US Divers Metal second stages, Why not?

[HM_legon]

It's not just the T itself, it's also the actual exhaust valve diameter (for most of them... Some screw on T 1085's have a larger valve). I'm generally not bothered by it, but I've seen a Kirby Morgan box that used a screw on flange for the press on T. I could try to model one up, or just model a screw on T to mimic the critical properties. Then if you want to get real tedious you can use a Dremel to open the exhaust spider to the larger size.

Respectfully,

James

That sounds like the best solution to me, honestly I could probably take a Crack at it on my own. Just finished taking a class on solidworks anyway.

The main reason I wanted to effective "update" these older second stages is so I don't get any grief from my dive club, as my buddy might mind more than me.

Thanks for the info,
Legon

 

[HM_legon]

@HM_legon, in a word, no. The later 1085 boxes are common and cheap enough that it just wouldn’t be worth the effort or cost. In the last six months I’ve gotten a couple of orphan 1085 boxes one in excellent shape, one needing a major overhaul, and paid less than a C-note total for both. Gotta love flea bay!

I'm always looking for a good deal, didn't know those were still floating around! I'll keep a look out for em, thanks.

 

[USdiver1]

For recreational depths and workloads, even the smaller exhaust valve equipped 1085s are not limiting. Dive with confidence any of the Connies.

 

[rx7diver]

I'm surprised that @Nemrod hasn't chimed in yet. He has (used to have?) a serious Connie habit, I think.

rx7diver

 

[USdiver1]

I'm surprised that @Nemrod hasn't chimed in yet. He has (used to have?) a serious Connie habit, I think.

rx7diver

True dat, but methinks the SP G250 bug has gotten to Nem of late.

 

[Green Frog]

Modern plastics can be made with a variety of characteristics including perhaps those needed for a second stage in a scuba rig, but for me there’s just something reassuring about a good old solid metal second stage, The rest of the diving I’ll likely to do in my life will likely be low stress and casual, but I want t feel as comfortable and confident with my gear as possible. To misquote Paul Simon, ”Momma, don’t take my brass Conshelf awaaay!”

 

[Scott G. Bonser]

Hello SB,

I've recently been tinkering with a set of USD metal second stages, Conshelf supreme and deepstar 2, I got in a steal of scubamuesum.
These paired with a pair of conshelf se2 first stages I got when I first got into diving, I making a pretty sweet looking retro single hose set-up.
when I first got these two conshelf se2's they both had gauges, bcd hoses and second stages, but they were all the crappy plastic second stages cracked that they don't make anymore, so I sat them in my closet and got a newer used scubapro rig.
Now that I've dabbled in servicing the first and second stages, I'm curious why they stopped making these style of second stages? to me they seem to simple to mess up.
With my Scubapro mk2 set up I mentioned earlier, the shop near my college has,
broken the shell of my second stage,
gave it back to me like a steam engine
when I took it back, they gave it back to me, 2 hoses loose and it still makes the noise.

With this conshelf set, I've done all the servicing myself with youtube tutorials, an parts from online, and it works flawlessly.
on top of that, my home shop says they will not service the conshelf second stages anyway, saying something about Aqua Lung calling an end of life for those models.

also slightly unrelated, does anyone know if the exhaust t's off the newer plastic us diver seconds, fit on the older metal shells? I know the military contact ones look real similar to the seconds I have, and they take the exhaust T's that I have on all my old cracked plastic US divers seconds.

Is there something I'm missing, or does getting an older proven reg like the conshelf first and seconds, and working on it yourself for literately 1/10th the cost just make more sense?

Thanks,
Legon

The metal 2nds are the way to go and easily serviced by the owner. You can’t go wrong with these regs. Don’t be fooled. The parts are out there. The Scuba Museum may have these and a few dive shops such as Tarpoon Diving Center can an do service these regs. You will be pleased with what you have and can find. Green Frog has been getting pretty good with servicing his own recently. My Best to You

 

[HM_legon]

The metal 2nds are the way to go and easily serviced by the owner. You can’t go wrong with these regs. Don’t be fooled. The parts are out there. The Scuba Museum may have these and a few dive shops such as Tarpoon Diving Center can an do service these regs. You will be pleased with what you have and can find. Green Frog has been getting pretty good with servicing his own recently. My Best to You

Just got a SP 108 aswell, I love it so far.

 

[Green Frog]

I'm always looking for a good deal, didn't know those were still floating around! I'll keep a look out for em, thanks.

As I said, I’ve just watched eBay for bargains. If you’re worried about rebuild parts, even though Aqua Lung has gotten kinda chintzy with their parts, the after market array of parts will do well for you. In fact, in the 1085 “box” there is nothing generic except the exhaust valve and the exhaust T mentioned earlier. And fortunately they seldom need replacement in a normal “annual service”.
Be sure and look at the recent threads like mine in Vintage Dive Gear… in one of them Rob Singler kindly provided the generic source codes you’ll need for aftermarket parts. If you get serious about reg repair @rsingler teaches a highly regarded repair course online several times a year.
Best regards,
Charlie the Frog

 

[Nemrod]

I'm surprised that @Nemrod hasn't chimed in yet. He has (used to have?) a serious Connie habit, I think.

rx7diver

Gosh. From the beginning of my scuba diving I have used USD/AL1085 second stages of all manner. The brass and chrome 1085 is a fine second stage and exceedingly durable. It has a strong and well designed Venturi and a simple, easily serviced design. And the huge exhaust valve and manifold are hardly exceeded by anything even now for low exhaust effort. The 1085 is one of the all time greats. Yes, it will become quite ugly as the chrome peels and green verdigris patina replaces and the dents and scratches add undeniable character but yet the old 1085 soldiers on.

The plastic USD/AL second stages were bad about cracking and just never were interesting to me. The Scubapro G250 and similar including the current G260 are 20% fiber reinforced polymer and are as strong or stronger than the old 1085 and can take equally serious abuse and are not prone to cracking. In the Red Sea trip a tank fell hard on one of my G250 second stages and popped the cover off. Thinking it surely was damaged I was delighted to find not even a scratch, screwed the cover back on and now some near 100 dives later it is going strong. Had it been a 1085 it would have taken the hit and shook it off with a couple of new character dents .

BTW, I have a NIB Conshelf XIV Supreme first and second stage (with box) and a very nice second 1085 possibly for sale, thinking on it. It is my last, maybe. All others are gone replaced by, yes, the vaunted G250 .

And, just to add, I am referring to the large manifold and exhaust valve 1085 seconds with the slip on tee. The two screw early versions of the 1085, are in my opinion, not acceptable for scuba diving and should be retired. The restrictive exhaust can cause CO2 retention and exhaustion, been there and done that.