Threading for DIN and YOKE valves

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I just shot an email to this seller:

Scuba Tank - Steel 100 CF - High Pressure, Boot, Net, Cap

I figured I can look at it up close. Hopefully I can just use an adapter for the time being until I can convert over to DIN. And yes this is a 3442 psi tank. I know I've seen some that go to well over 4000 (I want to say 4750), so I can clearly understand the need for going DIN only at those pressures.

As tobin mentioned above. I should have said if you have a 200 bar din. if so, you can use the adapter. It will not work on a 300 bar din tank valve.

sorry
 
I just shot an email to this seller:

Scuba Tank - Steel 100 CF - High Pressure, Boot, Net, Cap

I figured I can look at it up close. Hopefully I can just use an adapter for the time being until I can convert over to DIN. And yes this is a 3442 psi tank. I know I've seen some that go to well over 4000 (I want to say 4750), so I can clearly understand the need for going DIN only at those pressures.

spun steel japanese asahi tank unfortunately. butt heavy and trims not as well as pst/worthington
 
spun steel japanese asahi tank unfortunately. butt heavy and trims not as well as pst/worthington
Also, born date is April 2012, so next spring you'll have to get it hydo'd.
 
Thanks for pointing that out. I think maybe I should just pay the extra money and get a new tank. Too much trouble going used on this item.
 
I just shot an email to this seller:

Scuba Tank - Steel 100 CF - High Pressure, Boot, Net, Cap

I figured I can look at it up close. Hopefully I can just use an adapter for the time being until I can convert over to DIN. And yes this is a 3442 psi tank. I know I've seen some that go to well over 4000 (I want to say 4750), so I can clearly understand the need for going DIN only at those pressures.

200 and 300 bar valves can be easily obtained with 3/4" tank threads, and either can be fit to 3442 tanks.....

However the 200 bar valves (which accept the din inserts and will accommodate yoke valves) will be fit with safeties for LP tanks, and may well be marked with a service pressure.

Tobin
 
Only down side to the convertible "pro valves" is that the plug threads are exposed on the water side of the o-ring seal. So if your diving in salt water, you want to take extra care to rinse well, and maybe even remove the plug.

Caveeagle, could you (or someone else) please elaborate on this point?

I'm using steel 3442 100s with "pro valves" for the first season (in salt water), and it never occurred to me that I should rinse or potentially remove plugs. Should I rinse with garden hose, soak in some kind of bucket, or really remove the plugs every once in a while? If latter, how often?

Many thanks.
 
@Scuba-74

The plugs can get essentially frozen in with whatever can work it's way in due to the coarse thread., Salt, grit, etc.
 
@Scuba-74

The plugs can get essentially frozen in with whatever can work it's way in due to the coarse thread., Salt, grit, etc.

That makes sense. I just have a feeling that I can cause at least as much damage by rinsing/soaking them though... In theory nothing should get into the plug at least through the hexagonal hole while it's pressurized, but it may if I'll start rinsing/soaking it after the dive.
 
That makes sense. I just have a feeling that I can cause at least as much damage by rinsing/soaking them though... In theory nothing should get into the plug at least through the hexagonal hole while it's pressurized, but it may if I'll start rinsing/soaking it after the dive.

So using DIN/pro valves, the installed plug adds two o rings to the tank valve assembly. A reg-to-plug. And a plug-to-valve seal.

You are correct that you should not get water/salt intrusion into the hex hole, but there is nothing to stop water/salt from getting into the DIN threads all the way up to the external side of the plug-to-valve seal.

Best scenario is to remove the plug and rinse, but I probably would not do this every dive/day. You can soak in warm water for an hour or more to get more salt out. Yes, water will get in the valve, all the way up to the hp seat. As long as this is fresh water, just make sure you blow the valve dry when you remove, and certainly before you hook up for the next fill, or that water is going straight into your tank.
 
The issue at point is that the threads of the insert are outside any seal done by o-rings, and can/will get locked up...

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https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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