Question Canister lights: 90degree SM attachment vs regular, and adjustable power levels

[rjack321]

A couple manufacturers are trying out a dual purpose light head that contains a central, high-output, spot LED surrounded by several smaller perimeter LED's for the flood. This makes it possible to project both a spot and flood at the same. The cost of using both at the same time is, of course, drastically reduced battery life. I'm not sure if this has any real-world advantage over variable focus light heads which maintain the same power usage as they narrow and widen their beams.

I suppose one could argue that there is one less failure point as the variable focus designs likely use an additional large seal. Also, some have reported Light Monkey's variable focus ring to be difficult to turn and adjust.

Considering what others have stated in the above replies, what really turns me off about the Tecline teclight is the inability to adjust brightness/power level; seems like a standard feature on most canister lights.

View attachment 918473
View attachment 918474

TECLINE TECLIGHT - Teclinediving

Like I said, 120 degrees is a video light. Those go on the arms of your light tray. If you really want to illuminate a cave for your videographer buddy, then get a hand mount for a video light. You seem to want one light to rule them all - in the process it will do nearly nothing great.

 

[InWay2Deep]

I dive sidemount 100% of the time and have a 90* Canister light w/ dual output (light+heater). I run my canister DIR style on my belt though and actually like the 90* there. I tuck the heater cord down under my waist belt and it's the perfect length to my dry suit. I do the same w/ the light cord and just pull out what I need. If it were straight the cord routing would be weird.

I would mount it on my butt as intended if my heater cord was about 3" longer.

 

[chthonicly]

I dive sidemount 100% of the time and have a 90* Canister light w/ dual output (light+heater). I run my canister DIR style on my belt though and actually like the 90* there. I tuck the heater cord down under my waist belt and it's the perfect length to my dry suit. I do the same w/ the light cord and just pull out what I need. If it were straight the cord routing would be weird.

I would mount it on my butt as intended if my heater cord was about 3" longer.

How do you have enough space on your belt in sidemount for this? I used the entire space forward of my rear drops to the center buckle for tank trimming, and something as big as a canister would a-frame me.

 

[InWay2Deep]

How do you have enough space on your belt in sidemount for this? I used the entire space forward of my rear drops to the center buckle for tank trimming, and something as big as a canister would a-frame me.

Good point, I dive CCR and steel tanks, so my tanks stay clipped to my drop d-rings. It does get in the way a bit when I have to carry a stage, but I try and drop that as soon as possible.

 

[chthonicly]

Good point, I dive CCR and steel tanks, so my tanks stay clipped to my drop d-rings. It does get in the way a bit when I have to carry a stage, but I try and drop that as soon as possible.

I see, yeah, makes sense. As you may imagine, I am an OC diver, usually with alu tanks -- though I've just started doing lp85s, and still, eventually, have to trim those as well.

 

[mr_v]

@jstotz - You can use a sidemount light in a backmount configuration. As you're in the Great Lakes, go with the largest capacity battery so that you can run heat. 6 degrees is good. Look for constant power output.

I dive backmount (CCR) and sidemout (OC) with an UWLD 40 light and a tall SM canister (90 degree bend). Most of my diving is cave with an annual Great Lakes splash.

Buy a light with a power switch and adjustable level controls on the light head from a company that can customize the cord length. I don't think you can do better than UWLD for multiple reasons, but you can try other folks who live and breathe advanced diving. Whatever you do, avoid Chinesium.

Ask the manufacturer about customizing the cord length for your sidemount setup. A knowledgeable customer service person will tell you how to measure the cord length. Send out the light and the measurements and you're done.

Sidemount setup will fit you well if you took the measurements correctly. For backmount, decide where you want to mount the light. You can mount the battery on the belt or the CCR can or on a 3L cylinder. The cord will go under an armpit. You can also mount the battery below the can if you have a stand, then the cord will be routed "sidemount" style.

If you have extra cord, store it so that it does not drag. Note, if the light has the power and output level controls on the light head, then you can place the battery anywhere.

And now the pitch. You want need UWLD because:

- You can get custom cord length
- The battery can does not have latches which won't rub (and potentially damage) other equipment
- The power and output controls are on the light head
- You get constant power output
- You get an ability to stack light and heater controls on the same battery
- You support an honest small business that is actively involved in cave diving community
- If you have questions or issues, Bobby, the CEO, will personally handle your matters
- Excellent product quality

Avoid Tecline. The company is in EU and the service logistics may be bothersome due to the recent geopolitical developments. Go local.

 

[halocline]

Lots of good advice on this thread, the only thing I would add is that I think it’s better to dive BM with a right angle gland than it is SM with a straight gland. The cord length is the main issue. I did some BM dives with a right angle gland mounted on my right hip and it was fine.

 

[tbone1004]

Question 1:
a. If you were going to do an even combination of sidemount and backmount tech diving, and only wanted to purchase one canister light, would you buy a light made for sidemount with a 90 degree cord attachment, or one with a standard straight cord attachment at the canister?

b. Is it possible to do either type of dive with either style attachment?


Question 2:
a. How important a selling point is it to you for your light to have adjustable power levels?

b. For the purposes of wrecks and caves, what do you think about a light that has a 10W 6 degree(7hr burn time) and/or 30W 120degree(2.5hr burn time), (1.5hr in combo mode), without adjustable power levels?


Notes: We're not interested in handheld primaries for purposes of this thread.

I have a pair of UWLD's with the big battery packs, both have 90* heads. One is dedicated for sidemount and has a much longer cord to work with that since I prefer to butt mount and am rather tall. If I use this for doubles I can route the cable up the channel between the tanks and it comes out over my left shoulder like it does for sidemount. This is obviously not DIR compatible, but since we no longer use our battery packs for ballast where they need to be ditchable, I do actually prefer this to the "traditional" way of dealing with light cables.

The second one is a normal length cord and I can use it for sidemount if I mount it were Edd does, but I do actually prefer the right angle for diving with doubles, especially with the taller can since it sends the cable out in the direction that it is going to go anyway. This is especially nice when you put the stack cap on for the heated vest controller which makes the package that much taller.

2a adjustable power is critical for light matching with your buddy. If you have the brighter light you have to be in the back for signaling safety, if you want to be up front you have to be able to turn it down.

2b I would not use a 120* light head in wrecks, way too much backscatter.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Well love orcatorch or hate them I'll throw out a shameless plug that I can get them for about 20% off shipped to your door. $460 shipped for D630 as of today (prices are a little volatile in the last few months, lol).

I dive a D630, fits all my needs. I have a buddy that has one that is far more advanced than me.. he's been to 400' with his and 4 years in its still going strong.