Unscrewing DIN regulator from tank valve

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@couv I mean, if something happened wouldn't I have noticed a leak? I used the regulator just yesterday with no issues.
 
@couv Apeks Tek3. I did not have an issue yet, but I did notice I probably tighten it more than I should and may sometimes accidentally slightly move the entire system when uncoupling it from the tank valves.

One thing that might help you to mentally allow yourself to leave it looser is to remember: the rubber O-ring makes the seal. It needs only a small amount of tightness to completely seal. Tightening it down more doesn’t help it be sealed any better! Think plastic jar lid — certainly no harder than a glass jelly jar!

And don’t obsess about whether you’ve accidentally slightly moved the regulator while loosening it. First of all, on a properly tightened DIN regulator, it takes a fair amount of force to loosen that. Second of all, it’s extremely simple to “fix“ it if you do loosen it: make sure you have the proper hex wrench and tighten it. Actually, for me, using my fingers to “tighten“ the end of the DIN fitting on my regulator when I take it off the tank has become part of my habit. If I think it is even the tiniest bit loose or whatever, I simply grab the Allen wrench and tighten it.

And once again, this is not a fitting that you need to ape down on. The fitting is brass, and if you over tighten it, you will break it. Think tightening a screw, not a bolt.

Hopefully that helps you to relax a little bit: both to relax when tightening down on the DIN wheel, and about accidentally breaking your regulators! :)
 
@couv I mean, if something happened wouldn't I have noticed a leak? I used the regulator just yesterday with no issues.
Yes, think like a missing or blown O-Ring on a yoke connection. You open the tank valve and you hear gas escaping. My course of action: Is the connection to the tank ok, then disassemble and check if the O-ring is still there (sometimes they fall out or get stuck in the tank valve, and most of the times I find that the DIN connection is slighly loose. Usually you get it thight enough using your fingers, just don't forget to properly tighten before your next dive.
 
@couv Apeks Tek3. I did not have an issue yet, but I did notice I probably tighten it more than I should and may sometimes accidentally slightly move the entire system when uncoupling it from the tank valves.

Your in luck the Tek3 is a super simple reg to work on. If you do loosen it all you need is a 6mm hex key to tighten it. Also Apeks was clever and the O-ring that seals that is the exact same o-ring that is on a standard 3/8" hose/LP port which if you don't have spares any dive shop world will have tons of them or mostly likely someone on your boat will have too.

Also just in case you wanted I was looking through all my old reg maintenance files and came across a Tek3 one I have. Also a while back I made a 100% scale sketch of most of the Apeks o-rings and also listed the Apeks part numbers with the AS568 size so you can just order the o-rings from McMaster or oringstore.com One file is for A4 paper and for the Americans one file is 8.5x11 just make sure on your printer options you print it at 1:1 scale.
 

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  • 1st Stage ds_us_tek3 - Issue 1 (14-11-2006).pdf
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  • Apeks o ring drawing 8.5x11.pdf
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  • Apeks o ring drawing.pdf
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All good information above. I might add it would be a good idea for the OP or anyone with a DIN regulator to have the proper tools to remove, inspect the seals, re-torque, and reinstall the fitting.

This is going way overboard. There is no need to buy the tools, especially if the user doesn’t truly understand what to do. A more appropriate action is to tighten the DIN / yoke finger tight. The later is the smarter and proper move to take. If one wants to spend money, go to someone who is familiar and experienced with tightening regs to show you how to do it properly. Afterwards buy them a drink (coffee, soda, tea, beer, wine, rum, or whatever that person wants).
 
What about a small amount of loctite to make the din piece less likely to loosen from the first stage? Bad idea? (to be clear I mean between the din fitting to first stage body, not on the tank threads)
 
What about a small amount of loctite to make the din piece less likely to loosen from the first stage? Bad idea? (to be clear I mean between the din fitting to first stage body, not on the tank threads)
Bad idea.
 
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Bad idea.

Meh. Sherwood specifies Loctite 271 on that fitting for exactly that reason. (Tech Bulletin 104 for the curious.) Having said that, I’ve never used it, and never felt the need. I just make sure it’s tight (just with my fingers) every time I put it on and off, and if I have any doubts I use an Allen wrench to make sure it’s snug. If it pressurized without a leak and passes a bubble check, it’s not going anywhere for that dive.
 
There is no need to buy the tools,

If you don't know how to use an allen wrench please refrain from making suggestions in this thread.
 

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