Steel or aluminum tank?

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Hi!

I'm going to be switching to a BP/W in the near future, and I've been thinking about getting a steel tank, instead of the aluminum one I have...

This may seem like a silly question, but which is better? I use a wetsuit, 'cause I'm just too darn broke to buy a drysuit LOL

If you're diving a wetsuit, you might want to consider AL tanks (and maybe plate) along with some ditchable weight, so you still have the ability to surface if you lose your wing (big hole, etc) at depth, where your wetsuit will also have lost most of it's buoyancy.

It would really suck to be 20+ pounds negative @ 100' and not be able to surface.

One of the advantages of a drysuit is that it offers redundant buoyancy. In fact, if money is an issue, I'd probably suggest buying a good used drysuit, the selecting your BP and tanks accordingly. You'll be warmer and able to surface in case of a wing failure.

Terry
 
Or use a double wing, or just carry a lift bag . . . but redundant buoyancy is a good idea!

(I have a story about an instructor I know having to walk out of the lake due to a catastrophic dry suit failure . ..)
 
FWIW, with a 5/4 Pinnacle wetsuit, LP 85, and SS plate, I carry 6 lb in XSScuba pockets on my waist belt in fresh water. (5'8", 150 lb.)
 
I would not bother with steel unless you want to go with something like an HP 100 for extra capacity. There are lots of ways to get weight off the belt without diving steel.

You can purchase a Hammerhead SS backplate, and a SS STA, and have close to 12lbs of weight. Other BP's offer similar weighting. DSS has weight plates. You likely don't want 12lbs in your plate unless you go dry, and then you may.

I'd get a neutral AL80 in a tank that size. Steel is more difficult to maintain as it is more subject to corrosion. AL tanks are much less expensive, and less subject to corrosion.

The neutral AL80 is very similar to steel from a buoyancy standpoint, and is neutral when empty, so still slightly negative with 500psi. They are not that much more expensive than a standard AL80, and if I purchase a new tank, that is what I'm planning on. In fact, I'm thinking of picking up two for a doubles setup.
 
Below is a link to a tank specification chart:

Scuba Cylinder Specification Chart from Huron Scuba, Ann Arbor Michigan

I would approach it as a systems issue as all the pieces form a whole and the whole has to be optimized with the rest of your configuration and with the diving you will be doing.

An AL plate on average is 2 lbs negative while a stainless steel plate is about 6 lbs negative.

Aluminum and steel tanks vary according to the chart.

Ditchable weight has always been highly desired in recreational diving with the smei-flawed idea that you could ditch it at depth to get positive bouyancy. In reality there is little need for that and in the real world the only real use for ditchable weight is to drop it on the surface for a diver in distress.

For any kind of technical diving, ditchable weight is not an option as you do not have the option of a direct ascent anyway either due to a hard overhead (cave, wreck, ice, etc) or soft overhead (decompression obligation) and the last thing you want is to lose a weightbelt.

One other weight option when you get to doubles is a V weight that rides in between the tanks under the bands where it is not prone to snagging on anything. A similar single tank option is a weighted single tank adapter. So in that regard, being a little light is not a serious problem as it can be cured, but being overweighted with a stainless plate in a thin wetsuit is harder to fix. IN reality, AL plates are cheap while SS plates cost about 3-4 times more and many technical divers I known own both anyway.

If you have cavern and intro to cave or any other type of technical diving in your future, it's a good idea to add the weight you need in the form of a plate and tank with the goal of being neutrally bouyant at 10-15 ft with a normal lung volume, no air in the wing or dry suit and 500 psi in the tank(s).

Tank wise, I like the exempt X, E and FX series tanks from Worthington, PST and Faber. An X7-100 for example is only about a pound heavier than an AL80 but is -1 lbs bouyant when empty compared to +4 for an AL 80, so you have a tank that is 1 lb heavier but you can carry 5 lbs less lead for a 4 pound net loss in weight you have to carry up the ladder at the end of a dive - the extra 23 cu ft of air in the 100 cu ft tank is a free bonus.

