Swift and Aqualung Transmitter

[tursiops]

One correction. The Swift actually has a different FCC ID. An FCC report indicates it is 2AO24-17001, not MH8A. They are still compatible, though.

Thanks for this; I just learned something wonderfully obscure:
MH8 is FCC ID for PPS; A is the PPS transmitter.
2AO24 is FCC ID for Shearwater; 17001 is the SWIFT.

 

[stuartv]

Not really a "special tool", just the tiny hex key wrench included with each swift. (1.5 mm IIRC). it just goes in the case wherever the Swift goes. Admittedly, not as handy as a coin, but last time I needed to open the Perdix, I didin't have a coin, and seemed that coins didn't have much value in the local currency wherever I was so they just didn't use them. So I now have a "special tool" coin that has to go with me along with the wee tiny hex head.

A 1.5mm hex wrench qualifies as a "special tool", to me. They are not commonly found. None of my scuba mutli-tools have one on them. Very different than just needing a coin or a big slotted screwdriver or the back of a knife blade.

Also, I don't remove my transmitters from my reg sets, ever. In other words, I don't put them in their case. So, the case is usually not likely to be near at hand when I need to change a battery.

Not to say that I can't work something out to be reasonably sure the tool is available when I need it. It's just not as easy as dealing with the old style. Not to mention the chances of losing one of those tiny screws versus losing the old style cap. I would really hate it if I had to change the battery on a Swift on a pitching boat.

For that matter, with the Swift screwed into a HP port, can I get to all the screws to remove them without first removing the Swift from the 1st stage? If not, then that means I need to carry the thin 11/16" wrench also? For removing the Swift from the 1st stage?

 

[tursiops]

For that matter, with the Swift screwed into a HP port, can I get to all the screws to remove them without first removing the Swift from the 1st stage? If not, then that means I need to carry the thin 11/16" wrench also? For removing the Swift from the 1st stage?

In general, No. Thus, Yes and Yes.

 

[Belzelbub]

Also, I don't remove my transmitters from my reg sets, ever. In other words, I don't put them in their case. So, the case is usually not likely to be near at hand when I need to change a battery.

I hear you. I remove my transmitters from my reg sets only when I take them in for service. It's probably not necessary, as my shop is pretty careful, and familiar with transmitters. So unlikely to damage them, but they don't need it, and I do maintenance (battery, o-ring changes) on my transmitters while my regs are at the shop.

Not to say that I can't work something out to be reasonably sure the tool is available when I need it. It's just not as easy as dealing with the old style. Not to mention the chances of losing one of those tiny screws versus losing the old style cap. I would really hate it if I had to change the battery on a Swift on a pitching boat.

For that matter, with the Swift screwed into a HP port, can I get to all the screws to remove them without first removing the Swift from the 1st stage? If not, then that means I need to carry the thin 11/16" wrench also? For removing the Swift from the 1st stage?

Agreed. Definitely wouldn't want to remove those tiny screws on a pitching boat. One of the other advertised benefits of the swift is that you can use the Swift body to tighten or remove from the HP port. So, you wouldn't need the 11/16" wrench.

I do have one in my SAD kit, though. Used more often on other people's regs on-site than my own.

I do understand the reasoning behind the Swift. However, I don't see myself moving from my Oceanic transmitters to the Swift any time soon. If the Oceanics die, I'll send them in along with $120 for a replacement. I currently have 3 of these, but that's for 3 divers, so the prospect of a collision is extremely remote.

 

[OMyMyOHellYes]

For that matter, with the Swift screwed into a HP port, can I get to all the screws to remove them without first removing the Swift from the 1st stage? If not, then that means I need to carry the thin 11/16" wrench also? For removing the Swift from the 1st stage?

Swifts are usually not installed using a wrench - just tightly hand tight. Heck, I know people that just run their hoses hand tight into the reg. And for the most part, really all they need.

 

[Dutch-Diver]

The MH8A Transmitters seems to use 3V CR2 batteries.
Does anyone ever tried the 3.6V (1/2AA or 14250) batteries
They have a far greather capacity of 1200mAh compared to the CR2 with 800mAh
Question: can it handle the higher voltage of 0.6 Volt

 

[stuartv]

My MH8A transmitters generally last at least 2 or 3 years before needing to be changed.

Why mess with anything other than the recommended battery in such a case?

 

[Mario007]

Or, you can buy an Apeks PPS manufactured MH8A transmitter for $429, what? Are people stupid? Maybe this is part of the new Aqualung Group reorganization plan?

View attachment 791943

I have one of these and one swift the swift works fine this one say no Comms
Anyone can help me fixing this issue?

 

[Belzelbub]

I have one of these and one swift the swift works fine this one say no Comms
Anyone can help me fixing this issue?

Step 1. Double check that the SN is entered correctly. If that is confirmed, go to step 2.

Step 2. Try to reset the transmitter. Remove the battery and bridge the contacts with a conductor. By this I mean touch something to the contact at the bottom and the one along the side at the same time. Hold for a few seconds, and reinstall the battery. If it still doesn’t work, go to step 3.

Step 3. If it is an Oceanic branded transmitter (BM serial number prefix), start a service/RMA ticket with Huish. Send yours in, pay the service fee, and wait for your factory refurbished transmitter to arrive. It will have a different SN, so you’ll need to enter that in. If not Oceanic branded, this step will most likely not work.

 

[Mario007]

Step 1. Double check that the SN is entered correctly. If that is confirmed, go to step 2.

Yes Double Checked


Step 2. Try to reset the transmitter. Remove the battery and bridge the contacts with a conductor. By this I mean touch something to the contact at the bottom and the one along the side at the same time. Hold for a few seconds, and reinstall the battery. If it still doesn’t work, go to step 3.

i will try now

Step 3. If it is an Oceanic branded transmitter (BM serial number prefix), start a service/RMA ticket with Huish. Send yours in, pay the service fee, and wait for your factory refurbished transmitter to arrive. It will have a different SN, so you’ll need to enter that in. If not Oceanic branded, this step will most likely not work.

is apeks transmiter