Unscrewing DIN regulator from tank valve

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

galodoido

Contributor
Messages
251
Reaction score
85
Location
United States
# of dives
I just don't log dives
I just read that you can mess up your DIN regulator if you unscrew it by moving the whole system back and forth, instead of only using the collar to uncouple it from the tank valve.

I was always careful about fully bleeding the pressure and only using the collar to unscrew but there have been instances where it was a little tight and I may have slightly moved the whole system while attempting to unscrew.

How easy is it for you to mess up your regulator if you do something like that? Or is that more of a concern for someone who consistently uses the whole system to unscrew their DIN fittings?
 
I guess the worry is that you could loosen the DIN retainer from the regulator body instead of from the tank valve. If you were to do that and there was some pressure in the valve, the o-ring sealing the retainer to the body could extrude and get damaged. Then you'd have a leak that would be fixed by removing the retainer and replacing the o-ring. It's not anything permanent.

But, the DIN fitting in the tank should never be anywhere near tight enough to force you to turn the whole regulator to remove it. You just need to make sure that ALL the pressure is out of the valve, and don't leave the regulator attached for days or even hours after a salt water dive. If you do both of those things and it's still really tight, maybe I would try loosening it at the collar with some padded channel lock pliers, it shouldn't take much.

When you attach the reg to the tank, keep in mind that you don't need to get it very tight, just enough to make sure the o-ring is contacting the facing surface in the valve. There's nothing wrong with having a look in the valve before hand, maybe wiping the threads and sealing face with a clean dry cloth, and even cracking it open to let out a puff of air, just to make sure there's nothing in there, before attaching your reg.
 
I’ve witnessed people unscrewing the reg from the DIN while trying to remove the reg from the tank valve. As mentioned above, the reg, whether DIN or yoke, should be only finger tight, never cranked. Sadly, I’ve seen plenty of people wrenching down the reg.
 
Common issue is that you loosen the connecting shaft (or whatever "DIN Anschlußwelle" is in proper English :D) from the body of the first stage. You usually notice it when opening the tank and it is easily fixed by tighening again. Never leave home without th eproper allen wrench :).
 
I see. I believe I probably tighten it more than I should. I will try to be more careful. So if something happens I would just notice a leak of some sort in the first stage?
 
I see. I believe I probably tighten it more than I should. I will try to be more careful. So if something happens I would just notice a leak of some sort in the first stage?
I've dived DIN regs all my diving career (some 10-ish years). I make the reg/tank connection just finger-tight and have never had issues breaking my gear down. Neither any issues with leaks. Even in sub-freezing temps. If it leaks, it blows, and you're pretty sure to notice that. Usually on the surface before the dive.
 
As already covered, no need to over tighten but when it’s to tight and you use. The reg body for leverage and you loosen the din retainer make sure you tighten it back up before you pressurize it again, to protect the small oring that seals the reg end.
 
All good information above. I might add it would be a good idea for the OP or anyone with a DIN regulator to have the proper tools to remove, inspect the seals, re-torque, and reinstall the fitting. I suppose the same should be said for a yoke fitting, but they have less tendency to loosen.

@ahcalde what make and model first stage are you using?
 
@couv Apeks Tek3. I did not have an issue yet, but I did notice I probably tighten it more than I should and may sometimes accidentally slightly move the entire system when uncoupling it from the tank valves.
 
@couv Apeks Tek3. I did not have an issue yet, but I did notice I probably tighten it more than I should and may sometimes accidentally slightly move the entire system when uncoupling it from the tank valves.

The underlined phrase is what concerns me. How do you know if you have moved the entire first stage rather than the DIN to regulator body connection? I think it is best to be sure. Attached is an Apeks manual-not the Tek3, but I'm pretty sure the salient points can be found re the DIN fitting. Looks pretty simple with only a 6mm allen wrench required. (you can use a luggage scale if you don't have a torque wrench) If not, I'm sure my fellow regulator aficionados will correct me.
 

Attachments

  • Apeks first stage manual .pdf
    1.4 MB · Views: 585
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom