pescador775:
That's why sensible people put springstraps on their jetfins, whether new or old.
well this bites...
- Thread starter JahJahwarrior
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
That's why sensible people put springstraps on their jetfins, whether new or old.
captain
Contributor
Here is the DOT site with a list of all authorized hydro testers listed state by state and by the testers ID stamp. Go to "Avaiable files and documents" than "hydrostatic retesters"
Moderators, this should be made a sticky in the tanks forum.
http://hazmat.dot.gov/sp_app/approva..._retesters.htm
__________________
Moderators, this should be made a sticky in the tanks forum.
http://hazmat.dot.gov/sp_app/approva..._retesters.htm
__________________
DennisW
Contributor
JahJahwarrior:how much? When are you in Sebastion, and where exactly in florida is it?
eddy current testing... gonna google it.
Sebastian is on US 1 just North of Vero Beach on the East coast of Florida. You paid $20, I'll give you $25 as is. If it passes hydro, I'll give you $40.
Unfortunately, I have to be in Virginia on the 12th of September, so I'm driving up on the 11th. My last warm water dive for a while will be on the 10th assuming the weather cooperates.
OP
I might take you up on that...I'll have to see how much shipping is. I can send you good pictures of the entire tank to make sure that you think it's worth your money. I'll also try calling that local place--I tried some google searches but couldn't figure out a local place. No clue sometimes how people find out this info, and I'm a veteran forum user too.
As far as the J valve goes, I have a replacement K valve I think, coming from a friend who told me I should change it. I told her I'd rather not, because this one should be fine, and she offered to give me a K valve she had lying around if she could find it. If I got the tank hydroed, she'd give me the K valve. Then I'd see if maybe anyone wanted to buy a J valve
Dennis: How are you driving up? going along the coast, or near Gville?
As far as the J valve goes, I have a replacement K valve I think, coming from a friend who told me I should change it. I told her I'd rather not, because this one should be fine, and she offered to give me a K valve she had lying around if she could find it. If I got the tank hydroed, she'd give me the K valve. Then I'd see if maybe anyone wanted to buy a J valve
Dennis: How are you driving up? going along the coast, or near Gville?
DennisW
Contributor
JahJahwarrior:
I'll be driving up I-95. Going through Gainesville would be way out of the way. I am a Gator though, Electrical Engineering 1978. Met my wife in Physics class right next to Weil Hall.
OP
My dad was going to major in electrical engineering. Then he decided to become an anestheliologist. Didn't go to UF though, but he works for them now at Shands.
Well, depending on what the local hydro place says, and depending on what you think of the tank after I get you good pictures, which may or may not happen, depending on if I get the tank hydroed or not, then we could work out a deal
Well, depending on what the local hydro place says, and depending on what you think of the tank after I get you good pictures, which may or may not happen, depending on if I get the tank hydroed or not, then we could work out a deal
divinginn
Contributor
after seeing a crack in a older alum tank,i dont want to be closer than 50ft under pressure,scared the crap out of me when the teck showed me the crack in the neck. there are some of the multi outlet adapters on ebay for about 15.oo dollars,your diveshop may have them.
pescador775
Contributor
- Messages
- 2,652
- Reaction score
- 12
Jah Jah, there is some nonsense going around that a regulator will "bottom" when the tank has zero psi, and that there will be no indication that you are running out of air before it bottoms. There is no truth in this. The regulator will start to bottom when the tank has about 120 psi gauge. This is easy to recognize; simply, the regulator will seem hard to breath. After you check the valve knob and the gauge and confirm this situation, begin a slow swimming ascent. As you ascend, the water pressure will diminish and the gauge pressure will increase causing your air supply to increase keeping pace with your swimming ascent. However, you may have to rise at a speed of 60 fpm vice 30 fpm. Don't be concerned about this unless you are already in deco status, not likely in most situations which you will encounter as a newbie diver. I'm telling you this because the "out of air" situation is almost always due to diver error or a stuck gauge and not regulator malfunction--and that you can bale safely. In the old days, a swimming ascent was not uncommon. I have tested a MK20/G250 in a "no air" situation and it behaves the same as my double hose regulator which was manufactured in 1965. I specifically chose the Scubapro reg because they originated the "large piston" air flow story which lead to the myth.
Gauge pressure is also known as "differential pressure" and even though your SPG may read zero or near zero, some air will remain in the tank.
Gauge pressure is also known as "differential pressure" and even though your SPG may read zero or near zero, some air will remain in the tank.
OP
In class they had us feel what it was like to have your valve shut on you. One day, I'd like to breathe a tank dry, maybe in a pool or something with a buddy next to me. I just want to know what it feels like.
JahJahwarrior:
It feels like "Oh, chit!"
Similar threads