Personally, a neutral 80 would be the last tank I'd buy. A neutral 80 in comparision weighs about 1 pound more than the E or X series 100, is not much less expensive (maybe $225 compared to $250-$275) and is 1 pound more bouyant than the steel tank and you lose 23 cu feet in comparision to a 100 cu ft tank. And if you go the technical route, the bouyancy traits of a regular (and less expensive) AL80 make it more desireable as a stage or deco bottle.

AL tanks do not present problems with flash rust with hydro testing, O2 cleaning etc, and in that regard are easier to maintain, but galvanized steel tanks have a history of being extremely durable and last longer than divers (50 years is not unreasonable to expect). AL tanks for the most part do not have the same staying power. And in general, AL tanks are large and heavy for their capacity and because of that 100 cu ft tends to be the limit in Al tank capacity - at an AL 100 is a very large and very heavy tank compared to a X or E series 100.

You also have Lp versus HP and 3442 psi options in steel tanks. LP tanks are popular with cave divers as in north florida the shops will fill them to 3500 psi anyway. But...their rated pressure is at 2640 psi (2400 psis service pressure plus 10%) and for a given rated volume they are heavier and larger than a 3442 psi tank.

When you compare them, you find there is not much difference when similar size and weight steel tanks are filled to similar pressures:
PST 104 2400 +10% 106.2 cu ft, 8" diameter 26.88" tall, 46.4 lbs, bouyancy -3.3 lbs empty
(140 cu ft at 3500 psi)
PST E8-130 3442 PSI 130cu ft, 8" diamter, 26.12" tall, 43lbs, -1 bouyancy when empty
E8-149 3442 PSI 149cu ft, 8" diamter, 29.37" tall, 47.5, lbs, -1.7 bouyancy when empty

So unless you live in north florida and can reliably get 3500 psi fills in your 2400 psi steel tanks, the 3442 psi exempt/special permit tanks are probably a better option as you will get the full rated volume in a tank the same size as an LP tank with a much smaller rated volume.
 
One of the other things that you may want to look at is that manufacturers are starting to produce high pressure 3442 Aluminum tanks, i believe they come in like 63 cuft, 74 cuft and 90 cuft. They are more negatively bouyant than the standard aluminums but not the steels. They will probly be approximately in between the price of regular aluminum tanks and the price of HP steel tanks. Im not sure when they are going to come out but it should be soon.
 
Personally, a neutral 80 would be the last tank I'd buy. A neutral 80 in comparision weighs about 1 pound more than the E or X series 100, is not much less expensive (maybe $225 compared to $250-$275) and is 1 pound more bouyant than the steel tank and you lose 23 cu feet in comparision to a 100 cu ft tank. And if you go the technical route, the bouyancy traits of a regular (and less expensive) AL80 make it more desireable as a stage or deco bottle.

A neutral AL80 runs $175 at ScubaToys. An E or X series Steel 100 runs $345.

A neutral AL80 seems to be the cat's meow if one wants to dive an AL80, and drop a couple lbs.

So why is a neutral AL80 more desirable as a stage bottle? I guess having a more buoyant stage is desirable, but I was not suggesting this as a stage bottle.

So why would one purchase an AL80 over a neutral AL80 as a primary tank, especially in 80lbs doubles? The capacity of HP steel is an advantage for buoyancy and size, but why is a neutral AL less advantageous in the 80lbs capacity other than size?
 
Keep in mind that just getting rid of the LadyHawk and getting a bp/w is going to drop some of that 14 pounds you're using now. Less fabric means less buoyancy. You can also get channel weights to give you more flexibility in your diving. Next time you're down in the panhandle, we'll let you try out an AL bp, SS bp, and a steel 95. This should give you some idea of what to do without having to spend the money first.
 
Sweet! Thank you so much :D
 
A neutral AL80 runs $175 at ScubaToys. An E or X series Steel 100 runs $345.

The Faber (Blue Steel) FX-100 is on sale for $249 at Divers Direct right now. comes with a din/yoke convertible valve.

I'd much rather put an extra $75 on each tank and have the steel HP 100 tank over an 'neutered' AL80. :D
 

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