Tumbling

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duckbill

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I have a few quick tumbling questions.

1) Dry vs. wet tumbling. When to use which?

2) When wet tumbling, can't rust start forming in the time it takes to remove the media, especially through 1/2" openings? If so, what's the point of tumbling for light rust in the first place? (This, assuming no rust inhibitors are used) Would dry tumbling be better in such cases?

3) Where can aluminum oxide media (about 1/4") be obtained for a reasonable price? Or, is there a suitable locally-obtainable medium that could be used?

Thanks.
 
Quartz pebbles
 
I have a few quick tumbling questions.

3) Where can aluminum oxide media (about 1/4") be obtained for a reasonable price? Or, is there a suitable locally-obtainable medium that could be used?

Thanks.

Someone told be NorthEast Scuba Supply has aluminum oxide for sale. I have yet to buy any.
 
I don't think it matters much about wet or dry; as soon as you're finished you rinse the tank with hot water anyway. I think the important thing is to rinse with really hot water, then blast air until the tank is dry.
 
Air blasting with anything but air is best, last time I did my cylinders I used CO2 (my beer was a little flat but my cylinders were rust free).
 
Thanks. Air is my only option at this point.

I figured a rinse would be quicker after getting dry media out than having the wet media adding to the duration the tank is exposed to moisture after the tumble.

More quick questions:

1) How "wet" is a wet media tumble? Is the media just whetted, or is there standing water over the top of the media. In other words, picturing gravel and water in a column, where would the water line be with reference to the top surface of the gravel?

2) What are some effective methods to get wet media out of a 1/2" cylinder? Tricks and hints appreciated.

Thanks again.
 
Wet is usually with some type of cleaning agent or an acid solution. I made one of these tank stands and I rinse with hot water and then use air connected to the same hose to dry it The tank will dry in less than a minute. I have an oilless shop compressor and use that to blow dry the tank.

Internal Tank Washer

This is available at most hardware and marine stores, it is pretty much the same as what global sell as acid cleaner.

Ospho Rust Treatment - Since 1947

http://www.gmcscuba.com/ProductInfo/42070.aspx

You can use diluted Zep Industrial Purple available at Home depot. I happens to be blue just like the global product, coincidence?

Zep Commercial | Products

http://www.gmcscuba.com/ProductInfo/42100OX.aspx
 
Even when wet tumbling there should be no issue with rust forming while getting the media out of the tank. As soon as the media is out, rinse with hot water, pour in some flash rust preventitive and swirl it around real good. then you can drain again and dry with forced air.....never had a problem with flash rust.
 
We tumble every week...GMC is the best place to buy - the library is great reference material. Use air from regulator be sure and rinse with the O2 clean rinse it will stop rust.
Hope you have a lot of tanks. this is very costly for a few tanks. we do on average 12 to 15 a week and it is very noisy and dirty.
 
Thanks guys. And thankyou for all that great information, Captain. I think I can make a stand like the one shown without too much difficulty.

I found out I cannot order directly from GMC. I had to go through a retailer to buy a whip.

So how do people get wet media out of a 1/2" neck? I would imagine that fully inverting the tank will just clog the opening? Do you roll it out? Maybe while tipping the tumbler while the tank is rotating on the tumbler? Do you have to add water as you are removing the media? I have no idea.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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