle are multiplying every year. Tuck it away repurpose this cylinder. If you're not attached to it the aluminum is worth a few bucks.

Pete

 

[WB2GLP]

Drain it, remove the valve, and march that special permit, hot potato tank down to your local scrap yard and exchange it for a $20 bill because most shops won't touch that tank even if it has the proper VE inspection marks stamped on it.

Better to burst your bubble than to read about another burst 6351 tank.

Here's a pair that I recycled a few years ago.

 

[WB2GLP]

Take that tank directly to a hydro test facility. Tell them to have it re certified to 3AA

An aluminum tank to 3AA? LOL You may as well ask for a plus AND star rating while you're at it so they have something to laugh about after you leave and for the rest of the day.

Sorry, just having fun. I know it's a typo, hell, I hope it's a typo.

DOT regulations allow re certification, transport and use of these cylinders.

DOT also requires a 3AL over-stamp above the 6498 and a VE stamp at the end of the new hydro stamp, but DOT can not mandate a shop to fill it even if has passed every test required of it. Before dumping a bunch of cash into this hot-potato tank, check with a few local shops and see if they will fill it once you've jumped through all the hoops to get it requalified.