That question again - primary light recommendations

[Underwater Tourist]

@Lorenzoid @PfcAJ and how often that happened to you?
Is it something that i can expected 1/per dive or more like 1/year?

 

[PfcAJ]

@Lorenzoid @PfcAJ and how often that happened to you?
Is it something that i can expected 1/per dive or more like 1/year?

If the cord is starting to go, it’ll keep happening over and over again till it’s replaced.

Cords are consumables.

With an LED is a momentary flicker and you can just deal with it for an extended period till the repair can be made. Mildly annoying but not a showstopper. With HID, the light turns off till you manually restart it. That quickly becomes a showstopper.

 

[Lorenzoid]

@Lorenzoid @PfcAJ and how often that happened to you?
Is it something that i can expected 1/per dive or more like 1/year?

I wasn't even referring to a malfunctioning connection--I never experienced that. I just meant that if you turn the HID off for any reason, you shouldn't immediately turn it back on.

 

[kensuf]

Found this video, it does a nice comparison:




Golem sells LM HIDs: Light Monkey HID Primary Lights

My HID used to look real pretty in the Diepolder cave system. Too bad they are closed.

 

[Underwater Tourist]

thank you everybody for their input

 

[Alaskan Scuba Dude]

Can the can—follow the plan. No dive light is fail-safe; hence the 3-light rule. No light can punch through a halocline or silt-outs in major restrictions. Only the guideline and a compass can allow you safe exit. When purchasing a dive light, consider rechargeable and standard batteries in the mix—minimum 2-hour burn time. Look for sturdy and replaceable O-rings (lube with food-grade silicone after opening)—a combination of switch and twist on/off—depth rated to 330—500 feet. Soft or hard Goodman handle—your preference. 10 to 8 degree angle on the beam—600-lumen is sufficient in most limestone caves. My own selection is 600—2300 lumen on demand. My 4-lights combined come in under $300. I also prefer the canister light (able to clip off at the right angle for hands free or in case of emergencies) over the hand held but will alternate in different situations—wreck or recreational for example. Don’t pay too much at the beginning. Good cheap quality lights can be found on eBay, Piranha Dive Manufacture or DGX.

I learn from the best I learn from the worst.

 

[MattK911]

Yesterday I dove with a guy that was on an older 21W HID light. Throughout the dive I kept thinking to myself that perfection was had when we were diving double 104s and HID lights, such a beautiful color temperature and perfect amount of spillover.

And I kept thinking about how nice your Focus 2 looked my first lights were 21w hid’s (LM, salvo, and halcyon). I did one dive borrowing a focus 1.0 and was sold. Bought one the moment I could afford it. Just upgraded to a Focus 2.0 with a 20ah FATHOM battery pack and couldn’t be happier

 

[Underwater Tourist]

Has anybody used ammonite or has any thoughts on the brand?

Specifically, this caught my attention: Umbilical Dive Light - Led Nautilus

 

[Merida Cave Diver]

I recently made this

D630 Review

I’ve used this light for about 100 dives, really like it, great price. Feel free to ask me whatever you like. I use a Big Blue 4800 as my secondary.

 

[helios]

Has anybody used ammonite or has any thoughts on the brand?

Specifically, this caught my attention: Umbilical Dive Light - Led Nautilus

I've got a Solaris NG and a Stingray mk II. I'm taking my intro course next year, but am really happy with the lights for general use. Planning on getting another Stingray as my second backup.