Steel Tank Exterior (can it be redone)

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I never worried, I wear my worn equipment proudly. Rinse them, some vinegar or even naval jelly. I wouldn't get overly concerned
 
I have two Faber (white)....What have others done, if anything?
Been there..... Done that.....

BEFORE & AFTER......3 LP steels

Steps.......
I cleaned/rebuilt all valve insides-seats, bursts, o-rings, etc.
Dustless cold water soda blast rusted outsides to bare metal.
Too many Zinc primer recoats w/multiple sandings.
Automotive 2 part epoxy gray paint, long cure time.
Automotive 2 part epoxy clear coat, long cure time .
Hydros, tumbles, vips, 36% fills.
40hrs of self labor (sanding & re-primer sucks).
$500 in just materials &services.
Rushed it and clear had runs, not cured for 7 days so defects too.

Would I do it again? NO WAY.
This seemed so easy, but it's a 1000 paper cuts in reality.
It's more cost effective to buy new tanks to use for
15 more yrs and get new-born hydro's.



scuba_tanks_painted.JPG
scuba_tanks_rusted.JPG
 
I had 4 of my old Fabers corn cob blasted then 4 coats of ZR cold galvanize spray paint. Works great. And yes I had them hydroed after blasting them.
 
If you want aesthetics, you clean off the whole tank and have it professionally sprayed or powder coated, or apply an epoxy or urethane paint to it. As long as the top is taped off to prevent contamination, and the tank is not heated, it is just "a paint job" that any body shop or other coatings supply can do, or you can DIY.
You can actually heat a steel tank quite a bit with no issues. Exactly how much I'm not sure off-hand and depends on the alloy, but it's not hypersensitive to heat. But you'd want to get the data on that first if someone proposes a heat cured finish.
 
steel tank wise i think it is keep it under 450 drgrees and it is ok. AL is if i rememnber 175 or 200. Depending on the vis guy they may or may not accept, let alone pass a re-painted tank The indicators of tank problems are hid when repainted, such as nicks gouges rust spots. From an inspectors view there may have been a 12" gouge 200/1000 deep and it will not show because it was bondo'ed in prior to repainting. Just something to think about. Stripping and repainting with a clear coat is not so bad.
 
You can actually heat a steel tank quite a bit with no issues. Exactly how much I'm not sure off-hand and depends on the alloy, but it's not hypersensitive to heat. But you'd want to get the data on that first if someone proposes a heat cured finish.
According to PSI/PCI tank inspection rules, no heat-cured paints can be used. If they are, the inspector has to condemn the tanks.
 
According to PSI/PCI tank inspection rules, no heat-cured paints can be used. If they are, the inspector has to condemn the tanks.

How does the inspector know it's a heat-cured paint? If the inspector is depending on the owner for the information he's probably not going to get.
 
After removing rust you can touch up with metal primer and metal paint but make sure it’s clean (no oils or dust, and dry, even slightly warm, like on a warm dry day, so you are not sealing in moisture. Paints expand/contract differently and so you need one rated for metal.
 
Powder coating is heat cured paint

Thanks, my painting experience starts and stops at the spray can.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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