Vintage doubles - worth it?

[HenrikBP]

Thanks Pete. I actually snagged that picture of yours from another post you'd made. That is exactly how i was planning to set it up.

I figured I'd be using either a Conshelf IVX or an SP MK5/R109 combo on that second post.

I remember a thread - here on SB I believe - where hose length and location of such a second 2nd stage was discussed. I was thinking a 5' hose - with the excess tucked in the waist belt - with the reg on a bungee necklace with the loop for the mouthpiece loose enough that the reg can be pulled loose.

I also need to find/make/buy a mouthpiece plug for the double-hose. Luis, did your design ever make it into production? I looked but didn't find it on the VDH website.

Henrik

 

[HenrikBP]

I got the manifold and will clean it up a bit before shooting pictures ... it's a bit more "rough" than what I'd hoped - some you win, some you loose. I'll see what it looks like when I get it cleaned up.

There is indeed no "reserve" valve. It is as Luis wrote just one big plug.

Questions:

- are both sides of the center bar standard (right hand) thread, or does one side have reverse threads? One side came loose by hand, the other is a bit more "rough" and won't budge, so I want to make sure I'm torquing in the right direction once I've had the parts soaking for a bit.

- the center bar seals to each of the 2 side sections with a press-fit cone (can't remember the technical term). Is that a fairly "solid" connection? I honestly thought it was a barrel o-ring type connection - live and learn.

Thanks,

Henrik

 

[Luis H]

Both sides are right hand threads and they are the same. That is why you can swap the two sides.

The seal is brass to brass. In the Sherwood, it is the exact same fitting used by some firefighting SCBA tanks to regulator connection. I think the US Divers use the oxygen fitting used in large tanks.

The connection is extremely solid if it is clean, not scratched, and properly assembled. Sometimes they become hard to get a perfect seal if they are not clean, but if it is sealed they are extremely reliable. A metal to metal seal will not have a catastrophic blown O-ring failure that can happen (at least in theory) when you have an O-ring connection.

 

[HenrikBP]

Thanks Luis. It makes sense about the "side swapping" now that you mention it.

Good to know it's a solid connection. Just need to find bands that will fit the manifold width (I measured 8") and also will work with a backplate.

Henrik

 

[captain]

Thanks Luis. It makes sense about the "side swapping" now that you mention it.

Good to know it's a solid connection. Just need to find bands that will fit the manifold width (I measured 8") and also will work with a backplate.

Henrik

Spacing is normally closer to 8-1/8 to 8-1/4. I would think any back plate would work but you might want to consider a military strap harness.

 

[HenrikBP]

I finally got the manifold apart this weekend. Took some time and effort too.

As you will see in the pictures:

ScubaBoard Gallery - Sherwood Selpac Dual Outlet Manifold

the manifold is bit "rough", and I had to soak it for hours in Salt-X before I finally got the last "side" off the cross-bar.

The chrome is a bit hazed and pitted - one side more than the other, and some ham-fisted sledge hammer "technician" put bench vise marks and tool marks on the pieces too. Some people shouldn't be allowed near tools

The connecting ends are pretty much without chrome, and I'm wondering if it's worth it to give the flat surfaces and maybe the threads some Tribolube for protection?

I also included a couple of photos of the plug replacing the reserve lever.

I'm going to look through the service manual (Thanks Luis) and see what parts need to be replaced. From what I've read so far the manual says to replace the teflon washers on the valve stem. I'm thinking I'd also need to replace the crush washers.

Henrik

 

[Luis H]

The chrome could be better, but it is very usable.

There is no chrome in the joint area. The seal is brass to brass. Do not get any lubricant or any other substance anywhere near the sealing area. I would be very careful about using any lubricant on the threads. That is just too close to the sealing surface. In my experience, any foreign substance in the sealing surface and will not seal.

Good luck.

 

[HenrikBP]

The chrome could be better, but it is very usable.

Good luck.

Thanks Luis,

Yes, very useable. I was just disappointed in the state of it when I received it. Live and learn.

I'll be careful with lubricants when I go to assemble

Henrik