What tanks should I get?

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I have two HP80's and two HP100's. I use the HP80's for about 99% of my dives and almost never use the HP100's. I found the HP100's were useful if and only if I was diving with somebody else using HP100's (or larger) who I knew was very good on air. Otherwise, I could always count on coming back with half a tank left over. Personally, I wouldn't touch a 120 or 130 even if you gave it to me! They are just too heavy to lug in and out of the water.
 
GF dives a HP-100 and I dive a HP-130 as our SAC works out so we use the same amount of psi on dives.

Our last dive 2 days ago lasted 57 min with a max depth of 50 feet. We came up with 1300 psi leftover. Depending on what style of diving you do this is just the right amount. Diving the rule of 1/3's (1/3 out, 1/3 in, 1/3 for emergency) that comes out very close. Diving deeper you will need to have enough gas for both you and your buddy to make it safely up, do you know what your rock bottom psi is for that?

Personally I would either go with HP-100 or HP-130. The HP-100's are great tanks. If you are going bigger the reason I would go HP-130 is easy, weight and size. A HP-120 is 5lb heavier then an HP-100 and is 2" longer then an AL-80. Lots of people like HP-119 which are 2" shorter then an AL-80 but they are 42lbs. The HP-130 is only 1 lb heavier then the HP-119 and still slightly shorter then an AL-80. X-Series Steel SCUBA Tanks by Worthington Cylinders - Dive Gear Express
 
That's where I got one of my 130s, but if anyone buys a tank online, make sure the store provides all the docs needed to confirm it can be used for partial pressure nitrox fills or provides the label to confirm themselves.
 
I recently bought blue steel 117's (advertised as 120's) and am still working out my weight belt adjustment---problem is, I've yet to get them below a 1000lbs on a dive & am not inclined to simply bleed them down at the end of a dive.

1'st world problems, eh?
 
Thanks for all the info everyone. I had no idea it would be this much just for a tank. hahaha
 
I recently bought blue steel 117's (advertised as 120's) and am still working out my weight belt adjustment---problem is, I've yet to get them below a 1000lbs on a dive & am not inclined to simply bleed them down at the end of a dive.

1'st world problems, eh?
That's cuz you're skinny.
 
Thanks for all the info everyone. I had no idea it would be this much just for a tank. hahaha


:cool2: as a reforming air-hog. Not being the first to call a dive. Priceless
 
Hp100 can be too short for his height if the valve is placed properly. hp80 is a big nono. Faber LP85 or XS Lp108/hp130 could feel more comfortable. Shorter tanks can chew up the bottom of the wing too.
 
...//... Personally, I wouldn't touch a 120 or 130 even if you gave it to me! They are just too heavy to lug in and out of the water.

I totally understand personal preferences. But weight is weight, it is either on your back or on your belt if you are diving a balanced rig.

However, if one does the buoyancy calcs, first removes the weight in gas swing (full-to-empty), then comes up with still needing more lead ---> I say that backgas beats lead on belt any day. At least it does down to about 4 to 8 pounds or so. That size weightbelt is quite manageable and is a nice drop in an absolute worst-case nightmare scenario.

Therefore, I would *guess* the opposite, either a steel 120 or 130 may suit the OP quite nicely. -but he has to do the calcs...
 

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