Threading for DIN and YOKE valves

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Best scenario is to remove the plug and rinse, but I probably would not do this every dive/day. You can soak in warm water for an hour or more to get more salt out. Yes, water will get in the valve, all the way up to the hp seat. As long as this is fresh water, just make sure you blow the valve dry when you remove, and certainly before you hook up for the next fill, or that water is going straight into your tank.

Water going into the tank is a scary prospect... And I thought this piece of my gear will be the least of my worries :eek:.

So, in the actual DIN configuration none of it should be an issue, correct?
 
Water going into the tank is a scary prospect... And I thought this piece of my gear will be the least of my worries :eek:.

So, in the actual DIN configuration none of it should be an issue, correct?

Correct Denis, with a 300 bar valve the "plug" is the DIN portion of the reg so it gets pulled and cleaned every time. The only thing remaining is the flat face that the O-ring seals against.

Converting over to DIN permanently is a very easy swap and pretty inexpensive depending on brand. If you have DIN you can more easily use an adapter if you need to use a yoke tank.
 
Correct Denis, with a 300 bar valve the "plug" is the DIN portion of the reg so it gets pulled and cleaned every time. The only thing remaining is the flat face that the O-ring seals against.

Converting over to DIN permanently is a very easy swap and pretty inexpensive depending on brand. If you have DIN you can more easily use an adapter if you need to use a yoke tank.

Thanks, Ed. I'll think about converting eventually. I want to first remove the plugs and see how it looks. I haven't done that since I bought the tanks last fall, about 14-16 dives ago. I have two yoke regs that I might switch eventually to DIN if the area around the plugs look contaminated in some way.
 
Correct Denis, with a 300 bar valve the "plug" is the DIN portion of the reg so it gets pulled and cleaned every time. The only thing remaining is the flat face that the O-ring seals against.
There are no plugs for 300Bar DIN valves. They are too thick for a yoke reg to fit over,

The common covertible "pro valves" -are all 200 Bar DIN (or something very close). They also all have a dimple on the back face of the valve to allow for the yoke screw clamp.

Converting over to DIN permanently is a very easy swap and pretty inexpensive depending on brand. If you have DIN you can more easily use an adapter if you need to use a yoke tank.

This is a highly debated topic. Do a search on DIN or Yoke and get ready for lot of spirited conjecture.
 
The common covertible "pro valves" -are all 200 Bar DIN (or something very close). They also all have a dimple on the back face of the valve to allow for the yoke screw clamp.

My valves have 3442psi marking on them. They do have dimples.

I wonder what was the target group for the invention of these plugs, if they are so prone to contamination, and why these plugs are still manufactured. Just the folks who happen to own DIN valves and yoke regs, and who dive predominantly fresh water? Seems to be rather narrow...
 
My valves have 3442psi marking on them. They do have dimples.
They are 200 Bar valves. It is the # of threads inside the valve that determine this.

I wonder what was the target group for the invention of these plugs, if they are so prone to contamination, and why these plugs are still manufactured. Just the folks who happen to own DIN valves and yoke regs, and who dive predominantly fresh water? Seems to be rather narrow...

Really no more prone to contamination than a typical regulator that's not environmentally sealed. People often just don't think to rinse their tank valves.
 
This is much do do about nothing aside from some routine preventive maintenance, or you will have a Pro-Valve that is only a Yoke.....
 
The Pro valves are quite popular on Liveaboards and destinations with lots of US and European guests, who may have yoke or DIN regs. Of course, such places tend to rinse their tanks and thus avoid rather normal and unsurprising salt-water issues.
 
I have a much better grip on the subject thanks to everyone's input! I will make a habit of rinsing tanks periodically from now on.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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