OP
What Do I Need to Put a Yellow R195 Cover on My G260?
- Thread starter Ez E
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A clear coat finish (in spray format)
It’s available in matte and glossy
It’s quite famous for model makers and car detailers
123Lack Online Shop
www.123lack.de
I got both based on Nemrods recommendation (didn’t know it was water compatible) and gonna do a matt finish on my raspberry hot cover g250
Edit: if you decide to give it a try, know that it lasts once „opened“ (ie activated) for 1-2days max; so either buy the small can, or prepare a big lot of things ready to spray
There are numerous brands of 2K clears. By 2K it is meant that it is a catalyzed product. The rattle can 2K has a can inside a can which must be popped to release the catalyst. After which there is about a 20 minutes dwell time. Shake, shake, shake, afterwards the can will be useable for up to 48 hours if kept cool. Like all catalyzed coatings, it is super tough. There are 1K clears but they do not cure as hard and solvent resistant as does a 2K though supposedly they do cross link over time. I use the SprayMax brand, gloss, satin, matte.
And certainly the 2K is okay for water use. Water is a universal solvent but I wish H2O luck damaging a 2K finish, not even MPK/MEK can really harm it, neither can gasoline, oils etc. Sure, if you toss such a product in a can of MEK, it will in time damage it I suppose, but water, no way. If it comes off, chips, peels, that it is because the surface was not prepped properly. Dive gear is frequently exposed to silicones and silicone is a big !NO! in painting. The surface must be clean of silicone. I have used the stuff for everything from motorcycles and airplanes and bicycles to guns and scuba gear.
OP
Solvents are interesting especially when you get to strong or “hot” solvents. For example we clean our epoxy tools with acetone. Acetone is very poor for cleaning our polyaspartic tools. MEK(methyl ethyl ketone) cleans our polyaspartic tools but acetone works poorly. Both are strong solvents.
Generally most high end coatings exhibit some resistance to strong solvents which is measured in hours or sometimes continuous emersion.
For example we did a concrete floor for a medicinal weed grower for their processing lab to make oils and whatever else they made. We got a list of all of the solvents they use to spec the floor. We specced the floor accordingly based on what they told us. Well we got a call that a portion of the floor had basically had the top coat completely dissolved and the floor was sticky to the touch.
We questioned them on what chemicals had been on the floor. They told us they had a small leak of their strong concentration alcohol solvent they use for processing. I asked them how quickly it had been cleaned up and was told within less than 8 hours as they think it happened overnight. We were perplexed. The floor was rated for over 24 hours of direct contact to alcohol(a continuous emersion floor would have doubled the price to do the floor). So we go out to look at it and I am talking to the guy managing the processing area just asking questions. Well come to find out he believes the leak was on the floor for 3 days ago or more. So well beyond what was specced. We were told leaks are to be cleaned up quickly due to state regulations etc.
Moral of the story. Some solvents may exhibit no signs of destruction to a coating over the course of minutes or even a day or more. But continuous emersion or exposure can destroy a coating that is rated for exposure to that exact same solvent.
Fun fact: some of the coatings we apply have excellent solvent, acid and chemical resistance. But one thing listed in many spec sheets is that mustard can discolor the top coat even with minimal exposure. Yes mustard. Not gasoline, battery acid, oils or any strong solvents.
OP
Its my thread I will allow it. But this thread is full of a bunch of useful information from swapping regulator covers and how to paint them and how solvents affect coatings to hotdogs. One may say this is the most encompassing thread ever posted on SB.
I am going to go with regulators probably do not encounter mustard very often in normal use 
.
On the 195 cover, I would prep and shoot with a metallic sky blue and then get some open mesh, 1/4" screen or similar and then lay that over the cover and shoot some mustard metallic yellow (
), both from One Hit Wonder paints, and then let it cure and maybe get some black Krylon and spray my gloved hand until it drips and then flick it on the cover or spray some on a clean paper and then use a natural sponge to pick it up and sponge on a few spots. Let it cure and then overshoot with 2K satin.
.On the 195 cover, I would prep and shoot with a metallic sky blue and then get some open mesh, 1/4" screen or similar and then lay that over the cover and shoot some mustard metallic yellow (
), both from One Hit Wonder paints, and then let it cure and maybe get some black Krylon and spray my gloved hand until it drips and then flick it on the cover or spray some on a clean paper and then use a natural sponge to pick it up and sponge on a few spots. Let it cure and then overshoot with 2K satin.Similar threads
