So do you spend $300 or $800?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Perhaps you could just list the main reason like Scubaboard sponsors don't pay for advertisements for USED scuba gear. I'd sure like to hear more about the other reasons you foisted upon your members like materials, durability, and ease of maintenance. Could you explain that crap using the el cheapo Scubapro Mk2/R190 as the baseline?

Why are you such a jackass? Maybe you can point to the apeks ad? Or the scubapro ad? I dive like every freakin day, and use what I want. If you want to question my integrity, perhaps you should actually know me?
 
Here are some more videos that may be of interest. The Science Channels' How Its Made series did one at Oceanic. My DVR show it as #284, but I don’t know if it is on the Web.

Deconstructed: Scuba Gear : Video : Science Channel

All of these videos provide simplified illustrations of how different regulators function.

YouTube - How its work - Scuba Dive Regulator 2nd Stage

How its work - Scuba Dive Regulator Unbalanced Piston
YouTube - How its work - Scuba Dive Regulator Unbalanced Piston

YouTube - How its work - Scuba Dive Regulators Balanced Diaphragm

This one is a little misleading because it shows video of the discontinued Oceanic Omega, but illustrates a tilt-valve, which it does not use. The Omega is one of my personal favorite second stages.
YouTube - How its work - Scuba Dive Regulators Pilot Valve 2nd Stage
 
I should also say that after reading about the benefits of Nitrox, I plan on getting certified in this and using it in the future. (Just maybe not before my next dive trip)

Do I need to make sure my regulator is expandable for Nitrox? Or is there no difference for this?
 
I should also say that after reading about the benefits of Nitrox, I plan on getting certified in this and using it in the future. (Just maybe not before my next dive trip)

Do I need to make sure my regulator is expandable for Nitrox? Or is there no difference for this?

You would probably be hard pressed to find a new regulator that isn't rated for 40% O2, the generally accepted threshold where oxygen cleaning is considered unnecessary.
 
You would probably be hard pressed to find a new regulator that isn't rated for 40% O2, the generally accepted threshold where oxygen cleaning is considered unnecessary.

So for a newbie that means all new regulators will accept Nitrox with no expandable piece need or anything needed? Its all the same? :)
 
So for a newbie that means all new regulators will accept Nitrox with no expandable piece need or anything needed? Its all the same? :)

All current regulators, "out of the box", can be used with "recreational nitrox" (up to 40%). Beyond that level, they need to be "oxygen cleaned" (special o-rings, lubricant).

Best wishes.
 
Why are you such a jackass? Maybe you can point to the apeks ad? Or the scubapro ad? I dive like every freakin day, and use what I want. If you want to question my integrity, perhaps you should actually know me?

I have found over the years that being a jackass when people spout BS tends to reduce their tendency to openly and freely continue that behavior.

I'm still interested in hearing from such an experienced diver how you need to spend $800 to obtain quality materials, durability, and ease of maintenance that can not be had for $300.
 
Without disrespecting any of the cheap regulators, I think making adjustments, wob, servicing, durability, and reliability of something like my mk25 or xtx100 or tech3 or kirby morgan helmet is far superior to that of the less expensive, made with cheaper material regulators. If you don't understand that, then I can't help you. I didn't say that a cheap chump like you can't buy an ebay reg, and recondition it for less than $300. I was talking about new product.

I see you specifically you, attempt to discredit my opinion all the time because I sell ads for SB. Apparently you think that allows sponsors to buy my opinion? Well I say to the narrow minded like yourself. You are wrong.
 
I have found over the years that being a jackass when people spout BS tends to reduce their tendency to openly and freely continue that behavior....

Although I agree that this is generally true, I don't believe HowardE gave you enough info to surmise he was spouting BS, so your 0 to jack ass speed could use the brakes. He did say he was posting with a phone, not a computer.

...

I'm still interested in hearing from such an experienced diver how you need to spend $800 to obtain quality materials, durability, and ease of maintenance that can not be had for $300.

If someone plans to keep a reg set for a long time, has their regs serviced routinely and gets a LDS to do it, they may come out cheaper in the long run spending a bit more for equipment with a lifetime warranty (free parts), higher end materials that have a longer serviceable life (metal vs. plastic), etc.

Maybe annual service, lifetime warranties, etc. are just LDS kool-aid , but many divers are sold on that process and quite frankly it may keep some of them alive longer.
 
....If someone plans to keep a reg set for a long time, has their regs serviced routinely and gets a LDS to do it, they may come out cheaper in the long run spending a bit more for equipment with a lifetime warranty (free parts), higher end materials that have a longer serviceable life (metal vs. plastic), etc.

Maybe annual service, lifetime warranties, etc. are just LDS kool-aid , but many divers are sold on that process and quite frankly it may keep some of them alive longer.

I don't think metal vs plastic service life is the issue. The O-rings are still the gating factor and plastic has less of a corrosion issue. The metal parts may have better cold-water performance characteristics and may be stronger to withstand severe abuse better.

Personally, I keep with the low end gear. Being an average diver, I can barely tell the difference between my $200 reg and my friends $600 reg and am certain that the simple design of my regs poses no reliability issue.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom